Rep Power: 327

I also notice on your timing map its based off of the cars map sensor not the greddy sensor? And Why all the fuel addition in the air flow map and not the injector map?

 
Rep Power: 317

i couldn't find a base map for the additional injection, only the airflow adjustment

 
Rep Power: 317

e-manage maps: http://gametrax.net/tuning.jpg

so i just got back from my 3 hour dyno experience. (164hp @ 7psi)

i am a bit frustrated. they couldn't get the car leaned out, they just made it run not so rich. the guy said he couldn't adjust the fuel pressure or something.. i was already having a bad morning so i can't remember the conversation exactly. he also said he was getting some slight pinging.

when he was done, i went out and test drove it.. seemed to run much better than it did before, no stalling or anything. i did hear the exhaust pop at one point though.

well i get close to home (40min drive), and within several seconds the gas pedal slowly stops responding, until my car just stays at idle regardless how much gas i give. i shut off the car for maybe 3 minutes, turn it back on, and it runs fine for another minute or so until the same thing happens. i think the engine is just getting so hot that the throttle doesn't want to do anything but chill.

i've really had it with trying to get this turbo to work nicely. i want to know if this is an option: if i reinstall my stock injectors (keep the return system at 45psi), leave my wastegate open and zero out my e-manage settings, then technically should the car run without these problems? (assuming they are led on due to fuel/boost) i really need this car to be my daily driver again and not having to worry about it breaking down. i don't want to remove the turbo and everything associated, one because i'm lazy, and two, when i'm ready to sell the car the buyer has turbo options

and if anyone want's to buy.. i'm willing to sell. i just want my TL.

 
Rep Power: 327

when it does the wont rev up routine, how much fuel pressure does it have?

 
Rep Power: 317

it stays at about 45psi

 
Rep Power: 0

hope it is working out better today, keep us updated

 
Rep Power: 328

Mex
Don't give up
Boosting is always a challenge and a learning lesson for everyone.
My suggestion is to get rid of the extra injectos run 4, and check all your connections for your e-manage.

 
Rep Power: 317

i'm only running 4 injectors, they're the RSX type-S injectors. you think i'll be fine with the stock injectors at 7psi, with the return fuel kit?

right now i'm trying to switch the MAP sensor wiring from the e-manage, so IN goes to the MAP sensor and out to the ECU.. is that how it should be with the MAP sensor?

 
Rep Power: 378

The rev limiter issue (83 mph max) should be a VTEC non-engagement issue. Happened to me. Thats the highest the engine will run in the last gear before hitting vtec

 
Rep Power: 317

that's interesting. i do have an EX, but i didn't want to bother trying to get the VTEC to work (i read so many people had problems), so i left out the 3 VTEC wires and didn't cut any of the stock VTEC wiring. any idea why it would still interfere?

 
Rep Power: 328

Sorry man I though you where running extra injectors.
I had the same issue with my car running rich even with stock injectors.
Turned out to be the e-manage.
I sold the one I had then 6 months later i bough OPTO's e-manage.
He installed it for me the way he had it on his LX ( mine is an lx)
That solved the problem.

So I'm sure it has to do with the e-manage
Also he instaled a Split Second EMS box a small computer that helps regulate fuel while crusing.
That realy help my car.
I don't know where he got this device but I'm sure you can searched it.

Also you can run with an FMU at lower boost and only use your e-manage to slighly lower your timing.

Thaty worked fine with my car for awhile under lower boost.

 
Rep Power: 317

well, another strange issue i'm having, i can't adjust the fuel pressure with the adjustment screw on the regulator.. whether it's all the way down or all the way up, it consistently stays at 45psi.

edit:
i just completed switching the MAP sensor wiring as stated, and the car still idles fine, so there's no way for me to know which way is correct. i did try driving it a bit, and as i accelerate the RPMs hesitate to rise once above 1500. then when it gets to around 3000 they stutter in and out justa little bit.

 
Rep Power: 328

Do you have a walbro intank pump?

 
Rep Power: 317

yeah it's walbro

 
Rep Power: 328

Where you able to adjust the pressure before?
Who's return system are you running?

 
Rep Power: 317

i actually can't recall having to adjust it.. it may have already been set at 45 when it was installed. it's SLPs return kit.. we did a good job with the install, so the only thing i can think of is maybe a defective part. however, the fuel pressure should be at 45psi, so wouldn't it not really matter since it shouldn't be adjusted anyway?

 
Rep Power: 328

Well the pressure needs to increase as you boost.
Is the regulators boost referencing connected?
Is the small hose that connects to vaccum.

I had a return system and still suffered from fuel starvation while boosting, till I build a reservoir and additional pump to keep up with my needs.
Although my set up is very differnt and I'm using 14psi.
I still think that your e-manage is the culpit of your problems.

 
Rep Power: 327

we actually disconnected the vaccum source on my regulator because i was getting WAAAAY too much fuel at WOT. I'm running straight 44psi all the time now, but only 7-8psi boost.

 
Rep Power: 378

Anyone have the "tools" kit that they can copy for me? I need that disc. Well, AND the cable too.

 
Rep Power: 317

ok, here's the latest. i went out and put my stock injectors back in and zeroed out all the e-manage maps. started the car up, idles perfect. revved it up in neutral, perfect! all the way up to the rev limiter. so i put it in drive, it idles perfectly, and when i begin to accelerate, right away the car hesitates, the rpms stutter and the car stalls. every time. but in neutral, i can rev it up as high as i want, sounds just like stock. any ideas?

here's the e-manage info i didn't touch / don't know how to modify:





are the airflow meter setting right and should they all be in use? (i never hooked up the VTM wire or cut any of the stock wires for that). what's the A.A.V value, and should that be zeroed out? should absolute pressure change be checked?

if anything doesn't look right, please let me know. at the moment i'm just trying to get my car to run like e-manage isn't installed, and i don't want to have to undo all the wiring just to accomplish that-- i figure there must be a way to disable the unit without unhooking it, if that's what's giving me my trouble.

also that throttle setting button on the 2nd window:



i just hit clear and ok when i zeroed everything out. is that something i have to set myself? i wonder if that could be causing the problem.

 
Rep Power: 0

Mex I hope you do know that if you still have the turbo on, and you are not adding fuel your going to run extremely lean by zeroing everything out and running stock injectors. The turbo will make boost no matter what when its on the car and you excelerate in gear. If you want to run stock take the turbo off and disconnect the main harness from the emanage. Soilder the 4 ignition wires back together along with the map sensor wire.

 
Rep Power: 327

First.....
The AAV value's should be zero...... i THINK these are the external dials on the e-manage? please someone correct me if im wrong



You should select additional injection map also, with this map it enables you to add fuel only under certain vacuum .boost conditions(assuming you have the boost sensor i forget if you do) but this wont help you for running with no boost......


On this window my settings are min = 0.47, max = 4.62, and yes its something you will need to set im pretty sure

 
Rep Power: 317

yeah i unhooked the wastegate before doing all this. i guess the only way to know for sure if it's the e-manage is to disconnect the harness and connect those wires back up.

i'm just wondering if any of those settings i've listed need to be adjusted. i did zero out the additional injection map already.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey mex

Look at that last post from Tfnaaf. The throttle setting you have .55 for the min. And .55 for the max. Its not adding any fuel when your on the throttle and letting in more air right?

So thats why it would stall and die in gear. Im not sure why it will let you rev in neutral but maybe its because there is no load on the engine. Maybe you should adjust that setting first.

 
Rep Power: 325

Mex, haven't been here in a while but... You definately need to recalibrate your TPS voltage on the support tool software. If it's hooked up properly it should be extreme low voltage with no throttle, and close to 5 at full throttle. Zero out your AAV values. You have the support tool to adjust fuel and those just mess it up. The settings I used were 4-8-E. You can choose that, regardless of VTEC or not, but under the maps you can check off, just do not check of VTEC and it won't make a difference.

That being said it worked a lot better for me. Hopefully it works out for you, good luck.

 
Rep Power: 0

so your car is not seeing boost now? If it is all hooked up, in neutral, your car wont see any boost. In any gear it will. I can rev all day in neutral and my car hits like 0hg I believe. In first, at half throttle I can hit 7psi like nothing (2500rpms)

 
Rep Power: 317

hay MadWheel, thanks for your reply. how do i zero out the AAV? under the "main unit setting" do i zero out BOTH the RPM and percentage rows? I'm not sure how to do the % value if that's what i'm supposed to do

 
Rep Power: 0

Mex, your VTM wire isn't hooked up you said, it's supposed to be hooked up...

 
Rep Power: 317

the instructions i read (andyman97's post) said to cut and leave wire going to engine.. so does that mean the VTM wire connects only to the ECU side? i took it to mean you cut the wire off and leave the stock wire alone. i'm not using the VTEC feature anyway.

i went and zeroed out the AAV, and changed the setting to 4-8-E. calibrated the TPS, and still get the same problem. now it's picking up the symptoms in neutral, too. this must be an engine problem.. i think i hear some faint metallic rattling coming from the left side of the block.

on another note, the airflow meter pulse output now says "not in use"

 
Rep Power: 349

Courtesy of Madwheel's original Emanage writeup below. My wrietup says to cut and leave the wire going into the engine bay. But you still need to connect the wire to the ecu. That's why I have it showing to connect to that point.

Purple---VTM Out----Blue w/black stripe (Pin 9, Conn B, TO ECU, cut and terminate signal from engine, the purple wire is to be soldered directly to the blue/blk wire going into the ECU. Tape off the cut part of the wire that is no longer connected to the ECU.