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Pay and pay again. Get used to it with a forced induction car. IT WILL NICKLE AND DIME YOU TO DEATH.

You have to pay to play. Sorry bro. The only good thing is, if you purchase our kit, we include a mildly tuned map to get you started for 8 PSI. That saves some time & $$. This map was made over probably 15-20 hours of street driving.

 
Rep Power: 309

well i already bought the kit. do you guys sell this map? also do you have maps for other psi settings and how much?

 
Rep Power: 607

I have been running 8-10 psi daily 18 months now with the SF fuel system that so many ppl care to hate. I have hit 13 psi once and that **** was fast as hell.

I have a EX and a completely stock motor. If my motor goes.....i got a complete spare with 11,000 miles sitting in my garage waiting to be dropped in. When my motor goes......so does the modding. Back to stock for me.....no more wasting money on these SOHC's.

 
Rep Power: 309

does it just randomly hit 13 psi cus you dont hav a controller or did you turn it to that?
and did you ever get it tuned?

edit: also, do you beat the thing? cus i sometimes feel the need to just floor it till 7grand then maybe again in the next gear.

 
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20 months for what, u have all the part numbers there, its not going to take two years to make, i did a special custom order for the very first ones and it only took 6 months

 
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I have a hallman pro mbc......i was adjusting it and i turned it up too high.

No, i didn't get it tuned.....i had a emanage and type s injectors but i sold them b/c i needed money. I am just running the sf fuel system.

I beat my car sometimes.......but not too often. My car has 60,000 miles on it.......15,000 of them boosted and i am still on stock clutch

 
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was running my car at 13psi daily and it ran fine. But I did spend a lot of time tuning it for perfection. Now I just run 6psi cause I burned my rings and am loosing comp. in one cyl. Was my fault though. Didnt adjust for the differnt fuel form Germany to Cali. Doh. Its all good though. Building my 2nd motor now with all crower parts. Built for High boost. Cant wait to drop this baby in.

 
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Valvetrain is not cheap to upgrade, it gets quite expensive.

Do you understand that the head on the EX has absolutely NOTHING to do with the compression ratio? A c/r difference of .4 is not going to mean you can run 2 more psi of boost.

Think in terms of cyliinder pressure, not boost. It doesn't matter how much boost you run but how much air your turbo flows. One turbo may make 220 hp at 10 psi, whereas another may only make 180 hp.

The tune has alot to do with making things run properly, but at the same time, I think trying to make over 250 hp on a stock motor is as far as I would go. You can gain ~20-30 hp alone from tuning if you have a tuner that knows what he's doing.

And if you plan to build your motor, alot of the parts you probably got (depending on which kit) will not make the power your engine will be able to support.

 
Rep Power: 309

^ cylinder head has something to do with CR, why do you think that people mill there heads? to squeeze a lil higher CR into the motor. (and for a sure flat surface) but if the ex head has a smaller volume than the lx than it will make higher CR on the lx.

 
Rep Power: 350

The head does have something to do with cr but in the instance of the d17 motors, it's based on the rotating assembly, not the head, at least as far as the differences in compression go for the d17. It's not based on the head or the head's volume. They are both 1.7 engines. Combustion takes place in the combustion chamber, where the head meets the block, not inside the head. I know why people mill their heads, I've had heads milled before but as far as I'm concerned, sizing the piston to make your goals is smarter than trying to mill a head to get a higher cr.

 
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anybody ever thought of running a high comp. boost motor??? If u are going to build your motor for boost, why not put high comp. pistons in? Shure you will have to run less psi over all, and tuning will be harder, but in the end I think it would pay off with increased responce and broader power curve.

 
Rep Power: 309

i agree that its definately better to just get pistons than to mill down the head,
i thought you were saying that a head never matters for CR, not specifically for the d17

 
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what does driving a boosted car feel like? is it loud and more pull and increased acceleration?

 
Rep Power: 327

Fun and yes

 
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think about it this way: You're driving your civic, foot to the floor, whining out your motor, you hear another little whine start and it feels like someone has started pulling your car faster and then you start to grin from ear to ear.

 
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It feels like your on a runway taking off in an airplane not to fast at the start but then super fast. HAHAHAHA It also sounds like you have a huge intake sucking in all the air it can and the blow off valve sounds super sexy like if all your air in your tire just went out.

 
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so it's loud?

was wondering if there's someway to make it quieter so it can work on a sleeper setup

one more thing, i've been reading around and i've read that you gotta maintain your engine more or else the turbo will eventually wear it down....what specifically will happen to the engine? any parts to upgrade or add to prevent this?

 
Rep Power: 272

alot of your questions are in the faq's. it's really not all that loud. as far as maintenance, you gotta' change oil more frequently. (2000 - 2500 miles), according to Corky Bell's book, it will take 10,000 miles off a 100,000 mile motor.

 
Rep Power: 309

driving a boosted car is fun but having a non boosted car with the same hp is better because with a turbo, lets say on our car you have a 100hp engine and the turbo gives it 200. so your driving around and until the turbo kicks in youve only got 100 hp so youve got a delay, if it was naturally aspirated and made 200hp without a turbo youd always have that extra hp no matter what speed or anything.
its more detailed but this will get the point across.

although i havent driven a turbo civic yet, i drove an a4,supra,s4.

oh and yea extra maintenance. as for life of the engine, if you get a crappy tune itll destroy the engine cus it wont run good but you can have the opposite too.

 
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hmm.. i think i may have to disagree with you on that.. a n/a car with 200 hp car doesnt make 200 hp throughout the entire rpm range. same goes for a turbo civic, it doesnt make peak ammount of hp until a certain point in the powerband.

if you have a n/a car rated at 200 hp and a turbo car rated at 200 hp the turbo car will win.

 
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Yeah in some situations a narrow power band will make a n/a car less streetable than a turboed car. Some people even argue that the s2000 needs to be reved too high for daily driving. The generalization that any old n/a car with 200hp will loose to any turbo car with 200 hp is also false.

Basically all power has its draw backs. Engines that are powerful through a wide powerband use a lot of gas and take a lot of abuse, but are of course extremly fast. It really is about balance as well as setting up a goal then accomplishing that goal.

Oh yeah it is also about being smart and doing things the right way. When I say the right way well you have to talk to people with experiance and try to learn as much as possible to find the "right" way.

 
Rep Power: 309

yea i know, but i didnt feel like explaining all that to him as long as he gets the idea of turbo lag.


i disagree. and there are many things to take into consideration also.