Running without first o2 right now... NOT GOOD
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Running without first o2 right now... NOT GOOD Ok... i need to have my new o2 bung put onto my downpipe because the old one had to be filled because the bung was in the wrong location and wouldn't fit the o2 sensor in there.... so i got Sh.it outta luck and just drove the car home and drove around town... well it'll boost to about 4K rpms when just taking it slow up into the 4's and then it's like i have a boost leak but checked all my connections and they are tight as can be... and when i try to really get on it for a sec it just studders really bad even at 2500 rpms and kinda chokes itself up till i left off and go slowly through the rpm range....
Question is... is this because my o2 sensor is not in and the CEL is on... therefore the car might be in limp mode and won't let me boost past 4K rpms??? am i correct on my assumptions??? if so lemme know and i will have this taken care of tomorrow!!!! Thanks guys...
Question is... is this because my o2 sensor is not in and the CEL is on... therefore the car might be in limp mode and won't let me boost past 4K rpms??? am i correct on my assumptions??? if so lemme know and i will have this taken care of tomorrow!!!! Thanks guys...
is your computer cutting your car off cause is not reading the correct fuel mixture and is protecting the engine.
Buy a log nut that will screw into your sensor and have a muffler shop welded in just below the down pipe.
That may work.
Buy a log nut that will screw into your sensor and have a muffler shop welded in just below the down pipe.
That may work.
Last edited by Supermex; Aug 6, 2004 at 09:10 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 thanks man... ya i know how ta get an o2 bung and have it welded in to make the o2 sensor work, i just meant could this be the reason my car is acting up??? thanks hector for your input... i'm so stressed right now i just want this thing to run smoothly... for at least a little while... lol
man I feel your pain first off i have a 02 civic ex boosted with a greddy e-manage bigger injecters,modified fuel rail,missing link,my problem is i just got it back from the shop last sat and ran great boosting around 5psi good power no check engine light and the last 3 days my check engine light comes on and when i hit close to 4 grand the engine starts stutering out untill i let out of it then i pull over and dissconect the neg to reset computer 2 min later it would do it again and tonight same thing happend except this time i reset computer drove around for almost an hour and no check engine light the car ran great anybody no what might be going on. 
Originally Posted by hojo35
man I feel your pain first off i have a 02 civic ex boosted with a greddy e-manage bigger injecters,modified fuel rail,missing link,my problem is i just got it back from the shop last sat and ran great boosting around 5psi good power no check engine light and the last 3 days my check engine light comes on and when i hit close to 4 grand the engine starts stutering out untill i let out of it then i pull over and dissconect the neg to reset computer 2 min later it would do it again and tonight same thing happend except this time i reset computer drove around for almost an hour and no check engine light the car ran great anybody no what might be going on.
Try to take the computer fuse off for about 20 sec.
The fuse is a 15amp in the middle of your fuse box inside the hood right on top of your battery.
if you read the bottom of the fuse box lit it will tell you witch one it is.
I'll be turbo charging my car soon and I just know I'll having the same problems.
Keep us posted.
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from my understandings, and from what has happened to me, the car will run incorrectly if the 1st o2 sensor has been removed....it is cool, if it is relocated, but it need to be connected and reading the exhaust....i have removed my 2nd o2 sensor and replaced it with my aem uego wideband, and everything is fine, i have had a cel for a while, but it is because of the IAT sensor....the cars performance has not changed at all with the second o2 sensor removed
speaking of which.. i have a dx and last month i had a straight pipe put in my exhaust system but both O2 sensors are in there... one up by the headers area in the engine bay and one under the car supposedly after the cat but dont have one... my check engine came on a few days after.. is that the cause of check light because its reading the same thing as the first O2 sensor or something or could it be something else
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Rep Power: 0 I'm getting the first o2 relocated on monday morning and having my old greddy exhaust piped back up... and the oil pan will be fixed... my install guy forgot teh two braces that hold it up in place as well... so its leaking like a motha-F-er... then i'll update you guys on my situation...
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Rep Power: 311 Hahaha - this is funny. Goes to show stupid people should not work on cars. The first O2 sensor DETERMINES the A/F ratio for the ECU. If you run without it, the car is going to have a fit. Either pick up a book and read about your car, or have a competent mechanic install your **** for you - plain and simple....
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Originally Posted by REDchirp
I'm getting the first o2 relocated on monday morning and having my old greddy exhaust piped back up... and the oil pan will be fixed... my install guy forgot teh two braces that hold it up in place as well... so its leaking like a motha-F-er... then i'll update you guys on my situation...
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Rep Power: 0 We don't have oil pan gaskets bud... it's a sealant.. and yes i have the OEM oil pan sealant... and i didn't do these installs... i had my highly recommended turbo guy in the area install it.. but i was the first 7thgen he had worked on... so it was somewhat new to him.... and secondly the DP that i got from someone on this site didn't have the hole for an o2 to go into... so i had to get the right sized nut to bring to him tomorrow so he can weld in the bung and then go from there...
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Originally Posted by xproductionz
so if the first sensor reads a/f.. whats the purpose of the second sensor.. i know its after the cat.. but since my car has no cat my engine light turned on??
It's so the ECU can monitor the efficiency if your catalytic converter.
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Rep Power: 0 it just tells teh ECU whether the cat is working properly or not... and which in your case... you don't have one so it is throwing a CEL telling it the cat is not functioning right... btu this sensor will not cause performance changes, or so i've heard
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Originally Posted by opto_isolator
Hahaha - this is funny. Goes to show stupid people should not work on cars. The first O2 sensor DETERMINES the A/F ratio for the ECU. If you run without it, the car is going to have a fit. Either pick up a book and read about your car, or have a competent mechanic install your **** for you - plain and simple....
LMAO, you are teh funny.......
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Originally Posted by jwcardy
there are no braces that hold the oil pan up...those braces that you are talking about are a cover plate for the flywheel and the the other is a gauge for the oil pan....that is not causing your leak...improper installation of your oil pan is where you oil leak is coming from....did you use a new oil pan gasket and torque it to specs...
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Originally Posted by JX6
I am about to get a testpipe,but where is the first o2 Sensor?
Do you have an EX? It's the only plug physically going into the down pipe (B-pipe as the Honda manual states). You can't miss it...
LX/DX are pretty much right near each other.
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Originally Posted by MadWheel
Do you have an EX? It's the only plug physically going into the down pipe (B-pipe as the Honda manual states). You can't miss it...
LX/DX are pretty much right near each other.
LX/DX are pretty much right near each other.
So that's the first 02 sensor. And the second one is in the cat or after?
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