When would you put a turbo on?
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I have the cash to put a turbo on now. (went ot the boat and hit big last night!!
)
what i was wondering is when is a good time to [ut on a turbo?
Would you wait until you a pretty good amount of miles on your car(i have 9,000, which isnt very much) or would you put it on as soon as possible and just say fawk the warranty?
im kinda torn between the warranty and the life of the car and speed. how much is a turbo gonna affect the life of the car. its my daily driver and i wont have the boost up until the weekends and even then, it wont be up too far unless im gonna race or something.
please give me some feedback on this
)what i was wondering is when is a good time to [ut on a turbo?
Would you wait until you a pretty good amount of miles on your car(i have 9,000, which isnt very much) or would you put it on as soon as possible and just say fawk the warranty?
im kinda torn between the warranty and the life of the car and speed. how much is a turbo gonna affect the life of the car. its my daily driver and i wont have the boost up until the weekends and even then, it wont be up too far unless im gonna race or something.
please give me some feedback on this
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Turbo can affect the life of the car because when you hit the boost, your engine does 100 times more work 100 times quicker because the car doesnt normally go in those RPMs everyday. And if it's your daily driver, then I guess have a boost controller installed and tune it down for the day and crank it up at night.
I'd go with hoho. "Turbo is the way to go!"
I'd go with hoho. "Turbo is the way to go!"
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Originally posted by DistinctiveBP
congratulations!! you lucky fawker!!
congratulations!! you lucky fawker!!

i would definetly go with a boost controller for just that reason. i dont want all the wear and tear of the turbo all the time. i want this car to last me til 100,000 easily.
anyone else have some input?
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How does it hit rpms it doesn't normally go into? As long as you keep it below redline those are "normal rpms," aren't they? I redline my car almost every day with no turbo. Now, granted that at higher rpms there's more wear on the engine than at lower rpms, but it's still fine as long as you keep it out of redline (and you don't go driving around in at 6500 rpm for extended periods of time).
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turbo will cost you about $4,500....that includes turbo, gauges, boost controller, plugs and a clutch 
If you are worried about warranty, then don't do it yet.
And as far as the engine not lasting as long.......that is b/s. If you properly maintain and tune ur engine then you will have no problems.
I know someone that has a D16 that runs 10 psi daily on a stock bottom end and has over 180,000 miles on his car and has no problems whatsoever.

If you are worried about warranty, then don't do it yet.
And as far as the engine not lasting as long.......that is b/s. If you properly maintain and tune ur engine then you will have no problems.
I know someone that has a D16 that runs 10 psi daily on a stock bottom end and has over 180,000 miles on his car and has no problems whatsoever.
Last edited by civic01vtec; Mar 7, 2004 at 12:54 PM.
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Originally posted by IronFist
How does it hit rpms it doesn't normally go into? As long as you keep it below redline those are "normal rpms," aren't they? I redline my car almost every day with no turbo. Now, granted that at higher rpms there's more wear on the engine than at lower rpms, but it's still fine as long as you keep it out of redline (and you don't go driving around in at 6500 rpm for extended periods of time).
How does it hit rpms it doesn't normally go into? As long as you keep it below redline those are "normal rpms," aren't they? I redline my car almost every day with no turbo. Now, granted that at higher rpms there's more wear on the engine than at lower rpms, but it's still fine as long as you keep it out of redline (and you don't go driving around in at 6500 rpm for extended periods of time).
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Originally posted by civic01vtec
turbo will cost you about $4,500....that includes turbo, gauges, boost controller, plugs and a clutch
If you are worried about warranty, then don't do it yet.
And as far as the engine not lasting as long.......that is b/s. If you properly maintain and tune ur engine then you will have no problems.
I know someone that has a D16 that runs 10 psi daily on a stock bottom end and has over 180,000 miles on his car and has no problems whatsoever.
turbo will cost you about $4,500....that includes turbo, gauges, boost controller, plugs and a clutch

If you are worried about warranty, then don't do it yet.
And as far as the engine not lasting as long.......that is b/s. If you properly maintain and tune ur engine then you will have no problems.
I know someone that has a D16 that runs 10 psi daily on a stock bottom end and has over 180,000 miles on his car and has no problems whatsoever.
the d16 makes me feel better, though. how many miles do u have on ur car?
the kit costs 3100 you dont need all those other stuff right away the only thing you really need or would be a very good idea to have at first is a turbo timer ....unless you're a mechanic alot of gauges r a waste of time your stock clutch will last ...catalyst's car was completely stock when he had the stage 1 kit on it ..... and as far as the engine lasting, an engine for our car would cost you 300-500 $ on ebay ...you only live once man if you have the money boost it
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ummmm yeah...a turbo timer isn't crucial. you can just sit in ur car for a couple minutes. What's more crucial is a boost controller, and a boost gauge. You wanna know if you're spiking. Alot of gauges aren't necessary you're right. Most of them are just bling bling, but u wanna see what you're boosting, and you wanna see your a/f.
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Originally posted by kevin78
the kit costs 3100 you dont need all those other stuff right away the only thing you really need or would be a very good idea to have at first is a turbo timer ....unless you're a mechanic alot of gauges r a waste of time your stock clutch will last ...catalyst's car was completely stock when he had the stage 1 kit on it ..... and as far as the engine lasting, an engine for our car would cost you 300-500 $ on ebay ...you only live once man if you have the money boost it
the kit costs 3100 you dont need all those other stuff right away the only thing you really need or would be a very good idea to have at first is a turbo timer ....unless you're a mechanic alot of gauges r a waste of time your stock clutch will last ...catalyst's car was completely stock when he had the stage 1 kit on it ..... and as far as the engine lasting, an engine for our car would cost you 300-500 $ on ebay ...you only live once man if you have the money boost it
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My bad about my theory on the engine not lasting as long.
I figured hitting the high revs too fast and too soon (with a turbo and all) would slowly wear the engine's power as well as its life.
But most of you guys know more than I do.
I figured hitting the high revs too fast and too soon (with a turbo and all) would slowly wear the engine's power as well as its life.
But most of you guys know more than I do.
maybe its just me but what r u gonna do if you have all these gauges and u spike ? unless you have an ebc that has some kind of warning feature you're pretty much azzed out or am i wrong ? and while we're on the topic has anyone ever heard of pop of valves? they are supposed to be some kind of safety feature to prevent damage when spiking occurs..
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Originally posted by kevin78
maybe its just me but what r u gonna do if you have all these gauges and u spike ? unless you have an ebc that has some kind of warning feature you're pretty much azzed out or am i wrong ? and while we're on the topic has anyone ever heard of pop of valves? they are supposed to be some kind of safety feature to prevent damage when spiking occurs..
maybe its just me but what r u gonna do if you have all these gauges and u spike ? unless you have an ebc that has some kind of warning feature you're pretty much azzed out or am i wrong ? and while we're on the topic has anyone ever heard of pop of valves? they are supposed to be some kind of safety feature to prevent damage when spiking occurs..
pop off valves.....a.k.a. Blow off valves.....no, i never heard of them
Originally posted by civic01vtec
i think it's just u........i am using a MBC, so i need a boost gauge to tell me how much boost i am running. I need a a/f guage to tell me if i am leaning out. I need a oil pressure gauge to tell me if that i have a possible leak that i am no losing too much oil.
pop off valves.....a.k.a. Blow off valves.....no, i never heard of them
i think it's just u........i am using a MBC, so i need a boost gauge to tell me how much boost i am running. I need a a/f guage to tell me if i am leaning out. I need a oil pressure gauge to tell me if that i have a possible leak that i am no losing too much oil.
pop off valves.....a.k.a. Blow off valves.....no, i never heard of them
Its my 2 cents, but what about nitrous. There only when you need it and less wear and tear because your not using it all the time. But if you use it all the time it can be harsh, just like high boost.
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You're not always driving around "in boost" either.
But granted....the fact that it's (turbo) always there leads to temptation.
And n2o is only there when you need it, yes! But.....that's assuming you have a remote bottle opener. Say you're driving and ur bottle is closed and some rice-tard is trying you. Whatcha gon do?
"wait lemme pull over and open my bottle"
That sux. And I know it does, cuz well...as GREAT as n2o is...when I had it....lacking a remote bottle opener sucked in those instances.
But granted....the fact that it's (turbo) always there leads to temptation.
And n2o is only there when you need it, yes! But.....that's assuming you have a remote bottle opener. Say you're driving and ur bottle is closed and some rice-tard is trying you. Whatcha gon do?
"wait lemme pull over and open my bottle"
That sux. And I know it does, cuz well...as GREAT as n2o is...when I had it....lacking a remote bottle opener sucked in those instances.




