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Oh and I only got the base kit so any questions minus the alc/h20 I may be able to help you w/

 
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just tighten up your throttle cables to raise the idle... and about the car dying at lights, are you sure you don't have a boost leak anywhere??

 
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im thinking that i have a boost leak then... i kind of slapped my pipes on... that could be it... i have to recheck everything this weekend... grrr.

 
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how old are u.?

i mean "slapping" on ur turbo is theee fastest way for it to break, there has to be steps procedures, plans on install and uninstall. patience is a VIRTUE! its not like putting on an intake. a turbo kit could seriously fock up ur engine if installed wrong. next time use ur head lease:

 
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Robb-

I appoligize for having no instructions included in our kits yet. But you can hardly say you had no instructions, as my cell phone bill will reflect.
I gave you step by step instructions on the phone for every part of the kit and made myself available Sat morn while I was still in bed, SAt afternoon during my daughter's b-day, as well as Sun in between Church services and every where in between. I am not complaining about making myself available to help with the installation since we havn't completed the instructions that we will be sending out with future kits. However I can't see how you can say you didn't have any instruction! You name me any company that would spend there weekend at all hour to take care of their customer.

As far as stalling at stop signs we haven't expierenced that but we don't have an EX we are currently having one of the 7thgen Ex owners try a few things and give us some results. We hope this will prove to be valuable info and solve any posible complications with the kit and when we get the info we will pass it along.

13.6 LX
Mike Stafford
Stafford Fabrication

 
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Guys, I'm installing mine on Wednesday, rscivic or rob, Catalyst or Mike, can you guys pm me or email me ( sykoward@erols.com ) or even call my cell 410-459-1153 if there is anything specific i'll need before installing on wednesday. thanks. my biggest concern is the fuel thingy...mike i still want to buy alc injection when you have more available. thanks.

ken

 
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Oh, what size drill bit did you use to drill the hole in the pan?

 
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3/4

 
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Ok... I am 21... what does that have to do with me saying slapping it together? I didnt mean that literally. I took my time, rechecked it at least 5 times.

Perhaps I should say I was so excited about my kit I tried to install it very fast because time WAS an issue BUT I made sure that everything was where it was supposed to be.

 
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hey when you drill that hole in the oil pan do you still have to take the whole oil pan off since you don't have to weld it? or you can just drill it and flush some oil through there to get any metal shavings out?

 
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take it off

 
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SaiyanMatador...I know Rob and he doesn't just slap it on...some people should think before postin some ish like that...How old are you..I had to laugh at that one Rob...hope I'm old enough to install my kit this wednesday...does 30 meet your requirement saiyan?

 
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lolzz.. something bad happened... not saying though.,., OMG

 
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On the stalling @ a stop- I stupidly did not let the ECU reset yesterday and just pulled it out of the garage (excited). Today we reset the ECU by disconnecting then reconnecting the battery then letting it run for 10 min- helps to have a friend that works @ Honda Now idle is fine and back @ 700rpm where it was.
I cannot find any leaks anywhere so this may be what needs to be done to not have this problem.
Oh and turn off ALL accesories @ reset.

 
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that stalling happened to me on the first day i test drove it.i took it back and reset the ecu and went out again.worked fine after that.

 
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****, should we start praying for you?

 
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I guess now would be the time to let you all know that our car's ECU have a built in idle learning procedure. The specific instructions are in the factory service manual. If you would like me to post them, let me know. It's more detailed than letting it idle for 10 minutes.

 
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id like to know more about the "idle learning procedure"

 
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me too

 
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dont get upset because i have an opinion, it seemed to me that he had rushed and installed the kit in a hurry, with these things u have to keep ur cool and patience. cant just throwin crap on ur car, or else u might just be the one postin on here say "woops" or "uhoh"

and for the record i dont give a shiet about how old some of u internet freaks are on here. but i work at autozone and ive seen plenty of lazy asssefocks who cant even install some damn windshield wipers, or cant change their own battery. trust me theres nerds out there who rush and hurry and screw up, or are just illiterate when it comes to anything with vehicles.

 
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I'll post it up when I get home from work (1 hour)

 
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Sweet. Smokie, is your turbo finished and out of the shop yet?

 
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Nope, pulled it from them when they let the car sit there for 2 weeks and didn't touch it. I rearranged some stuff, and the car goes back in Monday. There loss on it though... I ended up installing the E-manage, PRofec e-01, and 3 gauges... leaving them out nearly $1000. I had SF do some custom work for me too, so that's more money that they aren't getting. Their fault. But, installation should take place Monday, and I'm going to estimate 1-2 days for tuning. So, hopefully by next wednesday/thursday I'll have the numbers available.

 
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ECM/PCM Idle Learn Procedure

The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.

The idle learn procedure must be done whenever you do any of these actions:
-Disconnect the battery
-Replace the ECM/PCM or disconnect it's connector
-Reset the ECM/PCM
-Remove the No. 6 ECU 15A fuse from under the hood
-Remove the No. 19 battery 80A fuse from under the hood
-Remove the PGM-FI main relay 1
-Remove any wires from the under-hood fuse box
-Disconnect and wires from the under-hood fuse box
-Disconnect the connectors between the engine and the ECU
-Disconnect the G2 terminal from the transmission housing
-Disconnect the G1 terminal from the body
-Disconnect the G101 terminal from the water passage
*** Basically if you make any changes to the connectors, sensors, and engine ***

Procedure

1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are off.

2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 RPM with no load (in park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 F (90 C).

3. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.

NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include it's running time in the 5 minutes.

 
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So, it's not super detailed, but it contains more than just letting the engine idle.

 
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i dunno about u guys... but i wanna know what happen to Rob's car. i'm assuming it blew up. but pls tell me not Rob! if it did, that's a loss for team iLLRaTeD.

 
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thanx for the info smokie

 
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4r44obs car did nout blow up. it looks like we may have a bad fuel pump so hes sending it to me and i'll replace it ,i just wanted to make sure it wasnt a wiriing error first

 
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Do I know you? How do you know about illrated anyway... that was my old crew.

Anyway,

Mike has been really helpful in helping me find out what's wrong. It's all on warranty so I am glad.

 
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oil pan plug in wrong spot so i had to wrap it... im moving it to the right spot this weekend