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Hey pplz,

I have been using an Apexi S-AFC for some time now to tune my A/F ratios (on a Dyno). So therefore from what I understand is that a dry nitrous kit wouldn't allow my to have a normal A/F ratio whilst off-the bottle, because the engine would need to be tuned only for when the dry nitrous is being injected? What if the off-the bottle ratio is tuned then whilst on-the bottle the A/F ratio wouldn't be right most likly be running lean.

Therefore the only real option would be to go a Wet Kit because then the off-the bottle A/F would create the base for tuning. Pretty much just like it would be now. And only tuning or adding enough fuel to create an appropiate A/F ratio whilst on-the bottle not to lean or not to rich!

Is this correct?

 
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All in all if I may interject an opinion...go with a wet nitrous kit anyways...I am getting my set-up tuned on Wednesday with a VAFC2 and NX 50 Shot...it would seem to me that the second statement would be true for tuning properly! Good luck and keep us updated!!

 
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get you car tuned n/a with safc2 for the most power. then try your WET kit at different bottle pressures. find the pressure that puts you around 12-12.5 and stick to that when spraying. With a heater and bottle guage you can dial in your n20 a/f ratio and leave you day to day safc2 settings alone.

 
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Yeah I will be getting my Zex Kit tuned to a 55 shot - should be good fun

my car is tuned n/a, so now I find a bottle pressure thats going to put me around 12-12.5 however what scale/measurment is this? I will have the bottle warmer (heater) and guage along with remote and so i can leave the safc2 settings fixed to my n/a setup.

 
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air fuel ratio is the scale I'm not sure what that = in lambda Head to a dyno and do a baseline run, have them hook up the wide band (usually 3 pulls for 60 bux) first do one pull at 800 psi then do one at 900 psi if its safe. Or if you know someone witha wide band they'll let you borrow thats even better.

 
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Last Dyno Tune I had for N/A they tuned it flat around 0.90 LAMBDA, what does this mean? so 12-12.5 would be what LAMBDA?

 
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The reason nitrous burning cars lose so many motors is because they are leaning them out. This goes double for the dry kits.
The wet kits that my tuner has done noticed that the directions say to use a certain pill for the fuel and one for the nitrous. But he also noticed that when going by the book they are tending to lean out. I think he said he usually ends up going double on the fuel pill.
I had a 2001 civic ex all the bolt ons and a 50shot of nitrous and ended up funking up the valves, and running lean. But the stuff was just so addicting

 
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That's why im asking questions and doing research... because I don't want to be running my car lean whilst spraying nitrous, I figure the best way to avoid this is to have the knowledge of whats actually going on under the hood and being able to prevent any problems rather than fixing them.

I will most likley drop in some KMS Race springs, titanium retainers and a good set of KMS race Valves so that I don't **** anything.

Play around with the 50 shot for some time and than drop in a good set of forged pistons and than try a 75 shot.