k20a3 bashing
Originally Posted by diskreet
ading drive by wire to a car not so equipped is ALOT of money!
You need new pedal assembly, wiring to pedal and all the extra electronics, new throttle body, not to mention the fact that the electonic for the throttle might go through other parts like the ECU.
You need new pedal assembly, wiring to pedal and all the extra electronics, new throttle body, not to mention the fact that the electonic for the throttle might go through other parts like the ECU.
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see what i dont get is why everyones bashing the a3 though. it has lower hp figures and its not as good as any of the other k series motors but still, it has potential. but there are also alot of pro's that counter all the con's. i just hate seeing threads about swaps and all people say the same thing "get a k20a, a2, k24a4, etc." no one ever mentions a a3 swap.
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Yeah, I know how you feel. I like the a3, it's what I want... But it's funny going to ephatch.com and seeing how much everyone hates the a3 there. I think the main problem here is that kids on 7thgen (not all but alot) just see HP numbers and go, oh that ones better or that ones worse, when you need to look at the engine as a whole.
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I love the a3, someone on clubrsx has one with cams that is making 200hp. Also, putting an a2 head on an a3 doesn't net you any HP because the first time you try and rev it to 8 grand with a stock a3 bottom end a rod is going through the side of the block. The a2 and a bottom end is built way better than the a3 (the former's rods supposedly being able to handle 9K overrevs without breaking, just not repeatedly
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Considering there are people on ephatch with the a3 and kpro revving to 8600 LOL. Yes, it MAY throw a rod, but it wont happen the first time you do it. Then again right as I type this it probably will.
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I'm going towards the a3 because of
A) Boost *smacks head*
B) They go for dirt cheap since no one wants them, practically all of them around here for EVERYTHING are going for a little under or a little over 1k
A) Boost *smacks head*
B) They go for dirt cheap since no one wants them, practically all of them around here for EVERYTHING are going for a little under or a little over 1k
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i want an a3 hell 1k for the motor and tranny, 160hp is better than my 127hp, and if i really wanted i got a honda tuning explaining how to turn the a3 5speed into a 6speed usings parts from a a2 tranny. so yeah, i would do an a3
Just get the A3, I'd boost the fawk outa that b*tch. I gotta homeboy over at ephatch who boosts up to 16lbs. on some of his 1/4 runs. I'm not saying it's safe, but I am saying it'll throw down some decent numbers.
If someone was wanting to legalize the engines wouldnt the a3 be waay easier? Would it be more cost efficient? But if you dont care about legalizing it and spending a lil more a2 would be a better choice. I want a a3 in mine, hopefully end of summer.
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Sup fellows, Was just reading and i thought i would drop a line. I have had my A3 swap for over a year and a half now, not to mention its boosted with the greddy kit and i have never had one problem out of it. The car pulls very nice and is a great platform to build on espicaly if you plan on boosting, I would not pay over 1500 bucks tough for one with the tranny, any thing over that is asking to much. And as far as swaping the head with and A2 head, well theres nothing to it my buddy did it on his ep hatch and it ran great, until he got behind on the payments and it got repoed. But anyways the A3 motor is a great motor, and i have been driveing the **** out of mine for a while now and no problems.
well once i get my car **** sorted out i'll show you what a boosted a3 can do. I've also heard a few guys on clubrsx rather have a boosted 5 speed then a 6 spd. anywaysa an a3 is cheaper but let me tell you first hand that boosting it will bring up the total price BIG time. lots of custom work went into getting the turbo kit done properly.
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Originally Posted by CIVIC X3
i know this might be off topic, but how much can the k20a3 all motor produce and k20a2 all motor produce?
stock:
A3=160hp
A2=190hp(i think)
Originally Posted by atl01
Or you can just buy a complete kit allready made for the motor.
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Originally Posted by kornsined
yeah you don't think i did that?
there's a lot of different issues since the kit is made for an rsx not a civic swap. i think cybernation might be the only to have a kit that is made for a swap.
Thats funny because a couple of post up i said i have the greddy kit on my A3 swapped into my 01 civic, Trust me the Greddy kit for the type S kit bolts right up to a A3. What kind of issues are you worried about?
Last edited by atl01; Mar 23, 2006 at 03:39 PM.
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Hmmm, so if you got an a3, all setup and boosted, and then swapped to an a2 motor, it wouldent need any modding the the actual turbo system? lol
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On a side note, I want to thank you guys for keeping this thread informative and not having an all out stupid flaming war. Thanks for being mature about this =)
Originally Posted by CIVIC X3
i know this might be off topic, but how much can the k20a3 all motor produce and k20a2 all motor produce?
Originally Posted by chunky
Please keep in mind that the map I used to obtain these dynos is a very very rough calibration. There is more power to be had. How much? I'm not sure, so don't ask. The base map that will ship with the cams will have a much smoother powerband and possibly greater peak numbers. I also expect that fresher motors will make better numbers as the test motor has 114,000+ miles. :mtongue:
Graphs are SAE standardized with level 5 smoothing.
right click save-as for video


Graphs are SAE standardized with level 5 smoothing.
right click save-as for video


On a side note, I want to thank you guys for keeping this thread informative and not having an all out stupid flaming war. Thanks for being mature about this =)
Last edited by TheSmuggler; Mar 23, 2006 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Originally Posted by atl01
Thats funny because a couple of post up i said i have the greddy kit on my A3 swapped into my 01 civic, Trust me the Greddy kit for the type S kit bolts right up to a A3. What kind of issues are you worried about?
actually i'll list some things:
1. intercooler requires the removal of the front rebar - some people would not be able to live with this since it effects your safety in case of a frontal collision. you have to get it reinforced but it won't be the same as stock.
2. upper rad hose doesn't fit dur to intercooler piping - a replacement hose needs to be found
3. custom a/c line need to be made in order to have a/c
4. p/s hose (which is an exspensive hose) needs to be modified to fit past turbo
5. cruise control box and other wiring needs to be heat wraped to be protected from the turbo's heat
6. washer bottle needs a smaller replacment
7. coolant tank needs to be relocated
8. front bumper/front lip needs cutting due to intercooler piping
9. oil lines need to be protected or steel braided lines used due to greddy's shitty lines
10. oil pan bung should be replaced with getting the oil pan tapped
11. kpro/ecu loaction under dash had to be modifed so you could actually plug in the usb cable to tune it without unscrewing the whole ecu out.
there's other things but this is just off of the top of my head. some may not be necessary but i'd rather be safe then sorry.
oh and keep in mind, form what my shop told me there are a little bit of diferences between the 01-03 civics then the 04-05 civics.
Last edited by kornsined; Mar 23, 2006 at 08:38 PM.
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Originally Posted by TheSmuggler
^Link for the article?
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[QUOTE=kornsined]
actually i'll list some things:
1. intercooler requires the removal of the front rebar - some people would not be able to live with this since it effects your safety in case of a frontal collision. you have to get it reinforced but it won't be the same as stock.
2. upper rad hose doesn't fit dur to intercooler piping - a replacement hose needs to be found
3. custom a/c line need to be made in order to have a/c
4. p/s hose (which is an exspensive hose) needs to be modified to fit past turbo
5. cruise control box and other wiring needs to be heat wraped to be protected from the turbo's heat
6. washer bottle needs a smaller replacment
7. coolant tank needs to be relocated
8. front bumper/front lip needs cutting due to intercooler piping
9. oil lines need to be protected or steel braided lines used due to greddy's shitty lines
10. oil pan bung should be replaced with getting the oil pan tapped
11. kpro/ecu loaction under dash had to be modifed so you could actually plug in the usb cable to tune it without unscrewing the whole ecu out.
there's other things but this is just off of the top of my head. some may not be necessary but i'd rather be safe then sorry.
1. The intercooler kit from greddy wont work anyways because the pipes are totaly bent in the wrong direction for it the work, I used a intercooler off ebeay, and i also didnt remove my bumper.
2. This one is really funny because the radiator hoes is not even near the turbo becuse the turbo sits on the backside of the motor agaisnt the firewall.
3. I would know because when i did the swap i didnt care about curse control.
4. Same as above about the washer bottle.
5. I do agree with you about greddy shitty oil lines but thats not a fitment issue??
6.Why whats wrong with greddy oil pan bung, i think it works great, all though it should of been placed up higher on the oil pan.
5. My K-pro fit fine and i leave my usb cable allways hooke up to the K-pro u just roll the cable up and put in the glove box.
6. I dont have ac so i dont know about that either.
All im trying to do is help you and tell you from past experience. Take it for what is worth or dont take it at all.
actually i'll list some things:
1. intercooler requires the removal of the front rebar - some people would not be able to live with this since it effects your safety in case of a frontal collision. you have to get it reinforced but it won't be the same as stock.
2. upper rad hose doesn't fit dur to intercooler piping - a replacement hose needs to be found
3. custom a/c line need to be made in order to have a/c
4. p/s hose (which is an exspensive hose) needs to be modified to fit past turbo
5. cruise control box and other wiring needs to be heat wraped to be protected from the turbo's heat
6. washer bottle needs a smaller replacment
7. coolant tank needs to be relocated
8. front bumper/front lip needs cutting due to intercooler piping
9. oil lines need to be protected or steel braided lines used due to greddy's shitty lines
10. oil pan bung should be replaced with getting the oil pan tapped
11. kpro/ecu loaction under dash had to be modifed so you could actually plug in the usb cable to tune it without unscrewing the whole ecu out.
there's other things but this is just off of the top of my head. some may not be necessary but i'd rather be safe then sorry.
1. The intercooler kit from greddy wont work anyways because the pipes are totaly bent in the wrong direction for it the work, I used a intercooler off ebeay, and i also didnt remove my bumper.
2. This one is really funny because the radiator hoes is not even near the turbo becuse the turbo sits on the backside of the motor agaisnt the firewall.
3. I would know because when i did the swap i didnt care about curse control.
4. Same as above about the washer bottle.
5. I do agree with you about greddy shitty oil lines but thats not a fitment issue??
6.Why whats wrong with greddy oil pan bung, i think it works great, all though it should of been placed up higher on the oil pan.
5. My K-pro fit fine and i leave my usb cable allways hooke up to the K-pro u just roll the cable up and put in the glove box.
6. I dont have ac so i dont know about that either.
All im trying to do is help you and tell you from past experience. Take it for what is worth or dont take it at all.
Last edited by atl01; Mar 24, 2006 at 07:17 AM.
Originally Posted by atl01
2. This one is really funny because the radiator hoes is not even near the turbo becuse the turbo sits on the backside of the motor agaisnt the firewall.
As for the bung, most people know that if you want the proper oil and want your seals to last that you should tap your oil pan. I'm getting sick and tired of arguing with people who don't know there ******* from a hole in the ground. It's clear that your not as familiar with your turbo kit and swap as you like to let on.

edit: here's some damn links and pics
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71451 - reason why greddy seals go bad
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70933 - Greddy's **** oil lines

this guy obviously didn't have an issue with the upper rad hose. although this is on an ep3 too.
Last edited by kornsined; Mar 24, 2006 at 12:07 PM.
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Whatever, do what you want i hope you dont eat with that mouth. plus arguing over internet is pointless. I would dig up pics and show u my set up but whats the point the only thing that seems to matter is what you say. So good luck with you swap and turbo or whatever your doing. peace.


