D17A1 turbocharged... ODB II problems...?
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D17A1 turbocharged... ODB II problems...?
Hey dudes..
I'm planning on turbocharging a D17A1 engine and I've gone through some speedbumps.. I've been told by some people that the ODB-II computer will not like the turbo and the check engine light may come on constantly as a result of adding a turbocharger.
What is the guaranteed way I can make a turbocharger with for my car. I will aquire a compressor (internal wastegate), intercooler, blowoff valve, and a bunch of plumbing from a source.. as I am not purchasing a package. (so I'm not buying a kit but I'm buying seperate parts from different places.. compressor is from an 99 Eclipse) I need to know now I can make sure this is successful.
Is there a company out there that reprograms my ECU to understand that there is nothing wrong with my engine and that there is added boost? Cuz I heard ODB-II will give me some problems.. because of the super tight emission standards in the D17A1.
I've been told that if I boost 6 or 7 PSI.. the check engine light should not come on.. unless I install it wrong or I boost over 10 psi. Is this true?
Should the D17A1 block be able to handle 6 or 7 PSI or should I have it sleeved to be certain?
Please help!
-Spleeny
I'm planning on turbocharging a D17A1 engine and I've gone through some speedbumps.. I've been told by some people that the ODB-II computer will not like the turbo and the check engine light may come on constantly as a result of adding a turbocharger.
What is the guaranteed way I can make a turbocharger with for my car. I will aquire a compressor (internal wastegate), intercooler, blowoff valve, and a bunch of plumbing from a source.. as I am not purchasing a package. (so I'm not buying a kit but I'm buying seperate parts from different places.. compressor is from an 99 Eclipse) I need to know now I can make sure this is successful.
Is there a company out there that reprograms my ECU to understand that there is nothing wrong with my engine and that there is added boost? Cuz I heard ODB-II will give me some problems.. because of the super tight emission standards in the D17A1.
I've been told that if I boost 6 or 7 PSI.. the check engine light should not come on.. unless I install it wrong or I boost over 10 psi. Is this true?
Should the D17A1 block be able to handle 6 or 7 PSI or should I have it sleeved to be certain?
Please help!
-Spleeny
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Rep Power: 0 map sensor isolation valve... this prevents your ecu from dectecting boost... ya know.. the thing that the obd II doesn't like... i think you can find it for like 60-70 bucks somewhere...
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Rep Power: 0 So all I need is like a "software patch" for the ECU? the ECU won't recognize the boost because the Map Sensor Isolation Valve is not good at detecting boost?
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u dont need ne thing for the ecu, re read what he said....the map sensor tricks the ECU, no software patchs or whatever ur talkin about
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YOU ARE WRONG... Our cars are obd II.. if you don't believe me, go and look under your steering column and it says OBD-II right on it! I just noticed the sticker today... weird!
Last edited by IDQcivic; Aug 6, 2003 at 02:57 PM.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by iamboo
map sensor isolation valve... this prevents your ecu from dectecting boost... ya know.. the thing that the obd II doesn't like... i think you can find it for like 60-70 bucks somewhere...
map sensor isolation valve... this prevents your ecu from dectecting boost... ya know.. the thing that the obd II doesn't like... i think you can find it for like 60-70 bucks somewhere...
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Rep Power: 0 The honda map sensor is good for 1 bar (14.5 psi), so yes it is good for 11 psi... But that is not the problem. The stock ecu needs the reading from the map sensor to give the correct fuel from the fuel map. But since there isn't a boost map, the check engine light will come on. When check engine light comes on, many things can act funny, and let's not even talk about not passing inspection.
a check valve or missing link will solve that problem, that is all it is for. The ability of the sensor has nothing to do with missing link...
and yes, many people on honda tech are old timers, 11psi might be a little old on that note. But as you know, some people do pass old knowledge to the new generations, even if they don't apply to the new cars.
I think before I totally understand what the returnless fuel system is all about, I am probably the same way on viewing the turbo setups.
a check valve or missing link will solve that problem, that is all it is for. The ability of the sensor has nothing to do with missing link...
and yes, many people on honda tech are old timers, 11psi might be a little old on that note. But as you know, some people do pass old knowledge to the new generations, even if they don't apply to the new cars.
I think before I totally understand what the returnless fuel system is all about, I am probably the same way on viewing the turbo setups.
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Rep Power: 0 so wait, the check engine light would come on, but does that mean that the car would be cutting off at low RPMs?? cuz if its just the check engine light, then i dont think most ppl dont care as long as it doesnt affect the performance or daily driving.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by wcsjunior
so wait, the check engine light would come on, but does that mean that the car would be cutting off at low RPMs?? cuz if its just the check engine light, then i dont think most ppl dont care as long as it doesnt affect the performance or daily driving.
so wait, the check engine light would come on, but does that mean that the car would be cutting off at low RPMs?? cuz if its just the check engine light, then i dont think most ppl dont care as long as it doesnt affect the performance or daily driving.
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Rep Power: 0 the car runs fine if the check engine light is on, with a turbo or nitrious i wouldnt try it but in my car with pullies,intake,exhaust,clutch,header. i ran a 15.5 with the check engine light on and v-tec still kicks in. it might not however if there is a real problem. mine is only on cause the front half of my cat went missing, so the code is for front catalyst not heating up right. if it was for low oil pressure or something then i bet it runs in "limp" mode and v-tec would not kick in.
