Head help...Replacing HG...
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Rep Power: 302 Head help...Replacing HG...
I got the valve cover off... Anyone know the sequence for removing the head bolts? I am probably going to torque them down to 51 ft/lbs. Im assuming the reassembly sequence is the same order as taking them off, but reversed? Thanks guys.
BTW - Any quick tips to save me time would be great! lol
Any suggestions on cam timing? I know I gotta take the belt off but what's the best way I can go about making sure the cam gear is at the proper point for ressambly.
Thank you for any help!
BTW - Any quick tips to save me time would be great! lol
Any suggestions on cam timing? I know I gotta take the belt off but what's the best way I can go about making sure the cam gear is at the proper point for ressambly.
Thank you for any help!
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Rep Power: 0 Re: Head help...Replacing HG...
Originally posted by MadWheel
I got the valve cover off... Anyone know the sequence for removing the head bolts? I am probably going to torque them down to 51 ft/lbs. Im assuming the reassembly sequence is the same order as taking them off, but reversed? Thanks guys.
BTW - Any quick tips to save me time would be great! lol
Any suggestions on cam timing? I know I gotta take the belt off but what's the best way I can go about making sure the cam gear is at the proper point for ressambly.
Thank you for any help!
I got the valve cover off... Anyone know the sequence for removing the head bolts? I am probably going to torque them down to 51 ft/lbs. Im assuming the reassembly sequence is the same order as taking them off, but reversed? Thanks guys.
BTW - Any quick tips to save me time would be great! lol
Any suggestions on cam timing? I know I gotta take the belt off but what's the best way I can go about making sure the cam gear is at the proper point for ressambly.
Thank you for any help!
alex
281-357-0555
9am-6pm CST
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Rep Power: 302 If anyone still wants to answer by all means post up. I can find any torque specs online.
Whenever I get them though, I'll post up in this thread for other people that do the heads. Lata
Whenever I get them though, I'll post up in this thread for other people that do the heads. Lata
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by MadWheel
If anyone still wants to answer by all means post up. I can find any torque specs online.
Whenever I get them though, I'll post up in this thread for other people that do the heads. Lata
If anyone still wants to answer by all means post up. I can find any torque specs online.
Whenever I get them though, I'll post up in this thread for other people that do the heads. Lata
undo the bolts working the inside out.
redo the bolts working in a crisscross pattern inside to the outside. Think of it as pressing out the gasket. Start at 16 then 29 then 49 using a wrench. I torqued mine down to 51 after setting all to 49.
Good luck and buy a shop book.
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Rep Power: 302 Re: Re: Head help...Replacing HG...
Originally posted by HTOWNBOY
bro, if u want to. u can give me call at my shop and i'll give u the specs.
alex
281-357-0555
9am-6pm CST
bro, if u want to. u can give me call at my shop and i'll give u the specs.
alex
281-357-0555
9am-6pm CST
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Rep Power: 0 I just replaced mine yesterday. You are supposed to loosen the head bolts 1/3 turn at a time until all are loose. the bolt pattern is
7 3 1 5 9
10 6 2 4 8
The problem I had was after I put everything together the car wouldn't run. After troubleshooting it, I found that my timing was off. I had to take the valve cover and all that shi t off again. To fix it I set the #4 piston to TDC then put the belt back on and when you tighten the belt it rotates the everything into place.
After I did that I started the car with the valve cover off, just to make sure every thing was good. I should have done that the first time.
Have fun
btw...good call on buying the book. that thing has EVERYTHING to do with the car in it.
7 3 1 5 9
10 6 2 4 8
The problem I had was after I put everything together the car wouldn't run. After troubleshooting it, I found that my timing was off. I had to take the valve cover and all that shi t off again. To fix it I set the #4 piston to TDC then put the belt back on and when you tighten the belt it rotates the everything into place.
After I did that I started the car with the valve cover off, just to make sure every thing was good. I should have done that the first time.
Have fun
btw...good call on buying the book. that thing has EVERYTHING to do with the car in it.
Last edited by fuchs; 04-18-2004 at 07:19 AM.
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Rep Power: 302 I did my HG. Finally got it running perfect today. Car runs like a champ. Also, the intake manifold bolt on the bottom center is a beyotch lol...
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Rep Power: 302 Yeah man there's so much to remove. The ignition wires... I took my PS pump off and got that out of the way, i marked the cam gear, pulled of a bunch of hoses, took the intake and exhaust manifold off (with the TB and fuel rail still attached to the IM). I also had to take the whole coolant system off the left side of the car... Made things a lot easier for me. Either way... here's my news on the gasket... All four mini gaskets around the pistons were blown wide open on the intake side. You could actually see where it melted/burnt off. Hopfully the nippon one doesn't do that. BTW - My intake manifold gasket was also blown. I replaced that, and got rid of the SF map sensor "mask" thing if you will. The car actually responds better without it and so far no CEL. I'll set the voltage clamp on my emanage when I get that installed to definately prevent and codes from being thrown.
GL and PM me if you have any questions.
GL and PM me if you have any questions.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by MadWheel
Yeah man there's so much to remove. The ignition wires... I took my PS pump off and got that out of the way, i marked the cam gear, pulled of a bunch of hoses, took the intake and exhaust manifold off (with the TB and fuel rail still attached to the IM). I also had to take the whole coolant system off the left side of the car... Made things a lot easier for me. Either way... here's my news on the gasket... All four mini gaskets around the pistons were blown wide open on the intake side. You could actually see where it melted/burnt off. Hopfully the nippon one doesn't do that. BTW - My intake manifold gasket was also blown. I replaced that, and got rid of the SF map sensor "mask" thing if you will. The car actually responds better without it and so far no CEL. I'll set the voltage clamp on my emanage when I get that installed to definately prevent and codes from being thrown.
GL and PM me if you have any questions.
Yeah man there's so much to remove. The ignition wires... I took my PS pump off and got that out of the way, i marked the cam gear, pulled of a bunch of hoses, took the intake and exhaust manifold off (with the TB and fuel rail still attached to the IM). I also had to take the whole coolant system off the left side of the car... Made things a lot easier for me. Either way... here's my news on the gasket... All four mini gaskets around the pistons were blown wide open on the intake side. You could actually see where it melted/burnt off. Hopfully the nippon one doesn't do that. BTW - My intake manifold gasket was also blown. I replaced that, and got rid of the SF map sensor "mask" thing if you will. The car actually responds better without it and so far no CEL. I'll set the voltage clamp on my emanage when I get that installed to definately prevent and codes from being thrown.
GL and PM me if you have any questions.
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Rep Power: 302 Thanks man haha.
To be honest I've never even dealt with timing before this project took me a lot longer than normal haha.. But it looks good, drove the car for over an hour on the highway in 80 degree weather, then sat directly in traffic right after that. Temp gauge was at about 35-40% of peak. Made me proud
To be honest I've never even dealt with timing before this project took me a lot longer than normal haha.. But it looks good, drove the car for over an hour on the highway in 80 degree weather, then sat directly in traffic right after that. Temp gauge was at about 35-40% of peak. Made me proud
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by MadWheel
Thanks man haha.
To be honest I've never even dealt with timing before this project took me a lot longer than normal haha.. But it looks good, drove the car for over an hour on the highway in 80 degree weather, then sat directly in traffic right after that. Temp gauge was at about 35-40% of peak. Made me proud
Thanks man haha.
To be honest I've never even dealt with timing before this project took me a lot longer than normal haha.. But it looks good, drove the car for over an hour on the highway in 80 degree weather, then sat directly in traffic right after that. Temp gauge was at about 35-40% of peak. Made me proud
That gies to show it can be a DIY just a very pain in the *** DIY. Lot of little things to be removed to get to the head.
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Rep Power: 302 Yeah man I hear that. My car is pretty loud now so I didn't want to start it at 4am once i finished and wake my parents up lol...
I TRIED to sleep all night... slept for about 2 hours, daylight came and I got up and went straight to the car with my keys lol... Started then died instantly. My battery is in the trunk and my inline fuse on the 4awg ps wire blew. I thought i messed up my motor I was ready to cry. Couple minor things had to be tweaked/fixed but then I was good to go. Car runs like it's stock!!! no delay in throttle response, stays nice and cold too.
BTW - I took off the little isolator valce that SF ships to "mask" boost from your MAP sensor. Put the stock MAP back in without the isolator... Car runs BETTER than with the isolator, and still no CEL. I've hit 5psi once. Been babying it lol... I wont floor the car till my emanage is installed and my ignition timing is retarded back. .
I TRIED to sleep all night... slept for about 2 hours, daylight came and I got up and went straight to the car with my keys lol... Started then died instantly. My battery is in the trunk and my inline fuse on the 4awg ps wire blew. I thought i messed up my motor I was ready to cry. Couple minor things had to be tweaked/fixed but then I was good to go. Car runs like it's stock!!! no delay in throttle response, stays nice and cold too.
BTW - I took off the little isolator valce that SF ships to "mask" boost from your MAP sensor. Put the stock MAP back in without the isolator... Car runs BETTER than with the isolator, and still no CEL. I've hit 5psi once. Been babying it lol... I wont floor the car till my emanage is installed and my ignition timing is retarded back. .
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