Need help with coolant resovoir
06-14-2005
#31
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Originally Posted by Civic_RedLine
is it called a leakdown test?
http://64.78.42.182/sweethaven/MechT...Num=2&modNum=5
Combustion Leak Test
A combustion leak test is designed to check for the presence of combustion gases in the engine coolant. It should be performed when signs (overheating, bubbles in the coolant, rise in coolant level upon starting) point to a blown head gasket, cracked block, or cracked cylinder head.
A block tester, often called a combustion leak tester, is placed in the radiator filler neck. The engine is started and the test bulb is squeezed and then released. This will pull air from the radiator through the test fluid.
The fluid in the block tester is normally blue. The chemicals in the exhaust gases cause a reaction in the test fluid, changing its color. A combustion leak will turn the fluid yellow. If the fluid remains blue, there is no combustion leak.
Combustion leakage into the cooling system is very damaging. Exhaust gases mix with the coolant and form corrosive acids. The acids can cause holes in the radiator and corrode other components.
An exhaust gas analyzer will also detect combustion pressure leakage into the coolant. By placing the analyzer probe over the filler neck and accelerating the engine, the probe will pick up any hydrocarbons (HC) leaking from the system, which indicates combustion leakage.
A combustion leak test is designed to check for the presence of combustion gases in the engine coolant. It should be performed when signs (overheating, bubbles in the coolant, rise in coolant level upon starting) point to a blown head gasket, cracked block, or cracked cylinder head.
A block tester, often called a combustion leak tester, is placed in the radiator filler neck. The engine is started and the test bulb is squeezed and then released. This will pull air from the radiator through the test fluid.
The fluid in the block tester is normally blue. The chemicals in the exhaust gases cause a reaction in the test fluid, changing its color. A combustion leak will turn the fluid yellow. If the fluid remains blue, there is no combustion leak.
Combustion leakage into the cooling system is very damaging. Exhaust gases mix with the coolant and form corrosive acids. The acids can cause holes in the radiator and corrode other components.
An exhaust gas analyzer will also detect combustion pressure leakage into the coolant. By placing the analyzer probe over the filler neck and accelerating the engine, the probe will pick up any hydrocarbons (HC) leaking from the system, which indicates combustion leakage.
http://store.autotoolexpress.com/colete.html
06-14-2005
#32
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Rep Power: 305 don't even bother on spendidng any more money that you need too.
Is the HG.
Change it.
Get the head resurfaced, and don't boost till you get a better fuel system and
e-manage to retard timing.
Is the HG.
Change it.
Get the head resurfaced, and don't boost till you get a better fuel system and
e-manage to retard timing.
06-14-2005
#34
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Rep Power: 0 I didnt even read the thread but my first guess is HG b/c thats the same problem I had when I found out mine was blown...well it wasnt BLOWN...it had little air pockets
06-14-2005
#36
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Rep Power: 299 It is a blown head gasket. Don't be in denial. The longer you wait the worse it will get. The problem will not "go away" Pick up a new one and some arp head bolts have them torqued to 55 ftlbs and boost safely.
06-14-2005
#37
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Rep Power: 275 driving under boost constantly on 4 or 6 psi puts positive pressure where it shouldn't be for a sustained period of time. that would cause the HG to go and the head to lift. I boost 8psi daily and during the day I keep the car running as close to 16vac as possible(stock vac) When I go out to run. I'll run my race and then back off and let it cool beween runs. never back to back and it's held together dam well for a motor with 97k on it.(knock on wood) I would change the head gasket, keep it in vac and play safe when your daily driving and try adding in more water to your collant mixture and adding in some anti corrisve additive like blue ice or water wetter. The more water % in the mixture the better the cooling capabilties. Water cools better then coolant. just make sure to add the anticorrive mix in so you don't get rust in the system and screw up the water pump
06-14-2005
#38
im stock now! T.T
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Rep Power: 265 Just did the test, mechanic did it for free since I gave him some speaker wires for his system that I had laying around. He told me he doesnt know if its the h-g for sure are not cause he couldnt tell on mine. He also checked oil to make sure no water in there and my head wasnt shaking so he told me usually when its a h-g the head shakes. I didnt know what else tests he did but im going back for a compression test tomorrow.
PS He took off the thermostat so the the car will be cooler. Is this a nono? he told me he did this to all of his customer's cars and I known this guy for quite sometime now so I dont think he would bs me.
PS He took off the thermostat so the the car will be cooler. Is this a nono? he told me he did this to all of his customer's cars and I known this guy for quite sometime now so I dont think he would bs me.
06-15-2005
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Originally Posted by Supermex
don't even bother on spendidng any more money that you need too.
Is the HG.
Change it.
Get the head resurfaced, and don't boost till you get a better fuel system and
e-manage to retard timing.
Is the HG.
Change it.
Get the head resurfaced, and don't boost till you get a better fuel system and
e-manage to retard timing.
Im on 8psi and never touched the timing. as soon as we pulled timing I lost 25hp. Im at 194whp 174tq running pig rich dipping into 9:1 I think once I pull some fuel I should hit the 200whp @8psi mark.
06-15-2005
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im stock now! T.T
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Rep Power: 265 ok, Im still not sure if it was the hg or not. Im at low boost which is like 3-4 right now. My power feels so slow, the rpms take forever to go up there, it seems as if I dont even have a turbo anymore. Is it possible that I could have blown something like a piston so my car doesnt run the same anymore?
06-15-2005
#41
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Originally Posted by Civic_RedLine
Just did the test, mechanic did it for free since I gave him some speaker wires for his system that I had laying around. He told me he doesnt know if its the h-g for sure are not cause he couldnt tell on mine. He also checked oil to make sure no water in there and my head wasnt shaking so he told me usually when its a h-g the head shakes. I didnt know what else tests he did but im going back for a compression test tomorrow.
PS He took off the thermostat so the the car will be cooler. Is this a nono? he told me he did this to all of his customer's cars and I known this guy for quite sometime now so I dont think he would bs me.
PS He took off the thermostat so the the car will be cooler. Is this a nono? he told me he did this to all of his customer's cars and I known this guy for quite sometime now so I dont think he would bs me.
head shaking?
Compression test won't tell you much.
Just accept what we all said and replace it. It really can't be anything else. There's a reason why 10 different people all said the same thing.
Last edited by Havok2k1; 06-15-2005 at 02:29 PM.
06-15-2005
#42
im stock now! T.T
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Rep Power: 265 eh? i didnt take the thermostat off, just the spring that closes it. the coolant does not overflow anymore does this still mean it was the hg? by the time I change my hg I wanna better radiator too so this wont happen and get e-manage with srt injectors...
You still dont think its your HG? As someone said your in denial. 
06-16-2005
#44
Currently boosted at 0 psi.
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
The more water % in the mixture the better the cooling capabilties. Water cools better then coolant.
06-19-2005
#51
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
If you retard the timing on that low of psi your going to drop power like a bizitch.
Im on 8psi and never touched the timing. as soon as we pulled timing I lost 25hp. Im at 194whp 174tq running pig rich dipping into 9:1 I think once I pull some fuel I should hit the 200whp @8psi mark.
Im on 8psi and never touched the timing. as soon as we pulled timing I lost 25hp. Im at 194whp 174tq running pig rich dipping into 9:1 I think once I pull some fuel I should hit the 200whp @8psi mark.
you can also pull fuel by using a fuel regulator and setting e-manage to control the injectors fuel flow.
8psi on stock internals is a lot, the pistons are almost flat.
The car need to be tunned properly or the first thing to go will be the HG.
Sooner or latter it will happen.
Red Line don't be on denial like dj mota said, if you run with your thermostat off you will do more damage than good.
The reason you are blowing watter into the reservoir is because you are leaking preassure from the water jacket walls of the block.
The damage is not that severe yet to leak coolant into the oil.
And some times will not be detected when the car is cold witch need to be in order to do a compresion check.
The car will only get hot as you lose water from the radiator.
Don't waste any more time and money.
If you whait too long you may cause the block to warped and then you'll have to dismantle your engine and get the block to the machine shop $$$$
If you already ran your car without a thermostat you need to put it back on and reset the computer.
You car is not running hot!
But monitor your radiators fluids daily or better yet don't drive till you get the HG changed
Last edited by Supermex; 06-19-2005 at 01:30 PM.
06-19-2005
#52
im stock now! T.T
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Rep Power: 265 replaced thermostat and now no spill whatsoever, did all the t ests and every one of them came out perfect. Im gonna keep it like this til I get e-manage or something.
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