DIY: EM2 - D17 to K20 wiring swap and general info
04-11-2005
#1
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DIY: EM2 - D17 to K20 wiring swap and general info
COURTESY OF Dark2k1
According to this it looks like these are the things you have to do..
take clip c101 from the k20 wireharness and move it as follows
move clip 1 into 4
move clip 2 into 5
move clip 3 into 6
leave 7 as is
leave 8 as is
move clip 9 into 17
clip 10** read note on bottom of image
leave 11 and 12 as is
clip 13** read note on bottom of image
move clip 14 into 19
clip 15** read note on bottom of image
leave 16 as is
move clip 17 into 9
leave 18 as is
clip 19** read note on bottom of image
leave 20 as is
I think that covers it.. please feel free to add anything in.. especially DARK2K1 who supplied the wire harness diagram.
According to this it looks like these are the things you have to do..
take clip c101 from the k20 wireharness and move it as follows
move clip 1 into 4
move clip 2 into 5
move clip 3 into 6
leave 7 as is
leave 8 as is
move clip 9 into 17
clip 10** read note on bottom of image
leave 11 and 12 as is
clip 13** read note on bottom of image
move clip 14 into 19
clip 15** read note on bottom of image
leave 16 as is
move clip 17 into 9
leave 18 as is
clip 19** read note on bottom of image
leave 20 as is
I think that covers it.. please feel free to add anything in.. especially DARK2K1 who supplied the wire harness diagram.
Last edited by xproductionz; 07-06-2005 at 12:00 PM.
04-15-2005
#8
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Originally Posted by fastest_ex
i might be a newbie to this swap but can u answer if where can i get this c101 connecter?
04-22-2005
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Nope sorry I don't have the EP3 sheet. But verify yourself, just check your C101 connector...If you have some wire not a the same place...go with your logik, it's easy enought
05-14-2005
#14
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Rep Power: 0 Dose your CMP work on that setup? my CMP grounds out fuse 4 then blows. Hondata's diagram show you have to wire the k20 CMP (black and Yellow) to the main relay. Because the civic Black and orange is a CMP ground, when the k20 needs to be a + not a ground.
05-15-2005
#15
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Rep Power: 0 Sorry but I inspect the wiring diagram of each car and the CMP follow the same way. Also my car run is k20 since 3 weeks and everything running well...
K20a2...powerful engine
K20a2...powerful engine
05-23-2005
#16
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Rep Power: 0 About the AF sensor wiring..
The sensor itself is easy enough to wire, just plug the K20 C101 wire to the sensor.
The second one have to be wire in the E connector if my memory is correct. You must had 2 wire in it (refer to the manual shop).
The major problems is about hte Sensor heater relay, I still get a code about it, so I can't help you and I'm tired to work on this detail, so I'll take time again this summer and when I'll find how to wire it correctly I'll make a second sheet for the sensor.
But...in fact..
AF sensor : Signal + and signal - MUST be correctly wire for start the engine
Secondary 02 sensor : Only here for advise you if your cat converter work correctly(something like useless), but will sort a code if it not wire.
Heater Relay : the sensor heater is only here for heat the sensor when is cold. o2 sensor give better result when is hot, so for a better fuel effiency (when engine is cold only)is great to have this one correctly wire. But like the last one, if is not wire correctly, a code will be on (41 exactely)
The pin 7 Fan control wire is also the wire you must connect on the thermoswitch.
This one is the switch start you fan when the temp come to hot. Take the Civic one (connect on the thermostat hosing on the block) if the RSX wasn't in the radiator (or if you do like me, put a custom one with a fitting in a pipe for the switch) Connect one wire to the ground, and the other one on the FanControl wire.
About the FanC wire, I take it neer the fusebox connector (and it work), not at the C101 connector, I thougt it should work too, but I can't guarentee it.
The sensor itself is easy enough to wire, just plug the K20 C101 wire to the sensor.
The second one have to be wire in the E connector if my memory is correct. You must had 2 wire in it (refer to the manual shop).
The major problems is about hte Sensor heater relay, I still get a code about it, so I can't help you and I'm tired to work on this detail, so I'll take time again this summer and when I'll find how to wire it correctly I'll make a second sheet for the sensor.
But...in fact..
AF sensor : Signal + and signal - MUST be correctly wire for start the engine
Secondary 02 sensor : Only here for advise you if your cat converter work correctly(something like useless), but will sort a code if it not wire.
Heater Relay : the sensor heater is only here for heat the sensor when is cold. o2 sensor give better result when is hot, so for a better fuel effiency (when engine is cold only)is great to have this one correctly wire. But like the last one, if is not wire correctly, a code will be on (41 exactely)
The pin 7 Fan control wire is also the wire you must connect on the thermoswitch.
This one is the switch start you fan when the temp come to hot. Take the Civic one (connect on the thermostat hosing on the block) if the RSX wasn't in the radiator (or if you do like me, put a custom one with a fitting in a pipe for the switch) Connect one wire to the ground, and the other one on the FanControl wire.
About the FanC wire, I take it neer the fusebox connector (and it work), not at the C101 connector, I thougt it should work too, but I can't guarentee it.
Last edited by Dark2k1; 05-29-2005 at 11:48 AM.
07-06-2005
#18
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Rep Power: 272 fyi: things i found out about my swap
you dont need the rsx throttle cable if you wanna save some cash... you can use any 92-95 civic sohc throttle cable... thats what i am using now
you dont need the fuel line, brake booster line, and purge line cause the original ones from the motor will do just fine...
you dont need the 90 accord negative battery cable.. pointless
your original shifter assembly will work with the swap so dont buy it like i did.. waste of money once again.... just buy the cables
and you dont need a custom hood latch from hasport
you dont need the rsx throttle cable if you wanna save some cash... you can use any 92-95 civic sohc throttle cable... thats what i am using now
you dont need the fuel line, brake booster line, and purge line cause the original ones from the motor will do just fine...
you dont need the 90 accord negative battery cable.. pointless
your original shifter assembly will work with the swap so dont buy it like i did.. waste of money once again.... just buy the cables
and you dont need a custom hood latch from hasport
08-04-2005
#21
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Rep Power: 0 You should get the RSX manual shop.....
The first AF sensor is connected to the ECU via the C101 connector...
The second one is plug in the E connector... So you must add 2 wire to the plug... I don't have the manual shop here... I'll give you further information soon
The first AF sensor is connected to the ECU via the C101 connector...
The second one is plug in the E connector... So you must add 2 wire to the plug... I don't have the manual shop here... I'll give you further information soon
08-04-2005
#22
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Rep Power: 0 i got it all wired up. is the grey wire the ground or is the black wire on the primary o2? i wired it up hopefully i was right and the black is ground.
12-10-2005
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Originally Posted by ImportRacer2123
i got it all wired up. is the grey wire the ground or is the black wire on the primary o2? i wired it up hopefully i was right and the black is ground.
Originally Posted by Dark2k1
I think.. hte 2 black wire is for the heater.... white for the signal and grey for signal ground.... but I'm not sure
Did Anyone Figure this out?
07-02-2006
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Rep Power: 272 talk about back from the dead.. i actually took all this wiring info and put it in with the other DIY stickied up at the top.. anyways...
i actually had my car running for 2 days with no o2 wired in so in protest to your statement.. NO... lol...
the only thing stopping your car from starting is the immbolizer.. you need kpro to get it started.. or you could just tow it down to the dealer and have them reflash your key, immobolizer and ecu to all match so your car can start
i actually had my car running for 2 days with no o2 wired in so in protest to your statement.. NO... lol...
the only thing stopping your car from starting is the immbolizer.. you need kpro to get it started.. or you could just tow it down to the dealer and have them reflash your key, immobolizer and ecu to all match so your car can start
