Rep Power: 0

i tried using 4-8-b and now the activity light just flashes.. even when i put it back to 4-8-c

did i mess up the emanage?

when on 4-8-b the car would try to start but would die instantly....

i put it back to 4-8-c and everything seems to be running fine!!! =) i think....

edit:

oh crap... the red light is flashing really really fast on the activity light but the car is running... what does this mean? i know the manual says turn the car off immediatly... hrmmm....

 
Rep Power: 0

The flashing red light indicates that an error code has been logged. You need to turn the car off, then turn the ignition to the ON position and watch the e-Manage status light. It will blink out the error code.

E.g., blink-blink-blink-blink <pause> blink-blink-blink-blink

means error code 44.

HTH,
--jB

 
Rep Power: 0

motherf.er !@ with the car turned off and the key to the ignition, it flashes red for .5 sec, hold for 1 sec, flash .2 .2 .2, hold for 3-4 seconds.. repeat.. i cant find anywhere in the manual what error code this is... man im screwed. i know the wiring is right. i disconnect the emanage from the emanage harness and tap the map input and output for normal thru to the ecu also the vtec and the vtm wire to bypass the emanage totally and the car works fine! idles good, tap the gas, does what it's supposed to... no CEL whatsoever...

GRRRRR.. im stopping for the night... talk about stressed out man.

 
Rep Power: 0

and i cant find anywhere in the support tool where the error codes are like it says in the manual... greddy kiss my ***.

edit:

no matter what i do the emanage still doees the same blink when in ingition and fast red when turned on... but when put back to stock everything runs perfect... ill wait for responses b4 i post more than i already have.. in the meantime.. my oil filter block adapter will be here tomorrow so ill just tinker with that... who knows? maybe my oil pressure is gonna be where its supposed to be.. if thats the case i dunno .. too tired to think anymore. gnight.

ps- i should have never tried to put it on 4-8-b

edit again:

how do i make the emanage go back to green steady light like it was before? the only thing i changed, the ONLY thing i changed that made it flash red was changing the rotary switch from 4-8-C to 4-8-B! but i changed it back to 4-8-C so why is it still doing this???

i tried redownloading the firmware to see if it would fix it... the only thing it does after i update it is make the activity light flash grean constantly with the ignition switch. but right after i start the car on settings 4-8-C, the red light comes back and then the red code comes back... i dont even know what the code is... gah ok.. sleep for real now.

 
Rep Power: 0

Dude, here's your problem...

You are getting error code 13 (according to the flashes you described). It's listed in the main unit manual.

That error code says "Karman Vortex sensor input error - Incorrect wiring or disconnected Karmen Signal. Incorrect Jumper setting (JP4)".

We have MAP sensors, NOT Karman Vortex (MAF) sensors. You have the jumpers telling the e-Manage to read a MAF sensor signal.

Fix that first.

HTH,
--jB

 
Rep Power: 0

yea i saw that but theres one more added flash it does at the end of those short 3... so its not error code 13... plus, my jumper is set right for jp4 1-2... boosted had different jumper settings so im going to try to see if his will work for me...

 
Rep Power: 0

so i set jp4 to 2-3 and back to 4-8-b and so far so good, the car is at idle no cel yet but the activity light is flashing green just a steady inda fast blink blink blink, repeat... is this good or bad?

when i first started the car initially, the light was a steady green... i dont get it. i know someone knows...

 
Rep Power: 0

so i went for a drive and the light still was blinking green... the car would bog if i tried to floor it and when i change gears if i dont add gas while changing gears the car dies.... wtf...

i dont think its this but since my cat is bored out.. could this be the problem?

only reason why i dont think it is is because when i change everything back to stock, i dont have problems...


edit:

i have the MIL eliminator from bigjoshracing but havent put that on yet,... should i?

 
Rep Power: 0

put an o2 sim on the cat and it still doesnt work...

 
Rep Power: 0

gonna run ecu stock til i get things figured out.. the oil pressure gauge is installed and it reads 40psi at idle but goes all the way up to 100psi when i rev... do i need to bleed the air out of the line to the gauge? i see air pockets mixed with the oil...

edit:

bled the air out and now its at 33-35psi idle and goes to about 80psi at 3k rpms...

 
Rep Power: 350

Is it a manual or electric oil pressure gauge? Mine's electric and it reads around 12 psi at idle and depending on how high it take the rpms, it goes up from there.

 
Rep Power: 0

manual... its at around 20 psi idle after the car warms up...

 
Rep Power: 0

so i cant get this emanage to work.. im even part of the yahoo groups for the emanage and still no luck with finding the answers i need... is it pointless to even take to the dyno at this point? or is adjusting my cam gear good enuff? =/

 
Rep Power: 413

Don't adjust your cam gear unless you really know what you're doing, aka cam timing vs powerband vs etc etc.....

 
Rep Power: 312

Rob-

I'd recommend seeing if there is any places near you that can tune / test the emanage properly. It sounds like you are having difficulties. I wish I was closer to help you out - but the best thing for you to do is to either call a shop or have them look at it, otherwise you may just end up blowing up the motor (which would suck after all of that money you spent on it!)...

 
Rep Power: 0

COOL!!! ok so i got my emanage to work while i was at the dyno... lol dont ask me what was wrong it it but its fixed now... get ready for the numbers lol... 171/143 !!! HAHAHAH i know what youre thinking... but its all good. I was running low boost and I have to bring it back to KMS this saturday to get my oil leak problem fixed and readjust stuff, ie valves and the cam gear.--- next dyno run Ill have all my harnesses connected so i will be looking around the 300's or so...

 
Rep Power: 0

keep us updated ^^

 
Rep Power: 0

#1 right click save as

#2 right click save as






I'll keep you updated on more to come... btw.. was only at 5psi... and since its a new crank and the cam gear was at 0 degrees, it makes a huge difference...

the only way i can make the huge power though is to get rid of the rev limiter. all the parts inside can handle to 9800rpms... i NEED to figure out a way to get RID of this. anyone know how to do it with only the stock ecu and emanage??

 
Rep Power: 302

good numbers for 5 psi.. I hope everything works out for you Robb!

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks bro =)

 
Rep Power: 0

do you have any other photos of your car?

 
Rep Power: 0

looks like your motors mounts will break very soon looking at those videos, you should probably upgrade them or something, because thats mass that the engine is moving and you dont want that, because it takes power away from the flywheel.

 
Rep Power: 0

hehe ya.. among other things i need like axles..

 
Rep Power: 0

some at www.robbcortez.com or under member rides i think..

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks

 
Rep Power: 413

You're running close to 13:1, which is dangerously lean.... just be careful.... lean is fast, but lean is a blowup waiting to happen....

 
Rep Power: 0

uh huh

 
Rep Power: 0

If you look at the numbers 15psi should put you around 300whp and 20psi should just be sick around 350whp.

My e-people bow to you. I would say you got us all beat.. For now.

 
Rep Power: 0

sounds good
only cause i couldn't see the video
good luck wit the rest of your tuning

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks bro... its divx file