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Old Jul 19, 2005
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act clutch..

aight i'm about to boost my car, and i'm swapping from an auto to a 5 speed. before you say i'm dumb.. it's only costing me $400-500 in parts and the labor to install is free.. so it's very much worth it. i figure i'll fxck up my clutch pretty quick.. so i wanna go ahead and get an act clutch, which is the best to get for a boosted civic?
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Old Jul 19, 2005
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Stage 2 extreme with extreme disc, no question about it.
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Old Jul 20, 2005
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ACT StreetLite flywheel also available for an additional $190

ACT ProLite flywheel also available for an additional $210

Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel also available for an additional $175


of those.. which flywheel would be best?
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Old Jul 20, 2005
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dont go too light, or else you will have some bogging problems.
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Old Jul 20, 2005
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which of those 3 i best though?
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Old Jul 20, 2005
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i say this one. this is what i have.

ACT StreetLite flywheel also available for an additional $190
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Old Jul 20, 2005
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I would recommend the Streetlite because that's what I run, but I haven't driven a 7thgen with the Prolite or Fidanza so I can't really compare. I am very pleased with the quality of all the ACT parts I installed on my car. They're all first rate.
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Old Jan 4, 2006
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just wondering, how's does an aftermarket clutch feel? i mean i'm very comfortable with my stock clutch but i was wondering how the ACT feels....

i tried my friends hatchback once that had an aftermarket clutch and that pedal was so hard to press and you had to gas right or else it would stall....lol

and then there's also my friend who had a co-worker that was a valet and crashed a porsche because the clutch pedal was so hard to manuever...
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Old Jan 4, 2006
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I have the exedy stage one and it is stiffer. sucks in traffic but your leg will get used to it...... unless your a girlymon
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Old Jan 5, 2006
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stick with the streetlite...I had the prolite and it lasted 6k miles when I was boosted. Yes i was driving the car hard, but when you turbo you'll do the same thing its addicting. But after the abuse and the extra torque the clutch and throwout bearing were done. Right now i have exedy organic and i love it.
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Old Jan 5, 2006
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I've been using an Action (not ACT) clutch 2MD 6 puck since I've been boosted. I have had zero problems with it and it doesn't chatter near as much as the ACT clutches do. My suggestion would be to go with that one.

In fact, my buddy with a 600 whp turbo gsr turned me onto them. He's had his longer than mine and it's still holding up with 600 at the wheels.
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Old Jan 5, 2006
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you also have the choice of the exedy stage 2
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Old Jan 5, 2006
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I have Exeedy Organic and it feels and grabs as stock. Its advertised for 70% stronger then stock. I like it and I have to agree that preassure on the pedal feels well above 70%.
My stock strted to slip at 8psi, but my exeedy spins tires in 1st, 2nd & 3rd now. Definately holds new tq!
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Old Jan 6, 2006
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I have the prolite flywheel, and love it. ALthough i cracked the slave cylinder in half and it left me stranded ontop of the over pass lol. But besides that its a great flywheel. The act clutch is an excelent product aswell. Its a must have for turbo operation. Buy it from dezod, he will get it to you fast and at a great price.


The clutch pedel will be stiffer thats for sure, but your leg will get use to it. You will like the extra pedal pressure.

Last edited by Jeff; Jan 6, 2006 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2006
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i run a exedy stage 1 with a stock flywheel. its been holding up to 246WHP @6-7PSI for 6 month with no problem. the clutch feels like a stock one too.
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Old Jan 11, 2006
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if you have an aftermarket clutch, do you need an aftermarket flywheel too? or is the stock flywheel okay?
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Old Jan 11, 2006
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stock is fine. Just make sure there arent any large heat checks or cracks. If there is any glazing, have the flywheel resurfaced.
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Old Mar 14, 2006
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i Got a (F1 RACING STAGE 2 with Carbon Kevlar Steel-Back disc clutch kit with up to 235 HP and 215 ft/lbs of torque and a 10.9 lbs Exedy clutch for 289.99 +23 shipping). You have to ask for them as a pair or talk to manager.

Gripforce.com at ebay.com
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Im using an exedy cerametallic sprung hub 3-puck.

And i am hoping to god that it can hold 365 ft/lbs of torque. If not, then im screwed.
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Man Mike you think your going to push out that much torque with your new setup. Thats a lot of torque for a SOHC.
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Our SOHC will never in its life see more than 300 lbs of torque even with a turbo at 20 psi.
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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get em mike!
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Originally Posted by CivicLX_Black
Our SOHC will never in its life see more than 300 lbs of torque even with a turbo at 20 psi.
yea. Thats why im running 30 psi.

If you want to insult me, it would probably be much easier to make fun of my face, or call my mom fat.

But you may be right, i probably wont ever see 300. It will probably go past it soo fast the dyno will have a void at the 300 mark since 300 tq cant be done on the dyno. It will jump from 299 to 301 just because YOU said it cant be done.
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Our crappy *** motor could not handel all that power. That why AEM car uses the NSX motor or something like that.

You statement "But you may be right, i probably wont ever see 300. It will probably go past it soo fast the dyno will have a void at the 300 mark since 300 tq cant be done on the dyno. It will jump from 299 to 301 just because YOU said it cant be done." is like saying

If you shave your head you get better aerodynamics or racing stips give you 10 hp at the wheel.
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Originally Posted by CivicLX_Black
Our crappy *** motor could not handel all that power. That why AEM car uses the NSX motor or something like that.

You statement "But you may be right, i probably wont ever see 300. It will probably go past it soo fast the dyno will have a void at the 300 mark since 300 tq cant be done on the dyno. It will jump from 299 to 301 just because YOU said it cant be done." is like saying

If you shave your head you get better aerodynamics or racing stips give you 10 hp at the wheel.

Dude stfu and read this...
Engine/Performance Modifications:
Ported EX cylinder head
Darton Sleeves
Modified STR Block Guard
Crower Rods
Custom Arias Pistons
Gapless seal rings
Honda main bearings
Custom rod bearongs
ARP D16z head studs
4 230 cc injectors
4 590 cc Injectors
Converted Return Fuel system
Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator
MSD high volume inline Fuel Pump
3/8" hard aluminum fuel feed line
Turbonetics t3/60-1 hybrid ball bearing turbo
Tial 40mm wastegate
Greddy Type-RS BOV
GSR Intake Manifold (trying to swap to yet another manifold)
DC header (YES!! A HEADER WITH A TURBO! OMFG!)
Stock Air Box
custom 3 inch Downpipe with electric cutout
custom 2.5" aluminum Intercooler Piping
custom Intercooler
2 1/2 inch exhaust with a 24 in resonator and a matrix muffler (its quiet as hell)
Greddy Emanage (All harnesses)
Exedy Cerametallic sprung hub 3-puck clutch

In fact you should read EVERY post that this guy has made. Then you might have enough sense to never post something so stupid eVAR again.

BAN HIM!
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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hey, lets add some pictures to it!!!































And yes, i am building this all myself in my garage. I can prove this because in the pictures above, you can see the side of my 56 chevy belair.

Heres some of the parts we put into that....








Also, i have written about half of the tuning and fabrication DIY's on this site. Most people didnt even know about fuel trims until i started helping people out. And along with the help of several other members on this site, i think we have made a huge dent in educating the masses, and weeding out the vermin.

go eat ****
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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Still..........the engine can't make more than 300 lbs of torque. Most of the parts very little torque but give a lot of HP.

The whole conversation is about torque.

I saw a dyno i downloaded with a B18 motor at 25 Psi and it made 745 HP and 325 lbs of torque. So it is almost impossible for a D17 to make more than 300 lbs of torque.
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Old Mar 15, 2006
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After reading all the stupid **** you've said CivicLX, you have just given me the worst headache in the world. READ FIRST THEN SPEAK YOU N00B! You don't have a clue about what your talking about!
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Old Mar 16, 2006
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YOU ARE A MORON. At the same horsepower level, all D series will make more torque than a B series. Why? Because horsepower is a mathematic derivative of torque.

To get horsepower, you take the formula (torque*RPM)/5250
That gives you horsepower. Soooo......

If you make 800 whp at 9000 RPM, you are making 466 ft lbs of torque.
If you make 800 whp at 7000 rpm, you are making 600 ft lbs of torque.

I have seen plenty of 400-600 whp single cams. Get outside your magazine world and actually do some real world research.

also, the block has next to nothing to do with power. All of the power is made in the displacement and the cylinder head. The b-series head is superior to the D series. But you can improve upon a D series head to flow better than a stock B series. And ive seen stock b series heads making 600-700 whp.

The bearing surfaces and the compression rings do add to power. The thinner the bearings and the thinner the rings, the less friction in the motor. That adds to more power from less parasitic loss. But then again, that is why i have a complete set of custom rod bearings, and a set of thin total-seal gapless compression rings. And that is also why i ported the cylinder head.

Also...

Here is a comparison with a D series and a B series. Look at the torque and power. The D series make a shitton more torque at a similar power level.

supercharged B18C1 on 8 psi


Turbod D17A2 on 10 psi


Last edited by turboengnr; Mar 16, 2006 at 12:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 16, 2006
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That guy prolly doesn't know how to read those graphs.
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