k20a3 for $700
The Original F*ckin Angry Armenian
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true a3's dont have much of sales value at all....most people are huntin for a2's or just the JDM a's....::sigh:: if i had a k20a in my sedan oooooooooh i would be the sleeper of sleepers.....so let me as you guys a question, you think it would be worth the money to swap a k20a3 into our civics? would it cost significantly less? Also when you swap and change axles around that means your front axles are going to be 5 lug while your rears are 4? that might be a problem!
Last edited by ArtIntown11; Nov 19, 2004 at 02:33 AM.
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Originally Posted by ArtIntown11
true a3's dont have much of sales value at all....most people are huntin for a2's or just the JDM a's....::sigh:: if i had a k20a in my sedan oooooooooh i would be the sleeper of sleepers.....so let me as you guys a question, you think it would be worth the money to swap a k20a3 into our civics? would it cost significantly less? Also when you swap and change axles around that means your front axles are going to be 5 lug while your rears are 4? that might be a problem!
If i'm not mistaken, isn't the only difference between the a2 and the a3 is the variable valve timing on the exhaust cam shaft? And isn't that resolved by swapping the a3 head to the a2 head? If that's the case then yes the a3 would make for a inexpensive swap in which later you would have to go back and do the a2 swap and maybe some computer/wiring work. But for punch and go on a budget it makes perfect sense.
The Original F*ckin Angry Armenian
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Rep Power: 0 ^^^^^^ oh ok good that actually cleared a lot up because i dont know if i want to throw 4000 G's for a2 parts when i can put only 2000 in for a3 swap parts. Also how well does the a3 respond to bolt ones....since the a2 does EXTREMELY WELL that would be my entire basis for getting it, it is a great n/a engine, does the a3 respond well to bolts on enough to say it would give ti significant hp gains?
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Originally Posted by ArtIntown11
^^^^^^ oh ok good that actually cleared a lot up because i dont know if i want to throw 4000 G's for a2 parts when i can put only 2000 in for a3 swap parts. Also how well does the a3 respond to bolt ones....since the a2 does EXTREMELY WELL that would be my entire basis for getting it, it is a great n/a engine, does the a3 respond well to bolts on enough to say it would give ti significant hp gains?
If it were me, I would be satisfied with getting a stock k20a3 motor in my car. As far as bolt-ons, do your basic intake/header/exhaust and save your pennies for a2 head and ecu and w/e else you need to make that work. Then go about your boltons for the a2 (which probably all are the same between the a3/a2 [taking a guess anyway])
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Rep Power: 0 oh no dont get me wrong i would be really happy with a a3 with bolt ons im just curious to as what the times would be with a a3....i actually wanna get one over a a2 because its so much cheaper....
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I have the hatch with the a3. It's not bad, but there are a few gripes with it:
low redline of 6800
no vtec kick (sometimes I wonder if there is vtec in it
Otherwise, I find the motor silky smooth in low and mid revs. I plan to have the ecu reprogrammed to raise the redline (hondata), but I'll wait until the warrantee expires. In any case, if you are considering buying an a3, save up some cash on the side so you can upgrade with bolt-ons.
low redline of 6800
no vtec kick (sometimes I wonder if there is vtec in it
Otherwise, I find the motor silky smooth in low and mid revs. I plan to have the ecu reprogrammed to raise the redline (hondata), but I'll wait until the warrantee expires. In any case, if you are considering buying an a3, save up some cash on the side so you can upgrade with bolt-ons.
You won't make the same power by bolting a type s head onto an si shortblock. The type s uses higher compression. If I were to do the swap, I'd go with an si motor and boost it. Then later on, I'd upgrade the head.
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