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new dyno results, but i also have questions

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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dezod
BTW, what size turbo are you running? T3/T04 B or E I presume judging by the power produced.
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #32  
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Originally Posted by gearbox
djmota, is that why you were running so lean with the dh head?
thats exactly why. I now have a nice smooth 13 ish fuel curve.
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #33  
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Originally Posted by turboengnr
you need to be in the 11's to be safe. 12's will make more power, but if you get one bad tank of gas, it can kill the motor.

#1. Get some bigger injectors
Not necessary if #2 or 3 are done. My injectors hold up fine to 9 PSI daily...

#2. Return line conversion
#3. install fuel pump

Remember that 14.7:1 is the ideal air/fuel ratio for the cleanest burn. For a turbod street car, you want it in the mid-low 11's. For a race car, you want high 11's to mid 12's.

If you are leaner, it causes the EGT's to go up, and increases the chance of detonation. Detonation leads to blown head gaskets and broken ring lands. And that causes you to cry.
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #34  
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Originally Posted by guns
I ran 250whp on a dyno tuned with a VAFC2 on stock bottom and stock injectors. I would have ran aorund 270whp but the injectors were maxed out and it needed more fuel. I ran 12-14psi daily for almost a year with no problems. My A/F was around 13.. Once I stacked two headgaskets to lower compression I had no problems running 14psi. I even spiked to 15-16psi on the track.

I dont suggest trying this without the know how in tuning and a shop full of tools to fix whatever you break. BUt the mighty D17 can take a beating. Dont be afraid to turn the boost to 9psi for daily and 12psi on the weekends. Just make sure you run slightly rich.

Good luck to all. I just thought I would drop by and stir the pot.

BTW I am now using Emanage w/ profec EO1 on my Skyline. I will never use a SAFC and MBC(bleeder valve) again. The Greddy setup is very easy to use and tune once you get it setup. But if all you have is a FMU and vafc you can still make big numbers on stock setup.

I like when you always state that you FAIL to mention that you boosted the **** out of the injectors with that crappy SF fuel pump setup....Or buttloads of alcohol for that matter!
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #35  
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
Not necessary if #2 or 3 are done. My injectors hold up fine to 9 PSI daily...
Opto.....how nice of you to join us!


Where and how have you been man?
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #36  
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Originally Posted by dezod
Opto.....how nice of you to join us!


Where and how have you been man?
Out in space....I just bought a house, and have a new girlfriend. so life has been really busy lately!
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #37  
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Hmm, did you get my PM LOL
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TheSmuggler
Hmm, did you get my PM LOL
Yes, sorry - I didn't reply. I've been extremely busy with things lately, I'm not sure that you'd want my help, as I may f$ck something up. When are you getting everything done?
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #39  
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Haha whenever I order it and it comes in, prob like 3 weeks.. who got yours setup for you?

Edit: I thought you did your own lol
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #40  
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Originally Posted by TheSmuggler
Haha whenever I order it and it comes in, prob like 3 weeks.. who got yours setup for you?

Edit: I thought you did your own lol
I did mine - but I am not in a good situation as far as my mind goes right now. I really would like to install it for you, but I might break something - which would be bad.
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #41  
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What would ya break? LOL.. I understand if ya don't wanna bro no big deal... I'll just haveto ship in someone from outta state to try and work on it for me LOL
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Old Feb 3, 2005
  #42  
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Originally Posted by TheSmuggler
What would ya break? LOL.. I understand if ya don't wanna bro no big deal... I'll just haveto ship in someone from outta state to try and work on it for me LOL
Well - u need to cut wires to install the ignition harness. That is no fun - its not easy, and its time consuming. not that I don't want to do it, just that I don't feel sane enough right now.....Hit me up in a week or so and I'll see what I can do!
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #43  
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
Out in space....I just bought a house, and have a new girlfriend. so life has been really busy lately!

Glad to hear all is well Opto.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #44  
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hey opto when you did your ignition harness did you soder them directly or use the male and female connectors so you could connect them back easy?
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #45  
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
hey opto when you did your ignition harness did you soder them directly or use the male and female connectors so you could connect them back easy?
I Soldiered.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #46  
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I was going to soder but I think by using the connectors it will be much cleaner and be easier to fix the wire harness if I switch to anothet engine managment unit
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #47  
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
I was going to soder but I think by using the connectors it will be much cleaner and be easier to fix the wire harness if I switch to anothet engine managment unit
Soldier will give you better connection than the connectors


Not to mention, if you go to another EMU, I hope your going to stand alone like AEM or Haltech.......Those are going to require rewiring too (AEM will be plug & play).
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #48  
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Soldering can be "undone". Just solder them.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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Originally Posted by dezod
I Soldiered.
Soldering is the best way to connect the wires - if you crimp them they may fail, or they may not have the best electrical contact. If the emanage is ever removed, the wires can just be resoldered and taped back together.

I wish there were an adaptor harness out there for this car - but none exist. I was going to make one - but it would be too costly for just myself, AMP requires their connectors to be purchased in bulk.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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If there was a harness I would buy it in a heart beat. for crying out loud I don't even know who's going to install it for me. I'm not doing it thats for sure.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #51  
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
I wish there were an adaptor harness out there for this car - but none exist. I was going to make one - but it would be too costly for just myself, AMP requires their connectors to be purchased in bulk.
I had the same problem... maybe Dezod might start making/selling some harnesses that can be spliced, so the stock wiring will remain intact?
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #52  
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Exclamation

I have a really important question. When everyone's speaking about being in the 11s, 12s, 13s, ect when speaking of a/f, is that referring to the return voltage from the O2 sensor? We have a diagnostic handheld computer here at the shop that measures in real time the return voltage from the sensor. If this is the case, we're gonna take it out right now to do some tunning.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #53  
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Originally Posted by EternalBlue_Vic
I have a really important question. When everyone's speaking about being in the 11s, 12s, 13s, ect when speaking of a/f, is that referring to the return voltage from the O2 sensor? We have a diagnostic handheld computer here at the shop that measures in real time the return voltage from the sensor. If this is the case, we're gonna take it out right now to do some tunning.

It is the reading from the O2 sensor of what exactly what the A/F ratio is. I tuned w/ Max Power Tuning, who uses a PLX wideband, to approx a A/F ratio of 12:1 @ WOT. Get a wideband O2 and go tune.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
  #54  
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All that A/F meters do is measure the voltage from the 02 sensor and convert it to something people understand.

11 is 11/1 air to fuel ratio.

Take a search around google or something and you'll be able to find the exact volatge you need. Problem is, with stock narrow band sensors, you probably won't be able to find a proper range (e.g. 1.01v might be pig rich and 1.02v might be horribly lean). Widebands can see the small details of that 0.01v difference....
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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Originally Posted by Havok2k1
All that A/F meters do is measure the voltage from the 02 sensor and convert it to something people understand.

11 is 11/1 air to fuel ratio.

Take a search around google or something and you'll be able to find the exact volatge you need. Problem is, with stock narrow band sensors, you probably won't be able to find a proper range (e.g. 1.01v might be pig rich and 1.02v might be horribly lean). Widebands can see the small details of that 0.01v difference....
Very well put by our moderator.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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hey guys on a scale from 1 to 10 how hard do you think the Emanage is to work with (programming wise). I have no experience with it. I have the E-01 boost controller emanage programmer and a wideband. I could pretty much tune my car if I knew what I was doing, well to a point at least. But first I have to get this thing wired into the car. This sucks.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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One reason why i installed these type s injectors was to attempt to avoid going the returnline way. I spoke with xproductions and he said he was able to run 7psi rich with no problem on stock fuel pump and afc. He said he was even able to run like 10- 12 psi and still be on the rich side with no problem. So i basicly purchased the same set up thinking i could do the same.

As i mentioned before when i dynoed my car the lowest i could get the a/f is like 13.1/.5 thats with the injectors maxed out via safc. So why is xproductions able to run higher psi or why was he running rich at 7psi and i wasnt?

Do you guys think my pump is falling off or there is a problem with my safc? Im just curious. Has anyone else ran the safc with type s injectors and no returnline? And had/ not had the same problem?

My old set up was the mf2 injector controller, an extra 440cc and stock injectors. I had no problem with running rich with that set up.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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are you still running at 7psi or did you lower the psi to be safe.
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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Im at 6psi
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Old Feb 4, 2005
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Originally Posted by SODJAZERO
One reason why i installed these type s injectors was to attempt to avoid going the returnline way. I spoke with xproductions and he said he was able to run 7psi rich with no problem on stock fuel pump and afc. He said he was even able to run like 10- 12 psi and still be on the rich side with no problem. So i basicly purchased the same set up thinking i could do the same.

As i mentioned before when i dynoed my car the lowest i could get the a/f is like 13.1/.5 thats with the injectors maxed out via safc. So why is xproductions able to run higher psi or why was he running rich at 7psi and i wasnt?

Do you guys think my pump is falling off or there is a problem with my safc? Im just curious. Has anyone else ran the safc with type s injectors and no returnline? And had/ not had the same problem?

My old set up was the mf2 injector controller, an extra 440cc and stock injectors. I had no problem with running rich with that set up.

Every pump is going to be a little different. Not only that, but your injectors may not flow that well either. Did you get them flow tested before installing them? Unless their new, I would have flow tested them to see what they were putting out.
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