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okay the filter that came with my missing link is FILTY...what did u guys replace yours with temporary? also I got a another question...what the hell does this plug go to?

BTW, I just cranked my car for the first time in 4 weeks and thought I wash and drive it...sorry I've been on my '05 Gixxer 750 having a blast and forgot all about my boosted D17

here's that plug...

 
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that sensor is the iat sensor it plugs into the intake/pipe before entering the TB. I'm not sure if it's differnt for a turbo app.

 
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for turbo u don't need to hook up the iat sensor.

 
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Hey Cliff, long time no see. How's the car running? 14.2 on 8 psi-not bad man. Hope all is well. When you leaving for the air force?

For that filter, you can use a piece of sponge or whatever else for it.

 
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thanx guys

no AF for me andy...yeah hope to get it tuned here after I pick up some RSX injectors and I think I need a new fuel pump...thanx again

 
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Yes you do

You can try and wash that filter with some ether or you can a piece of sponge or foam from like a mop or something.

 
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I posted this same question on my club's site and they said I DO need that sensor...here's the argument...

Debate on whether I need that Intake Sensor and other stuff

 
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The IAT sensor senses the temperature of the air entering your TB. It adjust your fuel based on the temperature of incoming air. Warmer air has less oxygen and is less dense, therefore, it requires less fuel. Colder air is denser and has more oxygen and requires more fuel. For your car to run properly you need to have that sensor installed.

I bet you are getting a cel, especially on hot days or after driving awhile.

 
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That is true. However, warmer pressurized air is much denser than non pressurized ice cold air. That's why turbos make so much more power. I ran turbo for about 20k miles and didn't have my iat sensor hooked up and never had an issue with it. If it runs well and you don't get a code, I wouldn't worry about it.

 
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I guarente you after a while that it wil cause you problems. They are right, our car adjusts fuel and timing alot more than people realize, and I bet it gets pretty hot in Lousiana

 
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yes I do get a CEL and as of right now, I'm not getting ENOUGH fuel...I tried to dyno my car a while back and it ran lean...I dont know if my fuel pump or FMU is bad...I'm pickin up some RSX injectors hopefully this week...but other than that, where should I start...fuel pump is working ( it comes on) but it could be going bad and reason I say that b/c I know a few of you guys have received bad fuel pumps from SF...help a brotha out

 
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Does your pump suddenly make loud noises like it is going to blow up ?? That is how you know your pump is burning up. I burned up 3 of them by letting it run while idling. The pump should only run when it is in boost for it to last. You can install a lower pressure switch in the charge pipe to engage the pump or go the cheap way and install a toggle switch to turn it on when you hit boost. This way is a pain in the ***, but it is alot cheaper.

Also, the type s injectors are worthless unless you have a piggyback to control them. Do you have a safc or e-manage ??? If you use them w/o a piggyback, you will run majorly rich and your car will run like ****.

Install your IAT sensor, this may help you out. There are several ways to do this. You can drill a hole in your charge pipe and use a rubber grommet like that in a intake and use some kid of strong glue to hold it in. I have seen mustang owners use only a rubber grommet with no problems of it blowing out. Another way is to drill and tap the charge pipe and use a threaded nut to thread the sensor and screw the sensor into the pipe.

 
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Also, what psi did u dyno at ?? Probably anything over 10psi with stock injectors, you will run lean.

Also, do you have the alchy injection kit ??

 
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agreed, w/out the sensor hooked up, you SHOULD have a CEL. I had mine unhooked once, and it drove like ***. this was about 4 years ago that I did it. My shifts sucked, everything sucked. Id hook it back up in the same spot as it was before, in the piping, right before the throttle body.

 
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Yea... do that and you'll notice the car acting a bit more sluggish then it would be if you had that sensor installed. Just put the ebay resistor in it and call it a day

 
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No, you wouldn't get a cel... last I checked... air is everywhere.

 
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The resistor is bad for F/I setups. It raises the timing by 1-1.5 degrees. It is alright for N/A, but not for F/I.

 
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Yes you will because if the sensor is not in the charge pipe then it will read the temperature coming from the heat of the engine. The hot air will throw a cel. During the winter you shouldn't get one or during the first 15-20 min or driving until the engine bay gets hot. On a really hot day, it will come on alot faster.

 
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I have the VAFC II, and I was trying to dyno/tune on 5psi first and my A/F shot up to 15. And I do have alcohol but that doesnt come on till 7psi and I'm running methanol (well I switched to methanol but never got the chance to run it). But the pump does kinda make a weird noise...Its not quiet put it that way. Do u know the part number on pump and where can I pick up one at? Hopefully with new pump, IAT sensor installed, and RSX injectors I can finally boost the car and get it dyno/tuned. But still as it sits right now, where do u think I'm smelling fuel from? Its like I smell it like its on my hand but when I look under the hood I dont see any fuel

EDIT: I know one reason I get a CEL is b/c I dont have a cat

 
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If your pump is making weird noises that are loud and it is screaming like it is gonna blow, then your pump is burning up. Get a MSD inline pump from Jeff at SLP. I bought 3 of them from him until i figured out the problem and this last one i bought is lasting me a long time now.

 
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You can run a walbro intank 255 lph pump to replace the stock one and throw away the sf piece of crap. Using those stock injectors is not a good idea. They weren't designed to spray at a longer pulsewidth. That's why you're running lean. Get a new pump and injectors. You have a VAFC. That will do the trick. After that, get it tuned.

 
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That would be the best way, but also expensive since you have to convert to a return.

 
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I forgot to plug mine in... I didn't get a cel

 
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But there's no real reason to convert to return. You can run that setup with no return line if you want to. You won't run more than stock pressure and it'll be practically a stock setup.
But, even if you run a return, t's not as expensive as everyone thinks. All you need is a return fitting on the rail and a line back to the tank. That's it.
2 Fittings-under 20 bucks
15 foot fuel line-60 bucks
Welding cost-50 bucks

Everything additional is additional. Depending on the setup, a new fuel pressure regulator may not be necessary. I'm not going to run one, don't need one with decent size injectors. And a new in tank fuel pump is only 100 bucks. But you don't need one of those for return either, just a good idea for boost.

 
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thanx guys for the advice

 
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Well, the walboro does not have a built in fpr like our stock in tank pumps. Therefore, you will need to install a fpr on the rail. Since fpr's are installed after the rail on the return side, you will need to run a return line.

 
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Not true, either. The fpr isn't built into the pump. It's part of the pump assembly. I just installed my intank pump and I didn't install a new fpr. Car runs exactly the same. Don't need fpr or return line. I'm not running either one.

But, you're on the right track. What most people are doing is unhooking/removing the stock fpr. Whether or not you need a new fpr depends on your injector size and target hp. If you run a set of rsx injectors, a new fpr may be a good idea. I haven't done the calculations on that size injectors for horsepower output but 45 psi may not be enough fuel pressure to get enough fuel out of those injectors. I'll be running 440's and I know they are capable of making the hp I want with the stock fpr.

Another thing to keep in mind is upping the fuel pressure too much will cause a very inconsistent spray pattern. I say that anything over 60 psi fuel pressure isn't safe. You max out your injectors and run the risk of running lean when you start hitting higher boost. This is a big reason so many people running sf's fuel system have blown head gaskets and damage their motors, it just isn't safe.

 
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OK guys - here is why the IAT is important (as I've posted umpteeeeeen different times before!!) - it really doesn't influence fuel as much as it influences TIMING!!!

What is the problem with it hanging outside of your throttle body? Its getting all of the heat of the engine bay, giving it FALSE readings. FALSE readings of HOT will cause the cars ECU to RETARD the timing - meaning that you will LOSE power! Additionally, the possiblity of it not retarding timing when it really IS needed may cause detionation - and when you are in boost - you will blow something....

but yeah, go listen to someone who doesn't know anything about 7th gens...

 
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You are forgetting something. What happens when you boost? You put pressure into the cylinder head. You are creating a pressure differential. The cylinder head is normally at VACUUM when driving, pulling fuel into it from the injectors. When there is pressure in the cylinder head, you are causing LESS fuel from the injectors to go into the cylinder head (granted you are still getting fuel, but its LESS because of the 5-10 psi of boost or whatever you are running). That's why you NEED an external boost referencing FPR! If you don't run with one, and ONLY rely on the FPR in the tank, your fuel pressure will NEVER raise to compensate for the boost pressure. 1:1 - for every 1 PSI of boost pressure you add, you need to add 1 PSI of fuel pressure to compensate - keeping your fuel trims equal across the board. This isn't going to damage your injectors OR fuel system, as the static pressure across the injector remains the same as it did without boost.

 
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Ouch - just read some of the other comments in here....this is bad juju guys. You need a higher output pump than stock! The stock pump is only rated for what its rated, not for performance. When you start to increase pump pressure, you are going to damage the pump. Which is why its necessary to replace the OEM pump with a HP pump from Walboro - otherwise its just a matter of time before you go into the fuel tank again to replace it. Do it right the first time! It will end up costing you less in the long run!