D17 Haters
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yes! finally people who know what they're talking about.
I bought my car about two months ago, and all Ive heard from this site is how bad the D17 is. Which is hillarious when I swear I was reading about a built D15 putting out mad horsepower a few weeks ago. The gist of that article was about how well honda made the D-series engines. They basically said that the engine is one of the best for those who want to make high,consistent horespower.
Ive just been wondering when someone would have a build up the D17 so the majority of people on here that mod would have no excuse for having a slow ride(my car is slow too but its stock so I have an exuse).
Oh yeah to the guy who wants to do the swap. Some of the stuff you listed can be done cheaper. Like instead of the rsx axles get custom ones. They'll be horsepower rated at whatever you want and They can make them fit whatever you got. Just look around a little.
I bought my car about two months ago, and all Ive heard from this site is how bad the D17 is. Which is hillarious when I swear I was reading about a built D15 putting out mad horsepower a few weeks ago. The gist of that article was about how well honda made the D-series engines. They basically said that the engine is one of the best for those who want to make high,consistent horespower.
Ive just been wondering when someone would have a build up the D17 so the majority of people on here that mod would have no excuse for having a slow ride(my car is slow too but its stock so I have an exuse).
Oh yeah to the guy who wants to do the swap. Some of the stuff you listed can be done cheaper. Like instead of the rsx axles get custom ones. They'll be horsepower rated at whatever you want and They can make them fit whatever you got. Just look around a little.
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Have any of you looked at the date on the last posts??? I actually am just using my '03 civic as a daily driver and am building yet another '94 civic. Some simple math; $2000 for a good civic DX, $1750 for a B16A with a LSD tranny, $568 for N2O... total = $4318, less than a K swap and I've got 2 cars, so when my performance car goes boom, I've still got a car to drive.
Originally Posted by Jrfish007
Have any of you looked at the date on the last posts??? I actually am just using my '03 civic as a daily driver and am building yet another '94 civic. Some simple math; $2000 for a good civic DX, $1750 for a B16A with a LSD tranny, $568 for N2O... total = $4318, less than a K swap and I've got 2 cars, so when my performance car goes boom, I've still got a car to drive.
$1750 will also not get you a b16a with lsd tranny. $1750 MAY get you a 1st gen b16a if you pick it up and no tax, but it will be cable transmission, no lsd and you'll need a shitload of parts to make the transmission work. All B motors will need extra parts to make it work, such as axles, mounts, etc ... not to mention labor.
btw, as far as your signature goes, there are some bone stock srt4's that have run 13.8's.
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Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
2k will not get you a GOOD civic dx ... it will get you a piece of **** with over 100k miles, shitty tires/rims and probably been wrecked. a 92-95 bone stock hatch goes for ~3-5k, I don't know where you pull those numbers from.
2. I'm not sure how much you know about intertia, but smaller tires have less intertia and thus are easier to turn (aka faster). As for a bad tire, I ran a 13.8 on the winter tires that came with the car. I now have 14 inch Toyo RA-1, but have been to busy lately to run it with those, I suspect my et will go down though. bigger is NOT faster with tires/rims, so small rims are good for the quarter mile, not really good for handling, but I never claimed any handling status yet.
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
$1750 will also not get you a b16a with lsd tranny. $1750 MAY get you a 1st gen b16a if you pick it up and no tax, but it will be cable transmission, no lsd and you'll need a shitload of parts to make the transmission work. All B motors will need extra parts to make it work, such as axles, mounts, etc ... not to mention labor.
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
btw, as far as your signature goes, there are some bone stock srt4's that have run 13.8's.
Another thing, remeber forced induction cars have a huge dependance on temperature because it is directly portional to the intercooler effeincy and thus the inlet temperture of the air. Depeneding on how much you know about SRT-4, you may already know it has a feedback system for it's boost control. So if the temperature is cool, it will run at a lowwer boost than at cool temperaure, basically the computer makes sure the same number of oxygen atoms get into the chamber all the time. Then it takes the temperaure of the inlet air and the pressure, calculates the maximum ignition advancement possible. So how do plan to correct for that?
Last edited by Jrfish007; Nov 3, 2004 at 03:00 PM.
^^ where are you located? replacing the suspension costs extra money... the point of your last post was to save money, not spend it, correct? Also, not everybody has access to a welder. The prices you listed are for the cost of parts and not labor
true that smaller is faster, but if you really are running the stock tires, you can't grab traction either. I ran faster with my 16x7.5 225/50/16 goodyear's than with my 185/65/15 15x6 Si rims. Smaller rims are good for high speed freeway runs, not off the line traction.
lsd DOES fit it, but link me to a shop that sells b16 cable lsd trannies. [url=http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=694563]this[/quote] thread proves that they are extremely rare AND expensive. you CAN get an lsd separate from the tranny, but this also disproves your "so much cheaper" argument. Fabricating a hydro clutch line? please post a diy so that everyone can see how to do it. Chances are that people aren't going to want to do it themselves either.
Again, I say that not everyone has access to a cherry picker or a motor stand. If someone were to rent those, it would cost extra money. $4318 for you, but it may be closer to $6000 for someone else due to labor costs... which is on par with a k20a2 swap. Not to mention, you will not have to constantly be refilling a nitrous bottle.
You can NOT say that you are faster than an srt4 because "oh, well maybe it had cooler temperatures that day, so mine is actually faster". That's the biggest pile of bullshit excuse that racers give. If your car was running so hot, do it on a cold day and come back here and post slips instead of crying about how some of them ran faster than you
On the other hand, who really keeps their srt4 stock? an srt with boltons will run low-flat 13's
true that smaller is faster, but if you really are running the stock tires, you can't grab traction either. I ran faster with my 16x7.5 225/50/16 goodyear's than with my 185/65/15 15x6 Si rims. Smaller rims are good for high speed freeway runs, not off the line traction.
lsd DOES fit it, but link me to a shop that sells b16 cable lsd trannies. [url=http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=694563]this[/quote] thread proves that they are extremely rare AND expensive. you CAN get an lsd separate from the tranny, but this also disproves your "so much cheaper" argument. Fabricating a hydro clutch line? please post a diy so that everyone can see how to do it. Chances are that people aren't going to want to do it themselves either.
Again, I say that not everyone has access to a cherry picker or a motor stand. If someone were to rent those, it would cost extra money. $4318 for you, but it may be closer to $6000 for someone else due to labor costs... which is on par with a k20a2 swap. Not to mention, you will not have to constantly be refilling a nitrous bottle.
You can NOT say that you are faster than an srt4 because "oh, well maybe it had cooler temperatures that day, so mine is actually faster". That's the biggest pile of bullshit excuse that racers give. If your car was running so hot, do it on a cold day and come back here and post slips instead of crying about how some of them ran faster than you
On the other hand, who really keeps their srt4 stock? an srt with boltons will run low-flat 13's
jrfish007. couldnt agree more on a b16 in a bubble. if i had the money i would do up one and keep the d17 as a DD. but o well i cant so turbo this weekend will be installed, im hoping.
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Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
^^ where are you located? replacing the suspension costs extra money... the point of your last post was to save money, not spend it, correct? Also, not everybody has access to a welder. The prices you listed are for the cost of parts and not labor
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
true that smaller is faster, but if you really are running the stock tires, you can't grab traction either. I ran faster with my 16x7.5 225/50/16 goodyear's than with my 185/65/15 15x6 Si rims. Smaller rims are good for high speed freeway runs, not off the line traction.
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
lsd DOES fit it, but link me to a shop that sells b16 cable lsd trannies. [url=http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=694563]this thread proves that they are extremely rare AND expensive. you CAN get an lsd separate from the tranny, but this also disproves your "so much cheaper" argument. Fabricating a hydro clutch line? please post a diy so that everyone can see how to do it. Chances are that people aren't going to want to do it themselves either.
Below is a link to a shop in Cali. that sells Honda motors, they are a bit pricy, but look at the difference between the Oh so rare LSD B16 ($2200) and the "common" B16 ($1800), that's only $400 for an LSD http://www.inlinefour.com/motors.html
Below is a link to Hasports kit for this conversion. If you look at the hydrolic line to cable clutch. It consist of 2 brackets and a "push rod." If you have any skill with a chop saw and drill press you can make the brackets, I used a plasma cutter and drill press, but you I'm sure you point out not everyone has one of those (I should also comment that the plasma cutter and welder are not actually mine, I go to work and use them during the weekend. I'm sure though that everybody knows someone who knows someone who has one or something along those lines). The "push rod," you cna buy at Granger.com, it's just a hydrolic piston with a base, I got one from the Mechanical engineering department though, so I don't know the actual cost, probably about $25 or so.
http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Installs/egbcc_install.htm
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
Again, I say that not everyone has access to a cherry picker or a motor stand. If someone were to rent those, it would cost extra money. $4318 for you, but it may be closer to $6000 for someone else due to labor costs... which is on par with a k20a2 swap. Not to mention, you will not have to constantly be refilling a nitrous bottle.
Originally Posted by aznboysrfr
You can NOT say that you are faster than an srt4 because "oh, well maybe it had cooler temperatures that day, so mine is actually faster". That's the biggest pile of bullshit excuse that racers give. If your car was running so hot, do it on a cold day and come back here and post slips instead of crying about how some of them ran faster than you
On the other hand, who really keeps their srt4 stock? an srt with boltons will run low-flat 13's
On the other hand, who really keeps their srt4 stock? an srt with boltons will run low-flat 13's
By the way, if temperature didn't mean anything, why did everybody run almost 0.2 seconds slower that day than their fastest times? My comment is that I was fast than that SRT-4 on that day 3 times in a row, and the other driver had about the same experiance I do. Certialy some SRT-4's are faster than others, Honda is know to be the same way, one civic may run 16.8, another 16.9. I never claimed to be fast than every SRT-4, you just can't read.
Here is a link to a few people who have ran their SRT-4's in stock trim (this is just a google search). A dyno shop said their's only ran a 14.4, two people said 14.5, and one person said 13.69. So why are all these people running different times? Perhaps you know the big secert of racing that no drag racer knows, in that case please do share!!!
http://members3.boardhost.com/importcars/msg/222.html
....
Originally Posted by Jrfish007
NE Ohio. I did get the motor through a friend of a friend deal. From my I have also priced shops in my area too. I did it installed for 1500+250(axels)+50(mount) =$1800. A shop by me called Rim and Trim (in Medina, Canton, and Doublin (?)) said they would do it for $2200+300 (total of $2500 intstalled), thats a 700 dollar difference. Below is a link to a shop in Cali. that sell motors, they are a bit pricy, but look at the difference between the Oh so rare LSD B16 ($2200) and the "common" B16 ($1800), that's only $400 for an LSD http://www.inlinefour.com/motors.html
$400 is a bit to add, would you not say? that does put your $4318 price tag up to $4718, NOT including shipping, labor or other misc. parts that need to be added. "4718" seems like you made it a precise number, so an extra $25 here and $50 here does add up.
Lets not forget the B16 is NOT a torque monster, it makes a whole 111 ft/lb (estimated by Honda and the flywheel), and that's not even untill almost the 5000RPM range. 7thgens have more torque than I do with that motor. With an LSD, and no torque I have no tire spin. You just siad a smaller tire is better at "highway speeds," I'm going to make an assumption and figure that you ment it is good at high RPM's where the motor is high horsepower and low torque, well isn't that what a B16 is all about?
please post your time slips then. I'm curious to see what they look like. I find it a little hard to believe if you can get a 2.2 or lower 60' foot time on stock tires. I would hardly call a b16 high horsepower. I would gladly take a k20a3 over a b16 anyday. There are all kinds of legality problems with it. People on ebay and other places have sold K20a3's for $2000. In fact, if you ask em2guy, he will install his k20a3 WITH hondata into your car for $4500.
I DID realize that a b16 is not a torque monster. Nitrous with an n/a car IS, in my opinion, the best way to go for a car to achieve the quickest times comfortably (ie. without spinning the tires all the way down the track). Don't misunderstand me ... I DO actually think a b16 n2o setup is a very good, comfortable setup ... but again, not as good as the potentially better alternatives with a k20 motor.
Below is a link to a shop in Cali. that sells Honda motors, they are a bit pricy, but look at the difference between the Oh so rare LSD B16 ($2200) and the "common" B16 ($1800), that's only $400 for an LSD http://www.inlinefour.com/motors.html
Below is a link to Hasports kit for this conversion. If you look at the hydrolic line to cable clutch. It consist of 2 brackets and a "push rod." If you have any skill with a chop saw and drill press you can make the brackets, I used a plasma cutter and drill press, but you I'm sure you point out not everyone has one of those (I should also comment that the plasma cutter and welder are not actually mine, I go to work and use them during the weekend. I'm sure though that everybody knows someone who knows someone who has one or something along those lines). The "push rod," you cna buy at Granger.com, it's just a hydrolic piston with a base, I got one from the Mechanical engineering department though, so I don't know the actual cost, probably about $25 or so.
http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Installs/egbcc_install.htm
I just mentioned one shop that would do the motor swap for $2500, 500 for N2O, 2000 for the car, you're at $5000. Yes that is the cost of a K20, but I do to much with my car to say it will be running all the time, maybe I want a new suspension or new cam... this way I have a good reliable car and a "toy." It's a personal opinion, but I would rather have 2 cars than one.
we still have a big flaw of having to refill the nitrous bottle every 10-20 runs ... to some, it's not practical, but to each their own. In the words of Catalyst regarding n2o users, "you're only fast when you hit the button"
Since you know so much about racing, what do you run? where are you time slips? What the fastest car you've ever had? Anyone can talk from the side lines, but untill they get off their rear end do something other than talk, they are just a nobody wanting to be a somebody. You should wait to talk until you have experience about what you are talking about. I've been drag racing for 9 years and am tired of people saying they know what they are talking about when they don't have a clue.
I used to have an sf turbo kit running at 7 psi, no power steering, 16x7.5" SSR Competition's on Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires with minor weight reduction to my car. I never got a chance to run my car, but I will definitely do it with my upcoming k20 swap which should be and running in about 6 weeks. I wouldn't call myself a drag racer, but I would call myself someone who will have a good run on the streets.
What have you owned? Do you have any slips of your previous cars? Drag racing for 9 years? You must have a pretty good history. I'd love to hear about it.
By the way, if temperature didn't mean anything, why did everybody run almost 0.2 seconds slower that day than their fastest times? My comment is that I was fast than that SRT-4 on that day 3 times in a row, and the other driver had about the same experiance I do. Certialy some SRT-4's are faster than others, Honda is know to be the same way, one civic may run 16.8, another 16.9. I never claimed to be fast than every SRT-4, you just can't read.
Here is a link to a few people who have ran their SRT-4's in stock trim (this is just a google search). A dyno shop said their's only ran a 14.4, two people said 14.5, and one person said 13.69. So why are all these people running different times? Perhaps you know the big secert of racing that no drag racer knows, in that case please do share!!!
http://members3.boardhost.com/importcars/msg/222.html
Correct. An srt4 with a very good driver is said to run about 13.7-8 on the track, depending on conditions. Running on par with a good-driver's srt4 should not be considered to be "faster than a stock srt4". Instead of making excuses as to why you ran a 13.9x instead of a 13.7x, you should go run, post a slip and then confirm your win ... not say "I'm actually faster, but I wasn't because it was hot out"
Why are they running different times? Different drivers, different conditions. But you already knew that.
$400 is a bit to add, would you not say? that does put your $4318 price tag up to $4718, NOT including shipping, labor or other misc. parts that need to be added. "4718" seems like you made it a precise number, so an extra $25 here and $50 here does add up.
Lets not forget the B16 is NOT a torque monster, it makes a whole 111 ft/lb (estimated by Honda and the flywheel), and that's not even untill almost the 5000RPM range. 7thgens have more torque than I do with that motor. With an LSD, and no torque I have no tire spin. You just siad a smaller tire is better at "highway speeds," I'm going to make an assumption and figure that you ment it is good at high RPM's where the motor is high horsepower and low torque, well isn't that what a B16 is all about?
please post your time slips then. I'm curious to see what they look like. I find it a little hard to believe if you can get a 2.2 or lower 60' foot time on stock tires. I would hardly call a b16 high horsepower. I would gladly take a k20a3 over a b16 anyday. There are all kinds of legality problems with it. People on ebay and other places have sold K20a3's for $2000. In fact, if you ask em2guy, he will install his k20a3 WITH hondata into your car for $4500.
I DID realize that a b16 is not a torque monster. Nitrous with an n/a car IS, in my opinion, the best way to go for a car to achieve the quickest times comfortably (ie. without spinning the tires all the way down the track). Don't misunderstand me ... I DO actually think a b16 n2o setup is a very good, comfortable setup ... but again, not as good as the potentially better alternatives with a k20 motor.
Below is a link to a shop in Cali. that sells Honda motors, they are a bit pricy, but look at the difference between the Oh so rare LSD B16 ($2200) and the "common" B16 ($1800), that's only $400 for an LSD http://www.inlinefour.com/motors.html
Below is a link to Hasports kit for this conversion. If you look at the hydrolic line to cable clutch. It consist of 2 brackets and a "push rod." If you have any skill with a chop saw and drill press you can make the brackets, I used a plasma cutter and drill press, but you I'm sure you point out not everyone has one of those (I should also comment that the plasma cutter and welder are not actually mine, I go to work and use them during the weekend. I'm sure though that everybody knows someone who knows someone who has one or something along those lines). The "push rod," you cna buy at Granger.com, it's just a hydrolic piston with a base, I got one from the Mechanical engineering department though, so I don't know the actual cost, probably about $25 or so.
http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Installs/egbcc_install.htm
I just mentioned one shop that would do the motor swap for $2500, 500 for N2O, 2000 for the car, you're at $5000. Yes that is the cost of a K20, but I do to much with my car to say it will be running all the time, maybe I want a new suspension or new cam... this way I have a good reliable car and a "toy." It's a personal opinion, but I would rather have 2 cars than one.
we still have a big flaw of having to refill the nitrous bottle every 10-20 runs ... to some, it's not practical, but to each their own. In the words of Catalyst regarding n2o users, "you're only fast when you hit the button"
Since you know so much about racing, what do you run? where are you time slips? What the fastest car you've ever had? Anyone can talk from the side lines, but untill they get off their rear end do something other than talk, they are just a nobody wanting to be a somebody. You should wait to talk until you have experience about what you are talking about. I've been drag racing for 9 years and am tired of people saying they know what they are talking about when they don't have a clue.
I used to have an sf turbo kit running at 7 psi, no power steering, 16x7.5" SSR Competition's on Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires with minor weight reduction to my car. I never got a chance to run my car, but I will definitely do it with my upcoming k20 swap which should be and running in about 6 weeks. I wouldn't call myself a drag racer, but I would call myself someone who will have a good run on the streets.
What have you owned? Do you have any slips of your previous cars? Drag racing for 9 years? You must have a pretty good history. I'd love to hear about it.
By the way, if temperature didn't mean anything, why did everybody run almost 0.2 seconds slower that day than their fastest times? My comment is that I was fast than that SRT-4 on that day 3 times in a row, and the other driver had about the same experiance I do. Certialy some SRT-4's are faster than others, Honda is know to be the same way, one civic may run 16.8, another 16.9. I never claimed to be fast than every SRT-4, you just can't read.
Here is a link to a few people who have ran their SRT-4's in stock trim (this is just a google search). A dyno shop said their's only ran a 14.4, two people said 14.5, and one person said 13.69. So why are all these people running different times? Perhaps you know the big secert of racing that no drag racer knows, in that case please do share!!!
http://members3.boardhost.com/importcars/msg/222.html
Correct. An srt4 with a very good driver is said to run about 13.7-8 on the track, depending on conditions. Running on par with a good-driver's srt4 should not be considered to be "faster than a stock srt4". Instead of making excuses as to why you ran a 13.9x instead of a 13.7x, you should go run, post a slip and then confirm your win ... not say "I'm actually faster, but I wasn't because it was hot out"
Why are they running different times? Different drivers, different conditions. But you already knew that.
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No I don't think 400 (300 in most cases) isn't that bad for the extra traction and handling (but my car doesn't handle that well for a Honda due to stock wornout bushings)
I'm not arguing the K20 motor is better than the B16, it better be, otherwise why would Honda have replaced it? I'm not tring to argue that a B16 is better than a K20, just by the time you add up the car price, motor, and other stuff, the B16 in an EG is gonna cost less than a 7thgen with a K20, an '01 DX goes for what 5K?
I agree with the nitrous thing, yes I do have to fill it all the time. Summit racing is about 10 minutes for me, so I can get it filled easily during my lunch. And 160hp in a 2000 lb car is quick, not vette fast, but it's quick.
As for cars I've had, there are a few, but my fastest was a '70 Camaro that snapped the drive shaft. My grand mother used to be engaged to Don Garlits, and he's still a family friend. The motor in that camaro was one of his motors. As far as Hondas, I had a '94 DX before this one running a B16 with Spoon cams and ITR final drive, someone stole it a actually knew enough to advance the timing, they just didn't account for the fact I already did that, thus the motor was junked. I had a turbo '92 civic EX, hated it, rebuilt the motor three times (my own fualt though, to much boos and didn't back off the timing enough). That's some of the better ones, as for time slips, I'm at work right now. If I have any at home I'll look tonight, but I recently moved, new job = new house.
My 0-60' times are not that great, remember until I hit about 60MPH, I just running a B16 EG, and they generally run about 15-16ish depending on how lucky you are with your B16, mine runs a 15.9 without N2O (remember my car is one of the lightest civics made since '92) I believe my 0-60' time was more like 2.4 or so, but I'm not sure, I most pay attention to the end time and once in a while the 1/8 mile time. Like I siad, I look for it tonight, but it's probably packed away since it's about 5 months old. If I wasn't in the middle of a bad semester in I would take one weekend night and run it, but I think most tracks are about to close for the season.
And don't get me wrong, I don't think my car is that "hot." Actually I think it is very slow for what it has. Consider this, the Zex car (which is a EG DX model) has a D16 VTEC motor with a shot of N2O and run's 13.1 with a cam, their spark plugs and flywheel. I don't have a link because they have since swaped a B18 into it and are running high 12's. I have a B16 with a bigger shot on nitrous, why is mine so slow? I have many thoughts, but I'm not going into those.
No I don't think 400 (300 in most cases) isn't that bad for the extra traction and handling (but my car doesn't handle that well for a Honda due to stock wornout bushings)
I'm not arguing the K20 motor is better than the B16, it better be, otherwise why would Honda have replaced it? I'm not tring to argue that a B16 is better than a K20, just by the time you add up the car price, motor, and other stuff, the B16 in an EG is gonna cost less than a 7thgen with a K20, an '01 DX goes for what 5K?
I agree with the nitrous thing, yes I do have to fill it all the time. Summit racing is about 10 minutes for me, so I can get it filled easily during my lunch. And 160hp in a 2000 lb car is quick, not vette fast, but it's quick.
As for cars I've had, there are a few, but my fastest was a '70 Camaro that snapped the drive shaft. My grand mother used to be engaged to Don Garlits, and he's still a family friend. The motor in that camaro was one of his motors. As far as Hondas, I had a '94 DX before this one running a B16 with Spoon cams and ITR final drive, someone stole it a actually knew enough to advance the timing, they just didn't account for the fact I already did that, thus the motor was junked. I had a turbo '92 civic EX, hated it, rebuilt the motor three times (my own fualt though, to much boos and didn't back off the timing enough). That's some of the better ones, as for time slips, I'm at work right now. If I have any at home I'll look tonight, but I recently moved, new job = new house.
My 0-60' times are not that great, remember until I hit about 60MPH, I just running a B16 EG, and they generally run about 15-16ish depending on how lucky you are with your B16, mine runs a 15.9 without N2O (remember my car is one of the lightest civics made since '92) I believe my 0-60' time was more like 2.4 or so, but I'm not sure, I most pay attention to the end time and once in a while the 1/8 mile time. Like I siad, I look for it tonight, but it's probably packed away since it's about 5 months old. If I wasn't in the middle of a bad semester in I would take one weekend night and run it, but I think most tracks are about to close for the season.
And don't get me wrong, I don't think my car is that "hot." Actually I think it is very slow for what it has. Consider this, the Zex car (which is a EG DX model) has a D16 VTEC motor with a shot of N2O and run's 13.1 with a cam, their spark plugs and flywheel. I don't have a link because they have since swaped a B18 into it and are running high 12's. I have a B16 with a bigger shot on nitrous, why is mine so slow? I have many thoughts, but I'm not going into those.
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Posts: 4,111
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
Rep Power: 328 wow this is quite the feud. you guys seem to agree, just disagreeing on whats being argued. but eh...
about the cost issue, stuff is cheaper in OH than in CA, for sure. cost of living. and the fact that imports aren't all that big.
and ohio tracks have got to be closed. they started closing back in early october. but JRFish007, hit me up in april and we can organize a 7th gen k20 versus an F/I b16. lol i'd probably lose in this case, but it'd be a close, fun race. i should have hondata by then, i'll heat wrap an intake, and maybe if i have the $ a header. that ought to get me low 14's.
about the cost issue, stuff is cheaper in OH than in CA, for sure. cost of living. and the fact that imports aren't all that big.
and ohio tracks have got to be closed. they started closing back in early october. but JRFish007, hit me up in april and we can organize a 7th gen k20 versus an F/I b16. lol i'd probably lose in this case, but it'd be a close, fun race. i should have hondata by then, i'll heat wrap an intake, and maybe if i have the $ a header. that ought to get me low 14's.
Registered!!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Socal,Cali
Rep Power: 0 wow was I wrong!
You guys are gay!
Your arguing about prices, and wheather his car could beat a srt-4.
The prices for the engine and stuff that was mentioned earlier. I can get everything listed for right about 2K or less (Parts). No special hookups or anything. Just knowing where to look. So stop you bitching!
The rest is too lame to comment on.
You guys are gay!
Your arguing about prices, and wheather his car could beat a srt-4.
The prices for the engine and stuff that was mentioned earlier. I can get everything listed for right about 2K or less (Parts). No special hookups or anything. Just knowing where to look. So stop you bitching!
The rest is too lame to comment on.
Originally Posted by drjvic04
wow was I wrong!
You guys are gay!
Your arguing about prices, and wheather his car could beat a srt-4.
The prices for the engine and stuff that was mentioned earlier. I can get everything listed for right about 2K or less (Parts). No special hookups or anything. Just knowing where to look. So stop you bitching!
The rest is too lame to comment on.
You guys are gay!
Your arguing about prices, and wheather his car could beat a srt-4.
The prices for the engine and stuff that was mentioned earlier. I can get everything listed for right about 2K or less (Parts). No special hookups or anything. Just knowing where to look. So stop you bitching!
The rest is too lame to comment on.
Join Date: Sep 2004
that explains it.
Its a celebration bitches!
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 1
From: LA, CALi
Rep Power: 402 its not really about the power you can bring out of a k, b or H series. Yea i know that b series is cheaper and more things are out for it. but whats going to happen in 3 years when the supply of b series extra trannies and motors gets very rare? are you going to spend lots of money to rebuild the tranny you just screwed up with your 500 hp monster b series engine? or would it be cheaper to just buy another one?
the k series might be a new engine but look at what people have done with it so far, in this short amount of time
the k series might be a new engine but look at what people have done with it so far, in this short amount of time
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