Erf_Em2

thank you!

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Yeah, it's charge pressure line for a wastegate. Hook a vacuum line to the sensing port on the wastegate. Below showing internal and external wastegate examples.

Erf_Em2

*Update*


I have to get an alignment done. I drove around the city today, and enjoyed driving my baby again. This projects back on the road.

Erf_Em2

Is it okay to skip the boost controller? I really see no need for adjustability. I just want to use my wastegate spring. I also have a good waste-gate, a Tial F38 one I bought from eBay used. It came off some guys B Series build he was pushing 9psi on a built head.

If anyone is curious, after this projects over, the boost project will have cost $7000. I can upload a Excel document listing everything I used.

Dobson

Hello Honda peeps!!! I need some advice on my 2001 civic lx with the d17a1, I can't find any information about nothing really. I'm boosting my d17a1 with bone stock internals. Now I'm only running 6psi and probably won't get into boost much since I shift at 2500-3000rpm it's not fast as it is and would really like to finish what I started, i need to know #1 do my stock injectors have enough cc to run 6 psi #2 do I need a different fuel pump? #can I use my stock ecu? #3 can this motor handle 6psi with no harm? #4 will my clutch hold? Oh and what thread pitch and size for the top of the turbo for the oil feed? Help help help thanks

piano55man

I would start a new thread rather than hijacking this one...
FYI use the link below for reference. Sounds like it will help you out.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...4-boostin.html

Erf_Em2

There is plenty of information on the forums to help you out. I'll give ya some pointers, but keep the posts here relevant to my thread. ECU: Stock won't work. AEM or KPro. Turbo feed: Garrett and Turbonetics use different sizes, check the manual on their website. Injectors: 310cc RSX w/stock fuel pump.

Thanks! I always like to help D17 owners out, but some information like ECUs and basics are all available on the forums. And even on my initial thread posts I have information related to what setup I am going with that is bread and butter.


*Update*


The PCV valve was clogged, changed that, I had to replace the oil pan gasket, again because I overtorqued and broke the seal last one I had. There was a double gasket under my oil filter leading to another leak. Fixed all oil leaks. NRG Steering wheel added. Man... having an oil pressure gauge is cheap insurance, you can have low oil and not even know it.

Car runs great, just needs new tires. I hate my current wheels, plan on going with some Nittos and 15x7 RPF1s and ditching the stance setup after boost is on.

Estimated time until I boost the thing finally: 6 months.

Right now, I am busy with school, been focused on work too.

Check the update photos I attached.

Dobson

So is there a certain year of rsx that I need to find

piano55man

Do you have any pics with the spa manifold in the car? I'm curious if i should get a spa or a generic one with the top wastegate. Not sure if the generic one with the top waste gate will have enough hood clearance.

Erf_Em2

Yes, I attached the image. I never checked to see if the hood would close though. The SPA one looks like it will clear as the WG sits to the side and right where it sits there is an indent in the hood that should theoretically give it clearance.



Do lower profile tires give a bumpy ride quality? I currently have 16x8 XXRs with Nexen 195/45/16s, and the ride quality sucks. I am about to purchase new tires. I am buying Enkei RPF1s 15x7 for wheels, and 205/55/15s. I remember when I had Enkei 92s and Nitto tires the ride quality was MUCH better even on coilovers. Could it be my ISC coilovers are just cheap and worn out over time, or do the tires really play a pivotal role?

piano55man

Thanks for posting the pic...unfortunately, i had to make a decision and went with the standard manifold. I hope the hood clears. If not, i'll make some cool looking hood scoop!

Lower profile tires will technically be a rougher ride and noisier. (brand type may help with this)
You have less sidewall deflection to help absorb bumps and vibrations. I personally like them...of course i grew up racing laydown karts over 100 mph with no suspension...

Erf_Em2

No problem! I did a bit of research on manifolds as well. Basically what made me go with SPA was the company background, and the design did not really inhibit AC or Power Steering. I want to keep both. The generic manifolds on Ebay also work. If I had to choose a generic manifold, I would go with the cast iron one made by Rev9Power, formerly known as Godspeed. That one is a simple log style with a top mount WG. As far as the dumptube goes, there are stainless steel 90s I bought off eBay that I plan to route to the atmosphere.

Erf_Em2

I need some help.


3months ago I installed brand new Gates V-rib A/C and PS belts.
A/C system was discharged of R134a, vacuumed, and filled 3 months ago.
Fine. Perfect cold air.

After 3 months A/C belt squealing on startup. Especially after a rainy day.
Also, noticed at idle, when AC turned on, RPMs dropped dramatically by 600RPM to the point where it would almost stall and die.
Also, at idle or low speeds, warm air, at high speeds cold air A/C worked fine.


A few days ago: Tensioned the A/C belt tighter.
Fixed the idle RPMS dropping issue, fixed the squealing.

Main issue: Now the A/C does not blow cold air, even at high speeds.

Any ideas? It is hot as hell in the south, and I can not drive this thing without my A/C!!!!!

Erf_Em2

****UPDATE******
My AC compressor pulley will not spin. Therefore I have no A/C. I have to discharge the freon, remove the A/C compressor, install one from the junkyard, and re-charge freon.




Just ordered my set of 15x7 Enkei RPF1s black +41 offset.
Just ordered my set of S. Drives 205/55/15.
Mounted and balanced by TireRack.

1300.


Need a set of winter tires by November to switch out, but that will come later.

Erf_Em2

**Update**

Found out A/C compressor connector had become dislodged. Did some wire management using good ole zip ties.


I got my A/C back!

My wheels and tires (already mounted) came in today.....


I just need to raise the coilovers, get the ride height adjusted to a safe setting so no-rub, and find a Firestone shop with a technician that KNOWS how to adjust camber... Especially on the front where I have camber plates. Its a bi*** to adjust camber using camber plates. It throws off caster.

Last time I went to Firestone they didnt even touch my camber when I asked them too.. I got the lifetime alignment package, so Im assuming they dont want to work for free or something..


This time Im going to call and ask if the technician is experienced with coilovers.... Then I can safely drive this thing around.

5.0Thunder

glad you're still making progress on it. Is the turbo stuff happening soon?

Erf_Em2

yes sirrr. the turbo stuff will happen 100%!!! most likely next summer. but if money is good and my road is clear December!

Schools been keeping me busy, and I was not about to put it on the road making power with the wheel and tire setup I have now, too dangerous.

Erf_Em2

***BIG UPDATE***


I have been able to obtain an engineering Co-Op these next 6 months. So I have a steady flow of good income.

I plan on finishing this project before the end of October. Stay tuned!


-Meeting with a tuning shop to discuss power goals/details in Nashville in a few weeks that are EFI certified/Honda focused (in big luck!)

-Mounting the FMIC (pics will be included)

-Mounting turbo to manifold/bolts/hardware

-Making sure I have all the AN lines/vacuum lines/correct lengths


So far I am sure on one thing: I don't want to straight pipe. It is too loud even with a turbo, for my liking. I dont have to worry about passing emissions anymore, because I got my vehicle registered in a different county. I have to figure out if my tuner also does fabrication, that way I can just get my exhaust fabbed in their shop instead of going to a muffler shop.

piano55man

Glad to hear your back at it!
All i can say is be careful with the oil feed lines. I have gone thru two feed lines...one was pinched on the backside (which i didn't see) and another clogged up near the turbo....both of these have caused my turbo's to burn up...

Erf_Em2

mounted FMIC,
compression test was good, no variations in pressure
met my tuner in nashville, discussed costs,

What would I need to do to get Acura RDX 410cc injectors to work with the D17 engine?Is it the wiring clips that have to be changed?

1)Tuner said for $500 he would tune
2)Tuner has extensive Honda experience, said 310cc should work just fine for reaching my power goal of 170whp. He feels confident that I can even run a 7psi spring on my small peashooter without upgrading fuel pump or above 310cc

3) Tuner referred me to a local guy to fab exhaust



Plan: Install turbo kit, drive carefully open downpipe to tuner, get a tune, drive to local guy, get exhaust fabbed,and ill be done

piano55man

i can hit 7psi before the car stutters on the stock fuel injectors and stock fuel pump.

BTW have fun routing the intercooler piping...

piano55man

Here is how i did mine...
notice the front bumper bar is not in the picture

Erf_Em2

yea, i should be fine then on 310cc injectors. not really worried. thanks to the communitys experience I dont have to experiment. i will go ahead and buy some bigger RDX injectors in case we get stuck tuning for more fuel delivery as i promised him, the tuner, that so we dont waste time,


God damn it. Hmmm, I think if I plan accordingly 2 hours tops is all it will take to route the intercooler piping. Its a no brainer that both inlet/outlet pipes HAVE to come in through passenger side. But there might be options for the driver side pipe. I might be able to cut away some bumper trim, then route that exit pipe UNDER the intercooler instead of above.


One question, is there a difference in performance in which side of the intercooler gets compressed air and which side feeds the intake? So if the Compressed air leaves the turbo, joins the FMIC by the passenger wheel well, then the longer discharge pipe goes to the intake from driver sider, would that affect anything? Would it be better to route the compressor pipe to the far side of the intercooler by the driver's side and then a shorter pipe from the FMIC passenger side to the intake? Just curious if anyone knows.

5.0Thunder

These types of intercoolers normally flow the same in either direction. My question is why not use the same-side intercooler that the rev9/godspeed kits come with? seems like a no brainer for these cars.

piano55man

Because my cheap *** bought a "complete" turbo kit for 300 bucks off of craig's list.
If i had a choice, i would go with the same side route.

Erf_Em2

I really wanted a black intercooler haha.


I understand. Ill make it work somehow.

BTW, seeking Acura RDX injectors, if anyone has a set of 4 let me know. or refer me to someone selling RDX injectors. I can get the harness and top hats myself.

piano55man

check out HA Motorsports. they may have what your looking for.

Erf_Em2

thanks! I found a good deal on ebay for 65 bucks. And I also found the top thats.

Agenda: Alternator is making a hum, going to put money aside to buy a used rebuilt alternator once this one goes out.
All three of my gauges are unfunctional now. Stupid crap autometer all of them shitted on me within a year.

My gauges show partial digits. IDK WHY. My oil sender unit is bad, got an extra I will replace with. My dang oil temp wont even show, bad wiring? Went out a few weeks ago. Not displaying ANYTHING. I used crimp style butt ends, gonna inspect/reqwire.
My water temp only works now. And EVEN THAT it wont update continuously. You have to turn the car on and off to see a updated reading.


I SHOULD HAVE WENT WITH GLOWSHIFT GAUGES! GRRRRR. 300 wasted. Im out of warranty too.

piano55man

check your grounds wire connections first...

5.0Thunder

Lol well if it helps the REV9/Godspeed kit is like 700 so you did save quite a bit of coin.

This made me laugh out loud.

I was thinking "don't they make black intercooler paint?"

not to add salt to a wound