Help...Return System
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Help...Return System Yo when I get my SF turbo, I want to do a return fuel system and I want to tune it...what do I need to tune my car with my SF turbo kit...I'm a newbie so I might not know what I'm talking about...somebody guide me and lead me....
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Rep Power: 0 opto isolator has a return fuel system and i'm pretty sure one or two more members do too. they will be able to answer all of your questions. you can also run a search for return fuel system.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
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Originally posted by JetBlu01
Yo when I get my SF turbo, I want to do a return fuel system and I want to tune it...what do I need to tune my car with my SF turbo kit...I'm a newbie so I might not know what I'm talking about...somebody guide me and lead me....
Yo when I get my SF turbo, I want to do a return fuel system and I want to tune it...what do I need to tune my car with my SF turbo kit...I'm a newbie so I might not know what I'm talking about...somebody guide me and lead me....
- The flashing button knows how to cure your stupidity.... 
Why are you wanting to run a return fuel system, Jet? Is that what the geniouses in Kutsuju told you? 
lease: 
I give you two months before your motor is blown.......
You need to wise up and listen to people who know what they're talking about. Otherwise, you're going to wish you had kept your car stock.
lease: I give you two months before your motor is blown.......
You need to wise up and listen to people who know what they're talking about. Otherwise, you're going to wish you had kept your car stock.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by andyman97
Why are you wanting to run a return fuel system, Jet? Is that what the geniouses in Kutsuju told you?lease:
Why are you wanting to run a return fuel system, Jet? Is that what the geniouses in Kutsuju told you?
lease: Originally posted by JetBlu01
not exactly pal...Jake (with the SRT4) asked me about it... Okay this is my question...Am I going to be able to get my car tuned?
not exactly pal...Jake (with the SRT4) asked me about it... Okay this is my question...Am I going to be able to get my car tuned?
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I just answered this from a previous PM from someone else, so I'll copy and paste. This is the most basic way of explaining.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hmmmm... I can't really give you part for part since my list is somewhere other than here. You can get every single part from Jegs.com though. You don't really need a parts list, because you can make one on your own... it really all depends on what you are using, doesn't have to be the same as anyone elses. I stuck with all -AN fittings, others used NPT because they are cheaper. But basically, you need to work out a diagram to decide what you want to use.
You'll need:
Weld in fitting for the fuel rail. One side has to have the same thread size as the SS line you are attaching it to. Mine was possible -6AN. That line needs to go to the inlet of the FPR.
I used an Aeromotive Boost Reference FPR. I think the threads on it are NPT, so you'd need to get an adapter to convert the -AN fitting on the line, to the NPT fitting on the FPR. The same would apply for the FPR outlet. Then you just run a line from the outlet, under the car, and to the fuel tank. You have to drill the top of the fuel unit for the return. What I did was get a fitting with a hose nipple at a 90 degree angle. The threaded part went through the cover, then i added rubber o-rings outside and inside the cover, and put a nut on the threaded part and tightened it to creat a seal. It worked great. Then just put the end uf the fuel line on the hose nipple and tighten it with a fuel hose clamp. Or if you felt like it, you could get a fitting and a hose end and just screw it on.
Other than that, you have to block of the intank fpr off. If you put the output of it into a vise, you can squeeze it shut, nothing will come out. You should also cut off the stock lines in the tank and replace them with high pressure fuel hose. You HAVE TO make sure the clamps you use are tight. Tug on them pretty hard and make sure they don't slip off.
I used a Wablro 255lph pump for a 2000 Civic. You basically get rid of everything that holds the oem fuel pump inside the casing, minus the pastic rings that hold it in place. Then, you attach the fuel hose directly to the pump itself and run the line out. You have to do it that way because the pump isn't a direct fit, and if you try to hook up the hose to the original plastic fitting, it will just back out and fuel pressure will drop enough to casue a really lean condition. Then, just up the fuel pressure to 45psi on the FPR and you're good to go.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can use whatever you want to tune, VAFC, SAFC, Emanage, etc etc.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hmmmm... I can't really give you part for part since my list is somewhere other than here. You can get every single part from Jegs.com though. You don't really need a parts list, because you can make one on your own... it really all depends on what you are using, doesn't have to be the same as anyone elses. I stuck with all -AN fittings, others used NPT because they are cheaper. But basically, you need to work out a diagram to decide what you want to use.
You'll need:
Weld in fitting for the fuel rail. One side has to have the same thread size as the SS line you are attaching it to. Mine was possible -6AN. That line needs to go to the inlet of the FPR.
I used an Aeromotive Boost Reference FPR. I think the threads on it are NPT, so you'd need to get an adapter to convert the -AN fitting on the line, to the NPT fitting on the FPR. The same would apply for the FPR outlet. Then you just run a line from the outlet, under the car, and to the fuel tank. You have to drill the top of the fuel unit for the return. What I did was get a fitting with a hose nipple at a 90 degree angle. The threaded part went through the cover, then i added rubber o-rings outside and inside the cover, and put a nut on the threaded part and tightened it to creat a seal. It worked great. Then just put the end uf the fuel line on the hose nipple and tighten it with a fuel hose clamp. Or if you felt like it, you could get a fitting and a hose end and just screw it on.
Other than that, you have to block of the intank fpr off. If you put the output of it into a vise, you can squeeze it shut, nothing will come out. You should also cut off the stock lines in the tank and replace them with high pressure fuel hose. You HAVE TO make sure the clamps you use are tight. Tug on them pretty hard and make sure they don't slip off.
I used a Wablro 255lph pump for a 2000 Civic. You basically get rid of everything that holds the oem fuel pump inside the casing, minus the pastic rings that hold it in place. Then, you attach the fuel hose directly to the pump itself and run the line out. You have to do it that way because the pump isn't a direct fit, and if you try to hook up the hose to the original plastic fitting, it will just back out and fuel pressure will drop enough to casue a really lean condition. Then, just up the fuel pressure to 45psi on the FPR and you're good to go.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can use whatever you want to tune, VAFC, SAFC, Emanage, etc etc.
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From: Louisiana
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by andyman97
A return line is not necessarry for 10 psi or less. You're getting SF's kit and it will have a fuel pump good for 10 psi. You will be able to tune it as long as you have something to tune with. You'll need something to read your air fuel ratio (either a wideband or a dyno machine.) And you will need something to adjust your injector pulse (greddy emanage or vafc.) Running a return line will not make it easier to tune, it will give you more options to supply more fuel. I plan on tuning mine as soon as I can afford some dyno time, should run me about 150 or so.
A return line is not necessarry for 10 psi or less. You're getting SF's kit and it will have a fuel pump good for 10 psi. You will be able to tune it as long as you have something to tune with. You'll need something to read your air fuel ratio (either a wideband or a dyno machine.) And you will need something to adjust your injector pulse (greddy emanage or vafc.) Running a return line will not make it easier to tune, it will give you more options to supply more fuel. I plan on tuning mine as soon as I can afford some dyno time, should run me about 150 or so.
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Pretty much all of your questions have been answered before. You really need to search...
Edit: And I also think that Alex's post on the return system should become a stickey
Edit: And I also think that Alex's post on the return system should become a stickey
Last edited by Havok2k1; Apr 8, 2004 at 01:39 PM.
Ok, Jet, I'm not trying to be a ****, I have tried to help you from the start. It seems like you don't want an answer but you want someone to do everything for you. The best advice I can give you is to read around this site. You won't find more info on your car anywhere like you will here. Every question about turbo setups has been asked and answered several times within this forum.
If you had a more specific question, or something you don't understand, I would gladly answer but if you aren't doing the research yourself, you aren't learning anything and if you don't learn anything, everytime you have issues, you won't know what's going on and you're going to have to learn about it the hard way. This is all to help you from making careless mistakes that cost you an engine.
If you had a more specific question, or something you don't understand, I would gladly answer but if you aren't doing the research yourself, you aren't learning anything and if you don't learn anything, everytime you have issues, you won't know what's going on and you're going to have to learn about it the hard way. This is all to help you from making careless mistakes that cost you an engine.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by andyman97
Ok, Jet, I'm not trying to be a ****, I have tried to help you from the start. It seems like you don't want an answer but you want someone to do everything for you. The best advice I can give you is to read around this site. You won't find more info on your car anywhere like you will here. Every question about turbo setups has been asked and answered several times within this forum.
If you had a more specific question, or something you don't understand, I would gladly answer but if you aren't doing the research yourself, you aren't learning anything and if you don't learn anything, everytime you have issues, you won't know what's going on and you're going to have to learn about it the hard way. This is all to help you from making careless mistakes that cost you an engine.
Ok, Jet, I'm not trying to be a ****, I have tried to help you from the start. It seems like you don't want an answer but you want someone to do everything for you. The best advice I can give you is to read around this site. You won't find more info on your car anywhere like you will here. Every question about turbo setups has been asked and answered several times within this forum.
If you had a more specific question, or something you don't understand, I would gladly answer but if you aren't doing the research yourself, you aren't learning anything and if you don't learn anything, everytime you have issues, you won't know what's going on and you're going to have to learn about it the hard way. This is all to help you from making careless mistakes that cost you an engine.
SRT-4 owner with 2MCHPSI
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From: your g/f house, Louisiana, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by truehonda
You can tune it with an SAFC -- done.
let me know if you want one bud.
Eddie
You can tune it with an SAFC -- done.
let me know if you want one bud.Eddie
oh and jet...dude.. if you dont plan to build your motor, then just stick with the sf fuel setup and get you an vafc or safc2 or one of the those little computers witha bunch of letters for a name and tune that biotch...you know that i am doing the return setup and you can come down when i do it and stay at the house...we can call it a tech day for you....me and andy will help you with anything that you need to know....but he is right....if i were you, i would soak up everything on here about tuning and turbos....and get involved in others building their cars...that is the best way to learn...
SRT-4 owner with 2MCHPSI
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From: your g/f house, Louisiana, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by Boosted2k2
I just answered this from a previous PM from someone else, so I'll copy and paste. This is the most basic way of explaining.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hmmmm... I can't really give you part for part since my list is somewhere other than here. You can get every single part from Jegs.com though. You don't really need a parts list, because you can make one on your own... it really all depends on what you are using, doesn't have to be the same as anyone elses. I stuck with all -AN fittings, others used NPT because they are cheaper. But basically, you need to work out a diagram to decide what you want to use.
You'll need:
Weld in fitting for the fuel rail. One side has to have the same thread size as the SS line you are attaching it to. Mine was possible -6AN. That line needs to go to the inlet of the FPR.
I used an Aeromotive Boost Reference FPR. I think the threads on it are NPT, so you'd need to get an adapter to convert the -AN fitting on the line, to the NPT fitting on the FPR. The same would apply for the FPR outlet. Then you just run a line from the outlet, under the car, and to the fuel tank. You have to drill the top of the fuel unit for the return. What I did was get a fitting with a hose nipple at a 90 degree angle. The threaded part went through the cover, then i added rubber o-rings outside and inside the cover, and put a nut on the threaded part and tightened it to creat a seal. It worked great. Then just put the end uf the fuel line on the hose nipple and tighten it with a fuel hose clamp. Or if you felt like it, you could get a fitting and a hose end and just screw it on.
Other than that, you have to block of the intank fpr off. If you put the output of it into a vise, you can squeeze it shut, nothing will come out. You should also cut off the stock lines in the tank and replace them with high pressure fuel hose. You HAVE TO make sure the clamps you use are tight. Tug on them pretty hard and make sure they don't slip off.
I used a Wablro 255lph pump for a 2000 Civic. You basically get rid of everything that holds the oem fuel pump inside the casing, minus the pastic rings that hold it in place. Then, you attach the fuel hose directly to the pump itself and run the line out. You have to do it that way because the pump isn't a direct fit, and if you try to hook up the hose to the original plastic fitting, it will just back out and fuel pressure will drop enough to casue a really lean condition. Then, just up the fuel pressure to 45psi on the FPR and you're good to go.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can use whatever you want to tune, VAFC, SAFC, Emanage, etc etc.
I just answered this from a previous PM from someone else, so I'll copy and paste. This is the most basic way of explaining.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hmmmm... I can't really give you part for part since my list is somewhere other than here. You can get every single part from Jegs.com though. You don't really need a parts list, because you can make one on your own... it really all depends on what you are using, doesn't have to be the same as anyone elses. I stuck with all -AN fittings, others used NPT because they are cheaper. But basically, you need to work out a diagram to decide what you want to use.
You'll need:
Weld in fitting for the fuel rail. One side has to have the same thread size as the SS line you are attaching it to. Mine was possible -6AN. That line needs to go to the inlet of the FPR.
I used an Aeromotive Boost Reference FPR. I think the threads on it are NPT, so you'd need to get an adapter to convert the -AN fitting on the line, to the NPT fitting on the FPR. The same would apply for the FPR outlet. Then you just run a line from the outlet, under the car, and to the fuel tank. You have to drill the top of the fuel unit for the return. What I did was get a fitting with a hose nipple at a 90 degree angle. The threaded part went through the cover, then i added rubber o-rings outside and inside the cover, and put a nut on the threaded part and tightened it to creat a seal. It worked great. Then just put the end uf the fuel line on the hose nipple and tighten it with a fuel hose clamp. Or if you felt like it, you could get a fitting and a hose end and just screw it on.
Other than that, you have to block of the intank fpr off. If you put the output of it into a vise, you can squeeze it shut, nothing will come out. You should also cut off the stock lines in the tank and replace them with high pressure fuel hose. You HAVE TO make sure the clamps you use are tight. Tug on them pretty hard and make sure they don't slip off.
I used a Wablro 255lph pump for a 2000 Civic. You basically get rid of everything that holds the oem fuel pump inside the casing, minus the pastic rings that hold it in place. Then, you attach the fuel hose directly to the pump itself and run the line out. You have to do it that way because the pump isn't a direct fit, and if you try to hook up the hose to the original plastic fitting, it will just back out and fuel pressure will drop enough to casue a really lean condition. Then, just up the fuel pressure to 45psi on the FPR and you're good to go.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can use whatever you want to tune, VAFC, SAFC, Emanage, etc etc.
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From: Louisiana
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by jwcardy
oh and jet...dude.. if you dont plan to build your motor, then just stick with the sf fuel setup and get you an vafc or safc2 or one of the those little computers witha bunch of letters for a name and tune that biotch...you know that i am doing the return setup and you can come down when i do it and stay at the house...we can call it a tech day for you....me and andy will help you with anything that you need to know....but he is right....if i were you, i would soak up everything on here about tuning and turbos....and get involved in others building their cars...that is the best way to learn...
oh and jet...dude.. if you dont plan to build your motor, then just stick with the sf fuel setup and get you an vafc or safc2 or one of the those little computers witha bunch of letters for a name and tune that biotch...you know that i am doing the return setup and you can come down when i do it and stay at the house...we can call it a tech day for you....me and andy will help you with anything that you need to know....but he is right....if i were you, i would soak up everything on here about tuning and turbos....and get involved in others building their cars...that is the best way to learn...
LOL...jfwy Originally posted by JetBlu01
thanx man...dont plan on doing anything to the motor except for PNP and maybe upgraded throttle body and some cams and probably couple other things....yeah I'm just going to pick your brain and andy's since you guys are local...thanx for the help now TAKE YOUR A$$ AND ANDY'S A$$ WITH YOU TO THE TRACK LOL...jfwy
thanx man...dont plan on doing anything to the motor except for PNP and maybe upgraded throttle body and some cams and probably couple other things....yeah I'm just going to pick your brain and andy's since you guys are local...thanx for the help now TAKE YOUR A$$ AND ANDY'S A$$ WITH YOU TO THE TRACK
LOL...jfwy 
On my car of course.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by andyman97
I haven't heard of anyone that makes a turbo cam but if you find one and you buy more than one cam I'll help you install the 2d one
On my car of course.
I haven't heard of anyone that makes a turbo cam but if you find one and you buy more than one cam I'll help you install the 2d one
On my car of course.
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