Some boost and swap Questions
Some boost and swap Questions
I tried searching but had no luck in answering some of these questions..
Im in the same boat as many people were or still are.. deciding between the k20 swap or turbo... but i was wondering-- how long would a turbo engine last mileage wise as a daily driver?? estimated? also- does swapping your engine affect any insurance rates?
Im in the same boat as many people were or still are.. deciding between the k20 swap or turbo... but i was wondering-- how long would a turbo engine last mileage wise as a daily driver?? estimated? also- does swapping your engine affect any insurance rates?
The turbo engine will last plenty long if you aren't abusing it, and if it's been properly tuned and can handle whatever amount of boost you run.
Swapping your engine will affect your insurance rates if you decide to insure your engine, which given the comparative values of d17's and k20's, would be a good idea.
Swapping your engine will affect your insurance rates if you decide to insure your engine, which given the comparative values of d17's and k20's, would be a good idea.
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there is no real way to determine how long a turbo motor will last. It depends how you treat it, if you get sick of 5psi and jack it up to 8psi its not gonna last as long. I'd sugest that if you really want your motor to last you a while when you turbo it to look into some internals.
Look into a block guard, a better head gasket, maybe better pistons and sleaves. Now the pistons/sleaves aren't exactly nessesary, but its a nice precaution. Theres gonna be people who say you don't need that stuff, but no one here has had their cars turboed for a couple years...
And on the k20....my insurance didn't go up..
Look into a block guard, a better head gasket, maybe better pistons and sleaves. Now the pistons/sleaves aren't exactly nessesary, but its a nice precaution. Theres gonna be people who say you don't need that stuff, but no one here has had their cars turboed for a couple years...
And on the k20....my insurance didn't go up..
Yea my insurance didnt go up with my swap. In fact, they wouldnt even cover it. Oh well.
Im talking to someone right now thats interested in my motor setup that had a turbo on his Civic and has had nothing but problems. He has finally seen the light, and is strongly considering a swap.
Im talking to someone right now thats interested in my motor setup that had a turbo on his Civic and has had nothing but problems. He has finally seen the light, and is strongly considering a swap.
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boost is you best bet. 5-6 psi is easily a safe amount of boost for daily driving and you'll be able to hang with 90% of the cars you encounter.
alright ya i think ill just go boosted even though a swap would be beautiful
and gives a higher potential for the car.. less money and more whp.. i do wonder how much it would put out at a low psi though... my car only has a few miles on it , new 04 so i dont want to beat the engine too bad
and gives a higher potential for the car.. less money and more whp.. i do wonder how much it would put out at a low psi though... my car only has a few miles on it , new 04 so i dont want to beat the engine too bad If you are going to boost it would be best to do an engine build up, especially if you are concerned about engine longevity. It is a simple fact that a motor that is not built for boost will not last as long as it was originally intended too if it is boosted. Once you boost the costs will rise and the engine swap would look a lot more feasable. Besides boost is addicting, you'll always want more.......
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Originally posted by wzcb08
If you are going to boost it would be best to do an engine build up, especially if you are concerned about engine longevity. It is a simple fact that a motor that is not built for boost will not last as long as it was originally intended too if it is boosted. Once you boost the costs will rise and the engine swap would look a lot more feasable. Besides boost is addicting, you'll always want more.......
If you are going to boost it would be best to do an engine build up, especially if you are concerned about engine longevity. It is a simple fact that a motor that is not built for boost will not last as long as it was originally intended too if it is boosted. Once you boost the costs will rise and the engine swap would look a lot more feasable. Besides boost is addicting, you'll always want more.......
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Originally posted by wzcb08
Besides boost is addicting, you'll always want more.......
Besides boost is addicting, you'll always want more.......
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Originally posted by wzcb08
If you are going to boost it would be best to do an engine build up, especially if you are concerned about engine longevity. It is a simple fact that a motor that is not built for boost will not last as long as it was originally intended too if it is boosted. Once you boost the costs will rise and the engine swap would look a lot more feasable. Besides boost is addicting, you'll always want more.......
If you are going to boost it would be best to do an engine build up, especially if you are concerned about engine longevity. It is a simple fact that a motor that is not built for boost will not last as long as it was originally intended too if it is boosted. Once you boost the costs will rise and the engine swap would look a lot more feasable. Besides boost is addicting, you'll always want more.......
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Originally posted by Hawk
when did you put a turbo on that thing?
when did you put a turbo on that thing?
Is this some sort of N/A rally I see?
Turbo setups can be very reliable if done right. IMO 95% of the problem is improper installation or pushing the engine past what it can handle. I won't boost past 7 psi with my setup until I am ready to face the consequences.
Sorry to hear you sold your setup boosted2k2.
Turbo setups can be very reliable if done right. IMO 95% of the problem is improper installation or pushing the engine past what it can handle. I won't boost past 7 psi with my setup until I am ready to face the consequences.
Sorry to hear you sold your setup boosted2k2.
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Originally posted by dober
Is this some sort of N/A rally I see?
Turbo setups can be very reliable if done right. IMO 95% of the problem is improper installation or pushing the engine past what it can handle. I won't boost past 7 psi with my setup until I am ready to face the consequences.
Sorry to hear you sold your etup boosted2k2.
Is this some sort of N/A rally I see?
Turbo setups can be very reliable if done right. IMO 95% of the problem is improper installation or pushing the engine past what it can handle. I won't boost past 7 psi with my setup until I am ready to face the consequences.
Sorry to hear you sold your etup boosted2k2.
Originally posted by SpdRcrChk
I agree. Although most will be happy w/about 180 N/A, this doesn't mean eventually...you wont want more power too. Chances are you will either build that motor (n/a)...or go boost anyway.
I agree. Although most will be happy w/about 180 N/A, this doesn't mean eventually...you wont want more power too. Chances are you will either build that motor (n/a)...or go boost anyway.
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I don't have either on my car... but I had a '94 civic with a B16A with CTR cams and ITR final drive and a '95 d16 turbo. The turbo was nice, but the d motors just didn't rev high enough and have a large enough power band for me, but I just wanted to go on mid-ohio's track, not drag. Both of the setups where fast, but the N/A was more fun.
But we have two diferent motors here and I don't know if it's fare to compare with a generation of civics that are a decade old now
But we have two diferent motors here and I don't know if it's fare to compare with a generation of civics that are a decade old now
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I don't have either on my car... but I had a '94 civic with a B16A with CTR cams and ITR final drive and a '95 d16 turbo. The turbo was nice, but the d motors just didn't rev high enough and have a large enough power band for me, but I just wanted to go on mid-ohio's track, not drag. Both of the setups where fast, but the N/A was more fun.
But we have two diferent motors here and I don't know if it's fare to compare with a generation of civics that are a decade old now
But we have two diferent motors here and I don't know if it's fare to compare with a generation of civics that are a decade old now
Originally posted by dober
Is this some sort of N/A rally I see?
Turbo setups can be very reliable if done right. IMO 95% of the problem is improper installation or pushing the engine past what it can handle. I won't boost past 7 psi with my setup until I am ready to face the consequences.
Is this some sort of N/A rally I see?
Turbo setups can be very reliable if done right. IMO 95% of the problem is improper installation or pushing the engine past what it can handle. I won't boost past 7 psi with my setup until I am ready to face the consequences.
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Originally posted by JetBlu01
so I shouldnt boost past 7psi...I was looking to run 7psi daily and 9-10psi at the track...
so I shouldnt boost past 7psi...I was looking to run 7psi daily and 9-10psi at the track...
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Don't know if you need alchol injection.... but retard the timing yes.
All the alcohol wil do is present denotation, I don't know your area, but if you can get 93 octane or better, I would think you could run 9-10 psi. Most track in my area offer 101-110 octane, I just go in with an empty tank fill up with 101 and crank the boost when I had my old turbo civic. Oh yeah, I did retard the timining too.
All the alcohol wil do is present denotation, I don't know your area, but if you can get 93 octane or better, I would think you could run 9-10 psi. Most track in my area offer 101-110 octane, I just go in with an empty tank fill up with 101 and crank the boost when I had my old turbo civic. Oh yeah, I did retard the timining too.
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Detonaion is what blows head gaskets... I get 93 octane here, and I posted that a while ago but no one thought you could run 9-10 wihtout alcohol, but I guess you may be able to if you retard the ignition. I was running 7psi on 93 octane fuel and blew the head gasket doing so.
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Was the timing retarded enough and how was your cooling system?
This a real touchy subject because in order to give a good recommendation, you need to know your cooling upgrads, exact timing (not just how much you retarded it is), A/F ratio and countless other little things. You can even get as technical as spray patern of the injector, because pressurized systems are suppose to use a different spay patern than N/A. Anyway it's hard to say with out know ALL the mods done and exact settings.
This a real touchy subject because in order to give a good recommendation, you need to know your cooling upgrads, exact timing (not just how much you retarded it is), A/F ratio and countless other little things. You can even get as technical as spray patern of the injector, because pressurized systems are suppose to use a different spay patern than N/A. Anyway it's hard to say with out know ALL the mods done and exact settings.
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lol... a noob... ha ha ha
You have to have some sort of igntion system. I'm not sure if the kit you are looking at comes with one, but if not a MSD kit will do fine. Then it just depends on what the kit uses, some use a ***, other are digital. The important thing to do is to take to a shop and have the timing checked once the system is installed and before you run hard. Compare the current timing to the stock, I generally run .5 to 1 degrees retarded pre psi compared to stock timing. So at 7 psi, I would run 7 degrees retarded, although with higher octane you can go less with the retard timing. So if you run 7 retarded on psi with 93 octane, with 101 octane you may be able to run 10 psi on the 7 degree setting. Key word being MAY. I don't have experience with this particualr motor, but it can't be far from the d16 I did.
The other big thing everyone around seems to leave out on these threads is cooling. Turbos trap a lot of heat and it will disapate into both manifold and even the heads if not take care of properly. There's a list of things you should do for this if you want your car to run on boost daily and be reliable. With out cooling you will degrade the valve seals and valve guides, after 5k miles you'll be back asking why you have smoke coming out the rear end of your car...
I'll look around for the stuff I already posted and post a link if I can find it concerning the cooling issue.
But if you go through the fuel system upgrade, ingtion upgrade, and cooling upgrades, you should have no problems.
You have to have some sort of igntion system. I'm not sure if the kit you are looking at comes with one, but if not a MSD kit will do fine. Then it just depends on what the kit uses, some use a ***, other are digital. The important thing to do is to take to a shop and have the timing checked once the system is installed and before you run hard. Compare the current timing to the stock, I generally run .5 to 1 degrees retarded pre psi compared to stock timing. So at 7 psi, I would run 7 degrees retarded, although with higher octane you can go less with the retard timing. So if you run 7 retarded on psi with 93 octane, with 101 octane you may be able to run 10 psi on the 7 degree setting. Key word being MAY. I don't have experience with this particualr motor, but it can't be far from the d16 I did.
The other big thing everyone around seems to leave out on these threads is cooling. Turbos trap a lot of heat and it will disapate into both manifold and even the heads if not take care of properly. There's a list of things you should do for this if you want your car to run on boost daily and be reliable. With out cooling you will degrade the valve seals and valve guides, after 5k miles you'll be back asking why you have smoke coming out the rear end of your car...
I'll look around for the stuff I already posted and post a link if I can find it concerning the cooling issue.
But if you go through the fuel system upgrade, ingtion upgrade, and cooling upgrades, you should have no problems.
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MSD WILL NOT WORK WITH OUR CARS YET. They currently do not offer anything that can do it. The emanage will though, providing you buy the ignition harness.


