sneak peak of my new setup.....
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Originally Posted by turboengnr
it will be boosted soon enough.
I actually only have the stock head pipe and cat on there. Cat back is 2.5"
I actually only have the stock head pipe and cat on there. Cat back is 2.5"
What the hell are you doing?! Get that turbo back on there!
Do I need to go over there and show you how things are done?
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Originally Posted by Drk01Civic
What the hell are you doing?! Get that turbo back on there!
Do I need to go over there and show you how things are done?
Do I need to go over there and show you how things are done?


I will have the turbo on there soon enough. I have already done way more than my shoulder can take. Thats why im paying for it today and will probably be doing so for a while.
In december my buddy will be back from germany. Since he knows manifold design and knows how to cut the stainless, he is going to help me build it. He does the cutting, i do the welding.
But im in no rush. I am still waiting on my pistons. I FINALLY got the correct rods the other day. So now the head studs and pistons are all that i am waiting for.
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i havent found any downside to this manifold yet. It has more low end than before, and definately has more top end.
My wife describes it as my lx motor on a few pounds of boost.
My wife describes it as my lx motor on a few pounds of boost.
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it is definately not a direct bolt on. And i bet you that most shops will tell you that they wont do it.
The runners dont even line up. You have to cut the manifold in several spots and manipulate the runners in order to make them line up. Then you have to weld it all back together and port the inside smooth.
then you have to weld on the correct flange. And you have to have the correct angle on it or else you will be running into the coolant lines that go to your heater. And if you go too high, the injectors will hit the runners and wont fit.
Then you have to make an adaptor plate that bolts to the stock throttle body and weld it onto the manifold. And that has to be positioned correctly in order to clear everything. And you have to modify the full-throttle stop on the TB in order to make it clear the side of the manifold itself, or else the throttle body wont open.
Then you have to make a custom throttle cable bracket that holds both the throttle cable and the cruise control cable. (i was too tired to build one for the cruise control, but i will build it when the motor comes out.
Then you have to cut apart the stock wiring harness, isolate the wires for all the sensors you just relocated, and then tape it all back up and run the wires where they will not interfere with the throttle cable.
Then you have to cut the steel evap line that is connected to the fuel rail, and take off the evap port thats on the opposite end of the rail. And then you have to re-mount them somewhere else and re-run the lines with some other line (i used fuel line).
It is definately not a bolt on. And it is not something that you can just do off a whim because your buddies' sisters' boyfriend has a welder. It definately takes some precision with the cuts, careful planning and a LOT of welding.
The runners dont even line up. You have to cut the manifold in several spots and manipulate the runners in order to make them line up. Then you have to weld it all back together and port the inside smooth.
then you have to weld on the correct flange. And you have to have the correct angle on it or else you will be running into the coolant lines that go to your heater. And if you go too high, the injectors will hit the runners and wont fit.
Then you have to make an adaptor plate that bolts to the stock throttle body and weld it onto the manifold. And that has to be positioned correctly in order to clear everything. And you have to modify the full-throttle stop on the TB in order to make it clear the side of the manifold itself, or else the throttle body wont open.
Then you have to make a custom throttle cable bracket that holds both the throttle cable and the cruise control cable. (i was too tired to build one for the cruise control, but i will build it when the motor comes out.
Then you have to cut apart the stock wiring harness, isolate the wires for all the sensors you just relocated, and then tape it all back up and run the wires where they will not interfere with the throttle cable.
Then you have to cut the steel evap line that is connected to the fuel rail, and take off the evap port thats on the opposite end of the rail. And then you have to re-mount them somewhere else and re-run the lines with some other line (i used fuel line).
It is definately not a bolt on. And it is not something that you can just do off a whim because your buddies' sisters' boyfriend has a welder. It definately takes some precision with the cuts, careful planning and a LOT of welding.
Retired - SoCal FI Mod
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Originally Posted by nick95673
so what your saying is that you have the only one.
Originally Posted by Agent9
have you tried tiger balm?
someone should custom fit the AIR intake manifold... anyone have $$1500 to spend on it ? ;P
i saw that u wired up the butterflies to open when vtec engages.... how did u do that? what did u have to do with wiring.. n vacuum is what usually opens it right? if u could get back to me asap id really appreciate it. u can email me back at KennyB004@***.net er instant message me on aim at KennyB004
Kenny B
Kenny B
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the butterflies are opened by vaccum. But they have their own vaccum canister with a solenoid that opens whenever there is an electrical current present.
In the GSR, it opened these at a specific RPM point set by the ECU. Since our computer doesnt have the programming for the secondary butterflies, i simply took the 1 wire that controls the vtec solenoid and ran a branch off it to the solenoid that actuates the secondary butterflies.
Why do you need to know so quickly? Are you copying me?
In the GSR, it opened these at a specific RPM point set by the ECU. Since our computer doesnt have the programming for the secondary butterflies, i simply took the 1 wire that controls the vtec solenoid and ran a branch off it to the solenoid that actuates the secondary butterflies.
Why do you need to know so quickly? Are you copying me?
that is awesome man. thank u so much. i really appreciate it. ive also heard of people takin out the butterfly plates altogether... does that help nething? as far as i know, they stay closed at lower rpms so u have more torque n open at higher rpms fer more top end... is that true?
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yes thats true. Removing them would decrease the amount of torque on the low end, but the flow on the top end would be increase. So you would be giving up the whole point of modifying that manifold to fit to this car. I wanted this manifold for the drivability. The low end torque is great for driving around town, while the increased top end is awesome for the track.
Questron!?
Originally Posted by turboengnr
i have tips and tricks for just about everything to do with the entire drivetrain and ecu of this car. If you need any help, just ask.
I don't think I need to attempt a mod like this.
Even with a mechanic in one pocket, and a welder w/ 25 yrs exp.. lol.
Are the gains noticable ? i was told leave my intake manifold alone unless i should boost...I don't want to boost my civic (2k1 ex 5 spd cpe.)
I'm putting off until after the i get out of basic and training in air force...
I'm going to buy a 90-91 Hatchie paint it coke white, put some real mugen power on it and have a true sleeper w H22 or B series beast. N/A of course.
these honkies in mississippi don't know what jdm is.
they think short jimmy dale motors or some **** probably.




