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i dont know if everybody already knows this but for a while i was going to go turbo .. so i emailed a few companies asking about parts that i wanted. i emailed je pistons because i wanted some low comp. pistons. they emailed me back and said that it takes 5 weeks to make custom pistons and that they charge 142 per piston to make. so lets just say your looking at 568 for a set of custom pistsons for our cars. just thought i'd share what they told me.

 
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just curious .. were you able to ask if that includes the Rings also?

 
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hmmm i think u have to buy them seperatly ... thats prob. gonna cost a lil extra since they're custom pistons too. cant be much thou ..i'd guess around 600 then for them.

 
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ring sets prices can vary. i think JEs are about $140 for the rings set.

 
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So you are looking at 700 for pistons and rings.. all you need is rods to fully build a bottom end right.. and those are from crower.. and you can get those for around 600 as well, I think..

 
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$700 is a bit high for piston and rings. We usually go with Arias Pistons and with the volume we do and the custom pistons we use for race applications, I would say prices will be under $600 for a custom set with rings.
and rods are about that much for the Crowers.

 
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Arias pistons... are they reputable?? I have yet to hear about them.

 
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then you have never built or had a engine built for you...yes they are one of the biggest co. next to JE, Crower, Eagle...ect.......so in answer to your question, yes they are very reputable...

 
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Arias is probably the most widely used pistons in most of the Pro-Import racing scene today.
Here's a list of racersjust to give an idea and their 1/4 mile times.
Jotech/Kenny Tran Turbo Civic 8.3s
Bisi Ezerioah All motor Sohc F22 10.0s
Eric Del Rosario TUrbo integra 9.3s
Erick's Racing All motor Civic 9.99s
and countless of other street race motors.
We use Arias on all our race motors and their extensive line of off-the shelf pistons are great.

Generally, most of these other pistons manufacturers are great also, JE, CP, Wiseco, Ross, etc.

 
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here is the info on crower rods btw...

 
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Nope, new to the whole game. The only reason I ask is, for the swap I wanted JE/Crower... Then a friend said I can go a little cheaper and still be okay, and get Wiseco/Eagle combo..


Those are the only 4 companies i've heard of.

 
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ricerocketeer: read up a bit more on the popular brands out there. many are reputable and are of equal top quality, but as a vendor/engine builder.. it does make us feel better that you are educated on the parts that you are getting and the choices that you have.

 
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lol, why would it matter to you, you're getting my money, i'm surprised you could care less what I get.. as long as you make your profit, you are good.

I'm in the process of figuring out what all I need and where I'm gonna get it from.

 
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hehe.. well see thats not how we think and work. We are in our late 20s, early 30s and we've been there. wanting to fix up our cars but only had limited amount of money. so we wanted to get the most out of what we had. and thats what we try to relay in our business as well. to get the most out of your hard earned money. some things arent necesarry, some things are. and we hope as professionals, we can guide our customers to choosing the proper parts they need.

Customer comes to us and asks about a stroker big bore motor for his Civic. i ask what he uses it for. he said just to go back and forth to school. do you race? no not at all, just the occasional stop light races. I was like, we dont recommend doing a motor like that for you. its jsut not practical. there are other ways to do it, make great amount of power but still reliable. the stroker wont be that reliable.

the point is... we arent there to just sell and sell until your wallet or credit runs dry. we see it as providing quality service to fellow enthusiasts.

and no.. just because we have your money is all we care about. we have more heart than that.

 
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i'll eventually be doing some internal work once i get a second car for daily driving, im drivn my turbo civ to work and school everyday so downtie is a no go lol...

but yeah, pistons, rods, and i need a cam shaft bad... after 6000rpms my power just flatlines and dies off...

 
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That's what I like to hear.. I may come to you for my parts, because you just won my damn business right there..

 
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Yeah Exo, I look forward to doing business with you this year.

 
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Okay... enough with low compression.... he he he, I want high compresion pistons. I haven't seen out yet, I also haven't seen any high compression D17's yet. So, what kind of price range are we in for high comprsion pistons and rings? Are these custom and how can I be assured the ring landings or other things won't break (FYI: I'm looking for 200whp - so about 240-245 ponies at the flywheel). I know I'm not pushing the most powerful car here, but it is the first of it's kind with the D17, at least on this site, so I'm careful about what I buy. Thanks

Oh yeah, the real problem I'm having trouble with is traction, anybody reading this got good traction yet? PLEASE let me knoe if you do and what you've done.

 
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The best I ever pulled on my Yokohama Parada Spec-2s was a 0-60ft of 2.2. With turbo, 2.3 (T04B).

Im getting ready to buy some BF Goodrich Comp T/As. I'll let you know how DRs work on the track. I need some motor mounts though, wheel hop sucks.

 
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I'm working on desing a traction bar for my car, only problem is that my car won't have it's big guts for anouther year or so, so I can't test it right now, that's why I'm not doing much witht the design right now, trying to focus on the motor, but like I said, traction is going to be a concern.

What size tire are you running? I'll have a set of "cheat slicks" for race days, prolly RA-1's on 15 inch rims. What I really want is a differenctial though.

Thanks for the info Madwheel

 
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u people are getting ripppppped, i got my JE for 550 bucks rings, pistons and pins. then i wanted them so i overnighted them that cost extra other wise they were shipped for 550, EVERYTHING

 
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Who did you order them through?

How much horsepower is th stock D17 motor's bottom end good for?
How bout the pistons?

 
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i ordered them through a locla shop, and they went through SPD, dont know if they are still around, SPD went through DYNAMIC AUTO SPORTS. i now go straight through dynamic

 
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Where are these guys at?


The bottom end of a D17 can handle around 160-175 ft-lb torque, horse power won't kill your motor, bad tuning and torque will.

 
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A lot of guys on this site are running upwards of 220 ft/lbs of torque @ the crank and not blowing up , the limit has to be a lot more than 160 - 175.
A 50 shot of nitrous will usually yield around 180 ft/lbs at the crank.....
Anyonw else have any idea? So my question now is, how much over 200ft/lbs at the crank, do these motors handle?

 
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No one knows since most people don't have access to test exact ft/lb loads on motors (engine dynos) and then tear down the motors for inspection... Sure some people are running boost around 200ft/lbs, but at what cost of reliability?

There is not enough information available nor enough real testing yet come to a accurate conclusion about how much it can really handle (besides stories like "yeah I'm running 230 ft/lbs and I haven't thrown a rod yet" which proves nothing)....

 
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I wasn't asking for a wild guess, if someone is running 230 ft/lbs for a year, then basically the engine can handle it.

 
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Actually, I don't know to many on here that are running that with stock bottom ends. If you want to talk about Nitrous, that is not continous power. Sure, I could probably put 500 ft-lb on my motor, it might be able to run dwon the 1320... what, about 10 times before I would rebuild it (ohh... that's what drag racer do!!!), that's real reliable!!!

If you want to know where I got my information, it was from Honda. Yeah the people who designed the engine, built the engine, tested the engine, re desinged the engine, rebuilt it and retested so many times it would make your head spin. according to them, the engines can handle about 150% of the torque that they make form the factory with out much drop in reliablity (presuming you tune the engine). Much beyond that and you will start to cause premature ware on the ring landing, rod bolts and everyother part downthere.

So run 200 or 250 ft-lb, let us know how long that last on the stock bottom end. Maybe someone has done it, but just because one person did it does mean you're car can take it. Also ask them how often they drive there car, I know a few turbo guys that drive like 200 mile a month and have their motors torn down all the time.

 
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I don't throw wild guess up... I have connections in side Honda R&D that I talk to once in a while.

 
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Have you met anyone yet that has put a hole in a D17 piston yet? How about a rod through the block?