Does VTEC really matter that much???
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Does VTEC really matter that much??? Does vtec really matter that much when you are buying something like a camshaft or valves even an intake manifold?? Maybe i am dumb but it seems to me that more often than not that vtec is not what we want on our cars i.e. turbos and such.
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Rep Power: 0 i would think that vtec is something important to keep in mind when it comes to camshafts. im not in any way an expert though, just my opinion. search around and ask a member thats really built up the internals of their engine for a turbo kit or whatever, they would definately know whats affected.
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Rep Power: 0 Another question....does it matter if the manufacturer says the part is for a D16A-Y SOHC VTEC? would it still work on a non-vtec car? also who has built up the internals of their engine??
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Rep Power: 337 Originally posted by Fletchman04
Another question....does it matter if the manufacturer says the part is for a D16A-Y SOHC VTEC? would it still work on a non-vtec car? also who has built up the internals of their engine??
Another question....does it matter if the manufacturer says the part is for a D16A-Y SOHC VTEC? would it still work on a non-vtec car? also who has built up the internals of their engine??
no.
supermex.
for racing applications, vtec is disliked. Simply because it is an added complication. If you're ramming on the gas, you're already using the high lobe profile anyways, so its just more to go wrong. However, if you drive your car around town a lot, I think vtec is really nice because if you want to save gas, then you can drive slow and just use the economy lobe profile. But at a moment's notice, you open it up and suddenly you change your lobe profile to performance.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by jwalker87
for racing applications, vtec is disliked. Simply because it is an added complication. If you're ramming on the gas, you're already using the high lobe profile anyways, so its just more to go wrong. However, if you drive your car around town a lot, I think vtec is really nice because if you want to save gas, then you can drive slow and just use the economy lobe profile. But at a moment's notice, you open it up and suddenly you change your lobe profile to performance.
for racing applications, vtec is disliked. Simply because it is an added complication. If you're ramming on the gas, you're already using the high lobe profile anyways, so its just more to go wrong. However, if you drive your car around town a lot, I think vtec is really nice because if you want to save gas, then you can drive slow and just use the economy lobe profile. But at a moment's notice, you open it up and suddenly you change your lobe profile to performance.
brav-o
SO I HAVE THE NON VTEC 2002 LX COUPE 1.5 LITER IS IT HOPELESS OR NOT? 
Originally posted by Green Civic
Sometimes turbos are better on non-vtec cars. Vtec is a performance inhanser. You can get better results from vtec if you tune your car and have a cam gear, shaft, rod, pistons, etc.
Sometimes turbos are better on non-vtec cars. Vtec is a performance inhanser. You can get better results from vtec if you tune your car and have a cam gear, shaft, rod, pistons, etc.
Originally posted by jwalker87
for racing applications, vtec is disliked. Simply because it is an added complication. If you're ramming on the gas, you're already using the high lobe profile anyways, so its just more to go wrong. However, if you drive your car around town a lot, I think vtec is really nice because if you want to save gas, then you can drive slow and just use the economy lobe profile. But at a moment's notice, you open it up and suddenly you change your lobe profile to performance.
for racing applications, vtec is disliked. Simply because it is an added complication. If you're ramming on the gas, you're already using the high lobe profile anyways, so its just more to go wrong. However, if you drive your car around town a lot, I think vtec is really nice because if you want to save gas, then you can drive slow and just use the economy lobe profile. But at a moment's notice, you open it up and suddenly you change your lobe profile to performance.
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From: SOUTHMPTON,NJ
Rep Power: 288 cars with v-tec are more complicated when boosting, mainly because of boost spikes. It makes the power harder to control and tune your car just right, cuz the i-vtec is throttle controlled not rpm controlled like 2000 civics and older. but v-tec is nice lil added boost when needed and ontop of a turbo is a great edge
what i meant by "more to go wrong" is that it is an added mechanical complexity. More moving parts = more parts that can break. In a racing environment, you want as few moving parts as possible so that fewer parts have the possibility of breaking. In racing, you really don't care about fuel economy or a smooth idle, so the ideal cam profile would be to always operate the high-lobe profile, with no switching of profiles in the RPM range.
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Rep Power: 0 you know, i just checked out howstuffworks.com and i learned a couple of things. vtec is very important with a performance camshaft. like jwalker87 said, i will definitely be driving a lot in town and not on the race track so vtec would benefit me more especially with engine life. the performance camshaft on a non-vtec car is really rough at idle which would not be comfortable everyday riding in heavy traffic.
the only problem with modding the camshaft on vtec is that if you only modify the high cam profile, then the transition between the two become rough. If you modify both, then you get a rough idle. I agree that it is good for general consumers who punch it hard on the road sometimes (ok, at every light), and for those same people who occasionally go to the track.
Originally posted by jwalker87
what i meant by "more to go wrong" is that it is an added mechanical complexity. More moving parts = more parts that can break. In a racing environment, you want as few moving parts as possible so that fewer parts have the possibility of breaking. In racing, you really don't care about fuel economy or a smooth idle, so the ideal cam profile would be to always operate the high-lobe profile, with no switching of profiles in the RPM range.
what i meant by "more to go wrong" is that it is an added mechanical complexity. More moving parts = more parts that can break. In a racing environment, you want as few moving parts as possible so that fewer parts have the possibility of breaking. In racing, you really don't care about fuel economy or a smooth idle, so the ideal cam profile would be to always operate the high-lobe profile, with no switching of profiles in the RPM range.
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Rep Power: 0 I'm gonna try to clear this up the best I can. The reason some racers prefer the VTEC head is when you tune it right, you get more power. I'll give you an example.
I have a B16A1, A2, A3 or B18C1, C2, C3, C4, C5 or w/e VTEC motor you want.( And yes those B18's exist) I want to optimize the use of VTEC and get more horsepower and torque. So what I would do is get a HONDATA s200 program and get to work using a dyno. What you should start off doing is figure out where youre torque falls and where your power climbs<----(VTEC) (this obviously depends on your mods, torque-wise and horsepower-wise).
When you figure this, you wanna start to apply the preset HONDATA fuel and timing maps to your car, whether its a boost map for your turbo or an N/A map for your N/A application. Now you use the best timing map you find and start tuning that one at 500 RPM increments. Adjusting the timing +/- and fuel delivery as you go to optimize your VTEC engagement. Remember all applications are different. So back to my explanation. After you tune it at every 500 RPM's, it's now time to adjust the VTEC Engagement. You do this by setting the engagement where u see the torque start to fall so that way you'lll see two little hills starting to intersect eachother where one hill goes down and the other goes up. The point of this is because as soon as you start to lose torque you're already in the powerband. But the engagement should be right where it intersects with the torque's fall for this to optimize the air/fuel flow and ultimately optimize the VTEC engagement. You wanna apply the VTEC engagement right where the two form an x. Because if you don't tune it right, let's say you're off by a few hundred RPM's of the torque drop, you might feel a slight bog before you start to actually GO and that can cost you quite a few tenths depending on how far off you are. And that can determine whether you win or lose the race.
Remember though, if you're running boost, HONDATA has a program for it, I think it's the s200b for boost program
And if you're gonna run N/A then the s200 system with all the options minus boost is great for you.
And those are my two cents guys I hope you found this informative
I have a B16A1, A2, A3 or B18C1, C2, C3, C4, C5 or w/e VTEC motor you want.( And yes those B18's exist) I want to optimize the use of VTEC and get more horsepower and torque. So what I would do is get a HONDATA s200 program and get to work using a dyno. What you should start off doing is figure out where youre torque falls and where your power climbs<----(VTEC) (this obviously depends on your mods, torque-wise and horsepower-wise).
When you figure this, you wanna start to apply the preset HONDATA fuel and timing maps to your car, whether its a boost map for your turbo or an N/A map for your N/A application. Now you use the best timing map you find and start tuning that one at 500 RPM increments. Adjusting the timing +/- and fuel delivery as you go to optimize your VTEC engagement. Remember all applications are different. So back to my explanation. After you tune it at every 500 RPM's, it's now time to adjust the VTEC Engagement. You do this by setting the engagement where u see the torque start to fall so that way you'lll see two little hills starting to intersect eachother where one hill goes down and the other goes up. The point of this is because as soon as you start to lose torque you're already in the powerband. But the engagement should be right where it intersects with the torque's fall for this to optimize the air/fuel flow and ultimately optimize the VTEC engagement. You wanna apply the VTEC engagement right where the two form an x. Because if you don't tune it right, let's say you're off by a few hundred RPM's of the torque drop, you might feel a slight bog before you start to actually GO and that can cost you quite a few tenths depending on how far off you are. And that can determine whether you win or lose the race.
Remember though, if you're running boost, HONDATA has a program for it, I think it's the s200b for boost program
And if you're gonna run N/A then the s200 system with all the options minus boost is great for you.
And those are my two cents guys I hope you found this informative
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by jwalker87
what i meant by "more to go wrong" is that it is an added mechanical complexity. More moving parts = more parts that can break. In a racing environment, you want as few moving parts as possible so that fewer parts have the possibility of breaking. In racing, you really don't care about fuel economy or a smooth idle, so the ideal cam profile would be to always operate the high-lobe profile, with no switching of profiles in the RPM range.
what i meant by "more to go wrong" is that it is an added mechanical complexity. More moving parts = more parts that can break. In a racing environment, you want as few moving parts as possible so that fewer parts have the possibility of breaking. In racing, you really don't care about fuel economy or a smooth idle, so the ideal cam profile would be to always operate the high-lobe profile, with no switching of profiles in the RPM range.
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From: Miami
Rep Power: 0 VTEC isn't unreliable because the VTEC lobes are on the cam with the other lobes on both the intake and exhaust cam. Now, what happens with VTEC is that when the engine senses 75% throttle and above, at a predetermined RPM the VTEC lobe will kick caused by a pin that goes through the regular rocker arms (2) and through the VTEC rocker arm (1), causing it to be a huge rocker arm and that's what causes that loud rumble we all love. This happens because the VTEC lobes are larger with more lift and duration than the regular driving lobes. Thus causing the valves to open for longer periods of time and allowing the engine to breathe in more air and perform better because of the increased amount of load being put down because it's increased acceleration. So I doubt VTEC would cause many problems if any at all. If you need more info on how VTEC works you can pm me
^^^^^^ 
^^^^^^ Last edited by k20a1emcivic; Jan 6, 2004 at 09:10 PM.
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Registered!!
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Rep Power: 0 Wow I learned a lot from this now I know how to tune my car and definetely get a dyno before I get vafc tuned.
Originally posted by k20a1emcivic
I'm gonna try to clear this up the best I can. The reason some racers prefer the VTEC head is when you tune it right, you get more power. I'll give you an example.
I have a B16A1, A2, A3 or B18C1, C2, C3, C4, C5 or w/e VTEC motor you want.( And yes those B18's exist) I want to optimize the use of VTEC and get more horsepower and torque. So what I would do is get a HONDATA s200 program and get to work using a dyno. What you should start off doing is figure out where youre torque falls and where your power climbs<----(VTEC) (this obviously depends on your mods, torque-wise and horsepower-wise).
When you figure this, you wanna start to apply the preset HONDATA fuel and timing maps to your car, whether its a boost map for your turbo or an N/A map for your N/A application. Now you use the best timing map you find and start tuning that one at 500 RPM increments. Adjusting the timing +/- and fuel delivery as you go to optimize your VTEC engagement. Remember all applications are different. So back to my explanation. After you tune it at every 500 RPM's, it's now time to adjust the VTEC Engagement. You do this by setting the engagement where u see the torque start to fall so that way you'lll see two little hills starting to intersect eachother where one hill goes down and the other goes up. The point of this is because as soon as you start to lose torque you're already in the powerband. But the engagement should be right where it intersects with the torque's fall for this to optimize the air/fuel flow and ultimately optimize the VTEC engagement. You wanna apply the VTEC engagement right where the two form an x. Because if you don't tune it right, let's say you're off by a few hundred RPM's of the torque drop, you might feel a slight bog before you start to actually GO and that can cost you quite a few tenths depending on how far off you are. And that can determine whether you win or lose the race.
Remember though, if you're running boost, HONDATA has a program for it, I think it's the s200b for boost program
And if you're gonna run N/A then the s200 system with all the options minus boost is great for you.
And those are my two cents guys I hope you found this informative
I'm gonna try to clear this up the best I can. The reason some racers prefer the VTEC head is when you tune it right, you get more power. I'll give you an example.
I have a B16A1, A2, A3 or B18C1, C2, C3, C4, C5 or w/e VTEC motor you want.( And yes those B18's exist) I want to optimize the use of VTEC and get more horsepower and torque. So what I would do is get a HONDATA s200 program and get to work using a dyno. What you should start off doing is figure out where youre torque falls and where your power climbs<----(VTEC) (this obviously depends on your mods, torque-wise and horsepower-wise).
When you figure this, you wanna start to apply the preset HONDATA fuel and timing maps to your car, whether its a boost map for your turbo or an N/A map for your N/A application. Now you use the best timing map you find and start tuning that one at 500 RPM increments. Adjusting the timing +/- and fuel delivery as you go to optimize your VTEC engagement. Remember all applications are different. So back to my explanation. After you tune it at every 500 RPM's, it's now time to adjust the VTEC Engagement. You do this by setting the engagement where u see the torque start to fall so that way you'lll see two little hills starting to intersect eachother where one hill goes down and the other goes up. The point of this is because as soon as you start to lose torque you're already in the powerband. But the engagement should be right where it intersects with the torque's fall for this to optimize the air/fuel flow and ultimately optimize the VTEC engagement. You wanna apply the VTEC engagement right where the two form an x. Because if you don't tune it right, let's say you're off by a few hundred RPM's of the torque drop, you might feel a slight bog before you start to actually GO and that can cost you quite a few tenths depending on how far off you are. And that can determine whether you win or lose the race.
Remember though, if you're running boost, HONDATA has a program for it, I think it's the s200b for boost program
And if you're gonna run N/A then the s200 system with all the options minus boost is great for you.
And those are my two cents guys I hope you found this informative
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From: Miami
Rep Power: 0 im glad i helped you elite and if u need anymore info and help u can email me w any questions u have and ill reply promptly or u can just post here and ill answer w no problem im really glad i help u have fun tuning now lol
p.s. remember elite u have to be dynoing it to yune it right cuz u have to see the torque and power curves im just letting u know before u think u only have to spend about $20 lol and do it right!!
by the way if u do this right i can guarantee u in the range of 10-20 hp to the wheels and about 10lbs. of torque
tuning is very important if u want to unleash the full potential and also remember this, evrytime u mod the car u ahve to dyno tune it again so u can optimize the use of the part u added
happy dynoing lol
p.s. remember elite u have to be dynoing it to yune it right cuz u have to see the torque and power curves im just letting u know before u think u only have to spend about $20 lol and do it right!!
by the way if u do this right i can guarantee u in the range of 10-20 hp to the wheels and about 10lbs. of torque
tuning is very important if u want to unleash the full potential and also remember this, evrytime u mod the car u ahve to dyno tune it again so u can optimize the use of the part u added
happy dynoing lol
Last edited by k20a1emcivic; Jan 6, 2004 at 10:18 PM.
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From: Miami
Rep Power: 0 no problem fletch
by the way fletch if u can help the cause w donating some points to spare so i can get that gay title under my avatar off id really appreciate it
some *** changed it like a ***
by the way fletch if u can help the cause w donating some points to spare so i can get that gay title under my avatar off id really appreciate it
some *** changed it like a ***
Last edited by k20a1emcivic; Jan 6, 2004 at 10:20 PM.
