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Old Feb 6, 2005
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Need opinions from Nitrous People

I bought the NX Wet import kit today from jegs for 525 including taxes Now that I have it, I would also like to buy some of the extras NX offers such as a bottle warmer, purge, bottle opener and gauge. First question, Which gauge do you guys prefer or would like to have? One that just connects to the bottle, or one in the cockpit either being mechanical or electric(more expensive) Is it really a hassle to have one just on the bottle or is it better to have it in the cockpit with u?

Bottle warmers, would u suggest paying extra for ones that are automatic, or just get one thats regular which u shut on or off. Which bottle warmer do you guys feel is best (NX, Zex, NOS, Cold fusion etc)

Purge, Can i install my kit and install a purge later down the line when i have more money. Will this be more of a hassle and should just wait to install everything at once.

Bottle Opener, Ive talked to thiscrackerntampa and he says he wished he had one so he didn't have to keep turning the bottle on and off in the trunk. If I only just nitrous at the track, is this bottle opener really worth it. How often do you shut the bottle on before every race and off after ur done racing?

Anyone who can offer advice to any of this is greatly appreciated. Just trying to get a feel on what I need to buy and plan for nitrous this summer and opinions from people that have nitrous. Thanks and sorry for the long post.
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Old Feb 6, 2005
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I bought edelbrock kit which came with a pressure gauge that connects to the bottle. It works awesome and I highly recommend getting the gauge before anything else because it tells you the best time to use it or the dangerous times you should take the bottle out which is never unless you live in weathers with over 100 degrees.
2nd dont get a bottle warmer if your area aint cold. I only got a bottle blanket and the pressure stays at 7 psi overnight, even when its cold. Probably 50 degrees or lower. You can use your own towels but the blanket is made for it and it is very nice and isnt dangerous like a bottle warmer that can explode your bottle.

Personally YOU DO NOT NEED a bottle opener. I leave my bottle valve on over night so if someone tries to steal it they will get frosbite when disconnecting the wires. Its ok to leave the bottle on for a long period of time. Just dont leave it on for weeks or something. But I have left the bottle on for couple days before. Its ok to leave the bottle on, I asked edelbrock and they said it was ok to leave it on just dont leave it on for weeks.

Purge kits can be useful but is it really worth 100+? Its basically only for looks. It also keeps nitrous at the lines for faster injection. If I could get a purge kit for cheap I would but Im not paying 50+ for it. But if you do get it down the line after the nitrous kit is installed, it is possible to install the purge kit with no problems.

I also highly recommend getting an air/fuel ratio gauge. The a/f gauge will tell you if your running lean or rich. If your running lean it is way better to get a cheapo gauge for 40$ and know your detonating rather then finding out later down the road when its too late. I got the AEM UEGO a/f gauge. I dont need the UEGO but I just got it for the name and quality plus I only paid 100$ for mines.
Get new plugs also so you can check it if it detonates. thats why Im telling you to get an a/f ratio gauge so you wont need to check your plugs all the time. When I first had my nitrous system I checked my oil and plugs every otherday if possible. With a gauge you will know if your car is about to detonate. get new plugs also. Im using denso iridium and they work perfect. There are plenty of others but Im just explaining to you what I am using.

I hope this helped out.

Last edited by Civic_RedLine; Feb 6, 2005 at 11:19 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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I have a gauge that is connected directly to the bottle, and I like it alot. I always fold down my bigger rear seat section anyway for sound and so I can see the gauge in my rear view mirror. I didn't want to have an extra gauge on my dash anyway so this type works well for me (I bought it used)

Also, I think you will definetely need a bottle warmer. I didn't hook mine up right away when I installed the kit, and even with a full bottle I couldn't get past about 700psi (in December, granted) so the bottle warmer was essential. I would think in Ohio you would surely need one. It's an easy addition later on though if you want to try and go without first. Oh, and get an automatic one - I have the NX one and it's great

A remote bottle opener would definitely be convenient but they are expensive, so it's just a question of how much money you have to play with. I usually leave my bottle open all day, on days I wanna use it, and shut it off and purge the lines when I'm parked for the night.
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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with all that money invested I would rather get a turbo. I spent 500 on my kit +30$ for blanket. thats all I spent. For installation, I just passed down my friend 100$ for having his workers help me out.

BTW its freezing here also. With the blanket I get no less than 7psi on a california cold day, even if its raining.
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=196199

you might want to look into this^^^
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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Bottle warmers are a must if you plan on getting the most out of your system.

Purge kits are good if you plan on drag racing and need the gas ASAP.

Everything else is convenience...
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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Originally Posted by Havok2k1

Everything else is convenience...
And THAT is what we like LOL
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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My kit did not come with a gauge so I guess I will buy one and just put it in the cockpit somewhere. I do plan on getting a bottle warmer now and maybe a purge system. Hopefully I can keep all these expensises below 200. My goal this summer is to hit low 14's depending on how much I want to strip out my interior. Thanks for the opinions, any one else have any helpful comments?
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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damn, just reading this thread makes me almost wish I didnt just sell my NX kit. lol
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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Originally Posted by scansel912
My kit did not come with a gauge so I guess I will buy one and just put it in the cockpit somewhere. I do plan on getting a bottle warmer now and maybe a purge system. Hopefully I can keep all these expensises below 200. My goal this summer is to hit low 14's depending on how much I want to strip out my interior. Thanks for the opinions, any one else have any helpful comments?

If you didnt get atleast one liquid filled pressure gauge with your kit, that blows. NX must be changing things to get more money.
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Old Feb 7, 2005
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Yea probably, wasnt' even a holder in the plastic for one that could be there haha. Oh well.

BTW, if anyone has any nitrous accessories I may be interested in buying.
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Old Feb 8, 2005
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i have a nice microswitch mounting bracket that edelbrock gave me.
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Old Feb 8, 2005
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I'll pass, but the switch NX gave me is gay as hell.
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Old Feb 8, 2005
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^^why?
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Old Feb 8, 2005
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Its a big red toggle plastic switch, just looks ricey to me imo. I'll just buy that 3 switch thing NX makes with the GENX upgrade. Looks good and clean.
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Old Feb 9, 2005
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I didnt see anything wrong with the big red toggle switches....They light up red really well at night too so I didnt see anything wrong with them. I dont see how switches can be classified as rice anyway unless it says "type r" or something like that. lol
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Old Feb 9, 2005
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I had an idea for a sleeper switch setup. Don't know if will work because I'm not there to see how everything is actually wired. HAve to verify when I get back. I don't have cruise control, but I do have the slots for it. So I was gonna see how much a switch for cruise control is. Then run 12v to that. Run the other pole to a 12v relay to trigger the coil. The normally closed contacts would go to the Rear defroster so it could still be used under normal conditions. When it's time to have fun, arm the system by pressing the "Cruise Control" button. This will energize the relay coil and open the NC heater comtacts and close the NO contacts. Now power is just waiting at the Rear defrost button. As soon as I shift into second reach up(fast) and hit that Defrost which should instantly kick in the N20. Total sleeper. No suspicious big red switch for cops or challengers to question. Just another crazy Idea I had. Now I gotta work on hiding the bottle. I was thinking some kinda fake speaker box.

Here's a wiring diagram I just whipped up if it helps at all.
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Last edited by Redline04; Feb 9, 2005 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2005
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Yea, I was thinking about mounting those nx upgrade switches on the left side of the center console by the shifter. Anyone have any other good spots on where to mount switches?
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Old Feb 9, 2005
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Originally Posted by Redline04
I had an idea for a sleeper switch setup. Don't know if will work because I'm not there to see how everything is actually wired. HAve to verify when I get back. I don't have cruise control, but I do have the slots for it. So I was gonna see how much a switch for cruise control is. Then run 12v to that. Run the other pole to a 12v relay to trigger the coil. The normally closed contacts would go to the Rear defroster so it could still be used under normal conditions. When it's time to have fun, arm the system by pressing the "Cruise Control" button. This will energize the relay coil and open the NC heater comtacts and close the NO contacts. Now power is just waiting at the Rear defrost button. As soon as I shift into second reach up(fast) and hit that Defrost which should instantly kick in the N20. Total sleeper. No suspicious big red switch for cops or challengers to question. Just another crazy Idea I had. Now I gotta work on hiding the bottle. I was thinking some kinda fake speaker box.

Here's a wiring diagram I just whipped up if it helps at all.
Speakerbox works, but becomes ungainly when removing your bottle for fill. Maybe my design sucked, but the easiest way I found to hide my bottle was slitting open the bottom of a gym bag, making side cuts for the braketry and hose, then having velcro to secure it back around the bottom. Just unzip to get your bottle out.

Not to mention it's alot easier to build than a new speakerbox, and it weighs a whole lot less.
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Old Feb 9, 2005
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Originally Posted by Pb4uGo
Speakerbox works, but becomes ungainly when removing your bottle for fill. Maybe my design sucked, but the easiest way I found to hide my bottle was slitting open the bottom of a gym bag, making side cuts for the braketry and hose, then having velcro to secure it back around the bottom. Just unzip to get your bottle out.

Not to mention it's alot easier to build than a new speakerbox, and it weighs a whole lot less.
Nice That's sounds perfect!
So far that's the best I've heard.
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Old Feb 9, 2005
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Originally Posted by Redline04
Nice That's sounds perfect!
So far that's the best I've heard.
If you're worrying about hiding everything, another trick is to go to the junkyard and pull the underhood fuse/relay box out of a newer model GM truck and mount your solenoids in there. Find a place up against the firewall to mount it and keep your line covered with black loom, looks like it's supposed to be there.

Not to mention, when you puge, purge back onto your main nitrous solenoid, keeping it cool will help ensure a pure liquid flow to your fogger.
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Old Feb 9, 2005
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Damn, smart idea. I will be doing that.
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