MaxRev Turbo installed $3250<<-----
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Rep Power: 0 
MaxRev Turbo installed $3250<<-----
HEy guys I just live down the road from MaxRev.... the other company that has the custom turbo kits for our cars. I just talked with someone there and he said I could have the kit installed in my car in less then a week. They will do the install there for everthing that I need done to my car. He quoted me $3250+tax intalled. Is that a pretty good deal? $250.00 for labor charges for them to install the kit and $3,000 to buy the kit. I know some of you said to go with the SF turbo.
Would it be better to wait 4-6 weeks for SF to make my turbo system. Buy it from them for $3,000 and then have a local shop install it for $300-500? What would you guys do in this situation. I can have the maxrev kit installed in less then a week for $3250.00 + tax. That's a pretty badass price I thought. I just wanted your input on what you guys would do in this situation.
-Eric
Would it be better to wait 4-6 weeks for SF to make my turbo system. Buy it from them for $3,000 and then have a local shop install it for $300-500? What would you guys do in this situation. I can have the maxrev kit installed in less then a week for $3250.00 + tax. That's a pretty badass price I thought. I just wanted your input on what you guys would do in this situation.
-Eric
Last edited by matrix311; Feb 25, 2004 at 05:31 PM.
Would it be better to wait 4-6 weeks for SF to make my turbo system
just go ahead and go with the maxrev kit. since you live close by you can bug them if something goes wrong.
The Maxrev kit was awesome on my car. SODJAZERO, who I sold it to made 155 HP and 150 TQ on 4 psi, which is the same as the SF kit made on 5.3
Last edited by zinkyroo; Feb 25, 2004 at 10:58 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Rep Power: 0 Ya I just emailed him for dyno sheets of the kit installed on another D17. When I asked them about the turbo this is what he said to me in return, this is directly from them.
"Without any sort of fuel/engine management, you can run 3-5 psi. At that amount of boost you can expect around 170-180 hp at the wheels up from the 120 factory HP. Adding a Apexi SAFC/hondata/MF2, for fuel management would allow you to step up the boost to 7-9 pounds, where you can expect between 225-250 hp depending on other modifications to your car (intake manifold, exhaust). "
what do you guys think of that. I'm wating to hear back from them on dyno sheets. I'm going to drive down to their shop here and check it out when i have some time from work as well.
"Without any sort of fuel/engine management, you can run 3-5 psi. At that amount of boost you can expect around 170-180 hp at the wheels up from the 120 factory HP. Adding a Apexi SAFC/hondata/MF2, for fuel management would allow you to step up the boost to 7-9 pounds, where you can expect between 225-250 hp depending on other modifications to your car (intake manifold, exhaust). "
what do you guys think of that. I'm wating to hear back from them on dyno sheets. I'm going to drive down to their shop here and check it out when i have some time from work as well.
Registered!!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,621
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
Rep Power: 0 heh heh heh, i wish, ull need to redo our entire fuel system to run 7-9 lbs. either convert to return fuel system, or get the sf kit. also, at 7-9 lbs ull prolly be making 200-225 hp if only other mod u have is exhaust, if u port the head then thatll help quite a bit. and at 3-5 psi itll prolly be closer to 155-170
Originally posted by ricergribbs
heh heh heh, i wish, ull need to redo our entire fuel system to run 7-9 lbs. either convert to return fuel system, or get the sf kit. also, at 7-9 lbs ull prolly be making 200-225 hp if only other mod u have is exhaust, if u port the head then thatll help quite a bit. and at 3-5 psi itll prolly be closer to 155-170
heh heh heh, i wish, ull need to redo our entire fuel system to run 7-9 lbs. either convert to return fuel system, or get the sf kit. also, at 7-9 lbs ull prolly be making 200-225 hp if only other mod u have is exhaust, if u port the head then thatll help quite a bit. and at 3-5 psi itll prolly be closer to 155-170
SRT-4 owner with 2MCHPSI
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 0
From: your g/f house, Louisiana, US
Rep Power: 0 this is coming from someone that has an sf kit and i love my kit....i would go ahead and jump on this deal....sounds very good....living close to them will be to your advantage if you have any problems.....
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 26,407
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 
Originally posted by zinkyroo
You do not need to redo your fuel system, stop posting false information
You do not need to redo your fuel system, stop posting false information
Registered!!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,621
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
Rep Power: 0 lol yeah, it worried me after i read it the next day. not sure what i got my hands on that day. but really, if you dont have to redo your fuel system, then WTF?!?!??! everyone keeps telling me that i have to redo my fuel system to run 7psi, and frankly thats the main thing keeping me from going with a turbo.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Rep Power: 0 Ya I think i will jump on this deal. They have all the parts readily available. They will do the install ath their shop, i'm sure they warranty their work and all. My next question is i just bought my car, i'ts an 04 civic and i bought the extended warranty with it. So by putting a turbo on my car, will that void out the warranty? Like all of it or just part of it? Does anyone know or has anyone had to deal with the extended warranty on their car after modifying the engine?
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Rep Power: 0 dang.. that sucks - i never thought about boosting the civic ever but i'm getting a huge bonus at work and can afford it now... but i paid like a grand for the 6yr/100,000 mile extended warranty and now that was a big waiste.. something i'm going to have to think about.. so thats another question. what would you do with the warranty part if you paid a grand for extended warranty?
Registered!!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,621
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
Rep Power: 0 it all depends, if u drive smart and do all the proper maintenance, dont overboost, then go for it cause by the time something does break itll prolly be over 6 years, for some ppl over 100k miles. but if you cant control the urge to mega boost then stick with the warranty.
Originally posted by ricergribbs
it all depends, if u drive smart and do all the proper maintenance, dont overboost, then go for it cause by the time something does break itll prolly be over 6 years, for some ppl over 100k miles. but if you cant control the urge to mega boost then stick with the warranty.
it all depends, if u drive smart and do all the proper maintenance, dont overboost, then go for it cause by the time something does break itll prolly be over 6 years, for some ppl over 100k miles. but if you cant control the urge to mega boost then stick with the warranty.
Sit back and read a few more threads before you feel the need to contribute bro seriously.
Registered!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: ny
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by matrix311
Ya I just emailed him for dyno sheets of the kit installed on another D17. When I asked them about the turbo this is what he said to me in return, this is directly from them.
"Without any sort of fuel/engine management, you can run 3-5 psi. At that amount of boost you can expect around 170-180 hp at the wheels up from the 120 factory HP. Adding a Apexi SAFC/hondata/MF2, for fuel management would allow you to step up the boost to 7-9 pounds, where you can expect between 225-250 hp depending on other modifications to your car (intake manifold, exhaust). "
what do you guys think of that. I'm wating to hear back from them on dyno sheets. I'm going to drive down to their shop here and check it out when i have some time from work as well.
Ya I just emailed him for dyno sheets of the kit installed on another D17. When I asked them about the turbo this is what he said to me in return, this is directly from them.
"Without any sort of fuel/engine management, you can run 3-5 psi. At that amount of boost you can expect around 170-180 hp at the wheels up from the 120 factory HP. Adding a Apexi SAFC/hondata/MF2, for fuel management would allow you to step up the boost to 7-9 pounds, where you can expect between 225-250 hp depending on other modifications to your car (intake manifold, exhaust). "
what do you guys think of that. I'm wating to hear back from them on dyno sheets. I'm going to drive down to their shop here and check it out when i have some time from work as well.
Registered!!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,621
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
Rep Power: 0 umm.... why do you feel a need to flame right away? it was just an expression and i think it got the point across, and im saying that if he thinks that he wont destroy the engine then to boost, but i he thinks he wont be able to resist the urge then dont even start.
Originally posted by ricergribbs
umm.... why do you feel a need to flame right away? it was just an expression and i think it got the point across, and im saying that if he thinks that he wont destroy the engine then to boost, but i he thinks he wont be able to resist the urge then dont even start.
umm.... why do you feel a need to flame right away? it was just an expression and i think it got the point across, and im saying that if he thinks that he wont destroy the engine then to boost, but i he thinks he wont be able to resist the urge then dont even start.
Registered!!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,621
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, Illinois
Rep Power: 0 ok dober, u still dont get what im saying. im saying that if he can control the urge to run too much boost,using the boost controller , (which would be fun as h*ll but not good for the car) then he should go ahead and get one. if he cant control that urge, then dont get one cause then he'll trash the car, and wont have the warranty to cover it.
I'd resist the urge to boost for at least a year or two so as not to void the warranty. Most warranted problems (i.e., factory defects) crop up during this period, and the repair costs can be huge, i.e., several thousand dollars. After 1.5 to 2 years, boost.
7thgen Power Maker
iTrader: (74)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 9,048
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo, NY, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by C2i0v0i1C
its gone
its gone
I am sorry but your wrong. According to Magnuson-Moss Warranty ACT, your dealership can not refuse to honor warranty issues due to modifications done to your car, unless the mod caused the damage to the car.
"The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act may also be helpful. Under this federal law, you can sue on breach of express and implied warranties. The mainpoint of interest here is that the Act says warranty coverage may not be conditioned upon the use of only the vehicle manufacturers parts unless theparts are provided free of charge. In other words, use of a non-carmaker product should not void your warranty unless it caused the problem."
--Taken from SEMA's website
For complete article click: http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=7253
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 26,407
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 i know all about the damn act, i have used and more or less abused the warranty in my time, and it was all with using aftermarket products.......is your car turboed, if so take it to a dealer and see if they will touch it, mine wont, and any of the others ive taken it to wont touch it either, an engine not designed to have a turbo and when u take it in the dealer with one, its a given that the part or parts caused the damage and it would be quite easy for them to determine that, therefore its not worth trying to tell the dealer that, the piston rings fried and thats under warranty, or the cylinder sleeve cracked under warranty assuming this is all occuring with the turbo on the car and on the car when u take it in
SRT-4 owner with 2MCHPSI
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 0
From: your g/f house, Louisiana, US
Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by corbeaucivic2nr
jw cardy how much boost are you running?
jw cardy how much boost are you running?
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Rep Power: 0 
You have to actually read into the actual act, and not the paraphrases around the internet.
The basis of Magnuson-Moss is that a car manufacturer can't force you to use their parts.
But the thing that nobody reads, is about individual companies conditions of the warranty.
If the part doesn't cause the problem, then by all means go ahead and bring your car in for warranty service. UNLESS, the manufacturer states in the warranty that certain things will not be covered. In the case of Honda's warranty (unless the dealership makes their own warranty), you aren't allowed to modify the drivetrain, powertrain, or suspension. My dealership told me that they won't touch the car with anything on it. If something breaks, they told me to remove everything, and then bring it in. Because for claims they have to take pictures, and if the insurance sees the stuff on the car, they won't pay Honda to do the work under warranty because it also isn't in their contract.
The basis of Magnuson-Moss is that a car manufacturer can't force you to use their parts.
But the thing that nobody reads, is about individual companies conditions of the warranty.
If the part doesn't cause the problem, then by all means go ahead and bring your car in for warranty service. UNLESS, the manufacturer states in the warranty that certain things will not be covered. In the case of Honda's warranty (unless the dealership makes their own warranty), you aren't allowed to modify the drivetrain, powertrain, or suspension. My dealership told me that they won't touch the car with anything on it. If something breaks, they told me to remove everything, and then bring it in. Because for claims they have to take pictures, and if the insurance sees the stuff on the car, they won't pay Honda to do the work under warranty because it also isn't in their contract.
