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f.vck... so what do i do? install the emanage and tow to dyno and wait more and more? =*(

 
Rep Power: 584

mind u the emange comes with NO BASE maps for our cars, u have to create ur own map, and then every where there is a bump in the ride, u have to go in and fix it, then try creating maps that will incorporate different boost settings, i have one map for 5 psi and 9 psi, then i have a seperate map for 14, have to load the map in in order the do the 14 psi

 
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omg.. i have no tuning experience... <cries>

 
Rep Power: 584

then if u mess with the timing, and then the vtec engagement stuff goes on and on

 
Rep Power: 584

in no way shape of form is it a plug and play, plus ur going to have to have the support tool, which goes on a laptop, or the EO1 boost controller, and id hate to have to tune the thing with the EO1, so small screen and god it would be a pain

 
Rep Power: 0

ive got the support tool with my laptop...

 
Rep Power: 350

Hey, Robb, something I would highly recommend that you pick up is a wideband o2 tuning system. They are a little pricey for a good one but you can save yourself alot of money that would have otherwise been spent on dyno time. Not to mention it's an easy tool to use, depending on which unit you get. Then once you get it as close as you can with the wideband, if you have the ability to datalog, then you should make a few dyno pulls and can tune for more power at that point.

 
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cool thanks... ill look into it... about to leave to go do this thing.. =)

 
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so i picked my car up! =) i was having a cel of vtec rear something and realized that when i took off the vafc, i forgot to put the blue vtm wire connection together... well its sitting in my driveway, running at 2 psi boost if that. tuning is scheduled on the 11th at 1pm est time from ed at balanced performance. now all i have to do is put the emanage together. =) john at kms said it would be ok to drive it.. i put 120 miles on the new engine already... 900 to go... but he drove it, i drove it... just told me to watch for it leaning out and to baby it like a new motor cuz it is one... i mean, its basically at stock with no boost.... no knocking no detonation or anything...

 
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sounds mean too btw... =p

 
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mine is quiet til boost starts kickin, then the exhaust gets louder, i dont like exhaust to rumble my *** anyways, so im happy with my sound, then again i like the BOV too

 
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omg. thank god i drove my car under 3k the whole time back... my boost gauge wasnt working so i popped the hood and saw that the bov, sf fuel system, and boost gauge werent even connected to the vacuum line. well, i tapped those into the vacuum line, went for a test drive and omg, it pulls so hard, i was tryring to baby it, really i was. man there was soo much pull and so much pressure that the intake bonnet popped of of the TB. so yea... i turned the boost way down and reconnected the bonnett very securely. im just happy that nothing got jacked on the drive home the whole time it was like that. i have thursday and friday off so im going to dedicate all that time to really sit down and install the emanage with all the harnesses... then i need to get my CF hood ordered, and replace my skunk2's with the neuspeed race springs that have been sitting in the garage for 8 months.

Hey Madwheel,

How did your emanage install go? Did ya do it yet?

 
Rep Power: 413

I would be STOKED if I had just got my car back from not having it for 8 months...

 
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im lovin' it

 
Rep Power: 350

Hey Robb, do me a favor. Next time you talk to the guy that did your work at kms, ask him what sleeves he used. I know you told me that you thought he fabricated them but I would think that if he fabbed them, he would have fabbed everything in your motor. From your description, I'd bet they're golden eagles. But let me know, either way, ok.

 
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k, ill find out later. but bad news...

my oil light is on by my cel... wtf... it flickers then goes away... not sure what it could be so im going to make sure the oil psi is at least 40.... gonna get the crap i need to check it. this sucks. and i have some speed sonsor malfunction code too.. and a too rich in rear bank code... which is better than it being lean i guess...

 
Rep Power: 350

For the oil light flickering, check your oil pressure sending unit to make sure it's screwed in tight and the connector is tight on the sender. As far as your rich codes, that is very possible. I have the same code and I can't seem to get rid of it. With some tuning, it should fix that problem. Your speed sensor has a plug that sits right on top of the tranny next to the im on the passenger side of the engine bay. If the sensor is bad, you may need to replace it. Like I said to you yesterday, pull your ecu out. Go over the entire harness and make sure all of your wires are connected and solder them together. Good luck, you have my number if you need any more help.

 
Rep Power: 0

hey =) my sensor did go bad, the speed sensor.... so i have that on order to replace... other than that its only the rich code... and for some strange reason, the oil light goes off right away like it should... so maybe it was something loose...

I NEED NEED to put my oil pressure gauge in somewhere but cant seem to find a 't' fitting that can feed off the oil sender port to connect inline with the oil pressure line... the fittings are all so different... have any idea on how I could do this? i tried seeing if i could find a 10mm male/female t thread to go to the vtec oil port on the passenger side to tap it in there but had no luck finding a t fitting with 10mm female, 10 mm male and 1/4 or 1/8 female thread to even tap it in there... what do i do? help!

 
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ok i take that back... when the key is in the ignition switch setting, the oil light doesnt even come on... if i remember correctly all the lights come on til u turn the car on and then they go away right away... but even after turning the car on, the oil light doesnt even show up to go away.. wtf...

 
Rep Power: 350

Not sure of where to tell you to check in your area for brass "T" fittings. Check plumbing supplies for them. You'll want one for your stock oil sender, then run another one off of that for your oil pressure sender for the gauge. I had a place in Colorado where I could find them but I don't know where to tell you to look where you're at. Shouldn't be too tough though, it's a pretty common fitting, just make sure to use teflon tape on it.

As far as the oil light...if you turn the key to where the rest of the indicators on your gauges come on, the oil indicator light should as well. Then when you start the engine, they should all fade away. Like I said, if it isn't doing this, check your wiring from the stock sender to the ecu.

 
Rep Power: 0

AH!!!!!! ok.. i put my car in my garage on jack stands so i can get under my car. im going to check and recheck everything ... as far as the tap thing, im gonna go with something like this eventually http://www.greddy.com/products/produ...roductidx=1475
... gonna look at mcmaster.com to see what i need to get... off hand do u know the fitting for the oil sender i need?

is this diagram ok enuff? im trying hard guys.. reallly i am and i appreciate all your help!

 
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ok ok.. heres a link can someone who knows their shi.t fill it out? i dont wanna fuc.k it up and i need to get this pressure thing check out so i can get it dynoed on schedule this tuesday...

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ps...assppf;138=733

 
Rep Power: 350

Here you go, Rob, I'm going to make this super easy on you.
Oil Block
Pick up one of these and stick it between your filter and your block. You can run your oil pressure sender and your oil feed line for your turbo off of it. It's a little pricey but it saves you the hassle of having to mess with several fittings between the block and firewall. Order that with express shipping and it'll maybe take you 10 minutes to install and you don't have to search for brass fittings or sizes.

 
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the picture doesnt do it justice lol.... is it the same thing as this?

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/prod...ckadapter.html

 
Rep Power: 350

Exact same thing. That's probably the easiest thing for you to do.

 
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hey i ordered a greddy 1 from titan in florida so ill get that in tomorrow...

 
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i also got an obd2 scanner for 100 bucks... i redid and checked all the harness connections and now i dont have anymore speed sensor error... hrmmm.... just gonna do the emanage harness today til i get the oil filter adapter for the oil pressure gauge. =0

 
Rep Power: 350

Glad to see that you're paying attention, lol. As far as a diagram of the ecu wiring, I would highly recommend picking up a Helms manual for the 7th gen.

 
Rep Power: 0

i have one... kms still has it.. oops.

 
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ok .... i took a multimeter to the emanage harness to the ecu harnesses to see if there was proper contact.... there IS. the rotary settings im using are 4-8-C BUT my car isnt running right.... it will idle fine but when i tap the gas, the rpms jump and then bog down almost to a stall then back to idle. all the wires are in the correct spot per opto and the helm manual... my jumper settings inside are as follows:

JP1 = 1/2
JP2= 1/2
JP3= 2/3
JP4= 1/2
JP5= OPEN
JP6= OPEN
JP7= OPEN

I know opto is using the rotary settings that i have right now 4-8-C... but would that make a difference in that he doesn't have vtec?

Are there other rotary switches that I can try to correct this problem? I have no engine codes and my activity light is green on the emanage.

I have the SF kit and a 2002 EX...
I NEED to have this up and running by sunday night because i am scheduled for tuning this tuesday... And I still have to put my oil pressure gauge, injector harness, ignition harness, and pressure sensor on...

please help if you can.