Obsidian

iTrader: (1)

This is sort of a repost. ohmysac covered it pretty well. I just thought a good DIY would be helpful to everyone. Credit goes to ohmysac and krisic at wash u. This is adapted from his DIY. Rumors that a 98-00 Accord Trunk Opener bolts directly to a 7thgen are true. There are actually two models.

The 98-00 accord opener P/N: 08E49-S84-100H looks like this:


The 01 accord opener P/N: 08E49-S84-101H looks like this:



Okay, so the difference between the two is that the 01 has the green self release so if you get stuck in the trunk you can get out

You can get this from Handa Accessories for $30.
98-01 Accord Trunk Opener @ Handa

Okay, on with the install.

Tools you need are the following:
1. 10mm Socket Wrench
2. Rachet
3. Hook up wire
4. 22-18 gauge connectors
5. Crimping Tool

The install is pretty to the book of the instructions that come with it which you can get here.
Install PDF

1. Open the trunk and remove the trunk opener rod from the key cylinder. In order to remove the rod from the light blue retainer, you must rotate the retainer clockwise to unclip the rod and then pull the rod out of the hole.



2. Unclip the trunk light switch from the original trunk lock by depressing the tab and pulling on the black plastic housing.

3. Remove the Trunk pop cable by pulling the cable housing retainer out of the clip and then manipulating the cable out of the Trunk lock.



4. Remove the Trunk lock by removing the 2 10mm hex bolts.

5. Swap the trunk lock rod from the old trunk lock to the new trunk lock. Do not reverse the orientation of the lock rod. Remove the lock rod from the old trunk lock as in step 1. Transfer the lavender colored retainer clip to the new trunk lock. Squeeze the tabs on the retainer clip in order to remove it from the old trunk lock.



6. Reinstall the new trunk lock by mounting it with the 2 10mm hex bolts.

7. Reinstall in the trunk light switch.

8. Reroute the Trunk pop cable so that it can be reinstalled on the new trunk lock. Try to make the bend radius of the cable as large as possible to prevent binding.



9. Reinstall the lock rod onto the key cylinder.

So that should have taken you like 15 minutes. Now comes the hard part. The trunk requires a 12v+ signal to open. If you have an alarm that outputs + signal then you can just wire the blue wire from the trunk opener to the signal wire of your alarm. If your alarm outputs a negative pulse like mine did, you need to use the relay that comes with the kit. It looks like this:



There are four prongs and to attached wires to them, I recommend you go to the hardware store and pick up some 22-18 gauge connectors.

So here is how the wiring goes for the relay. If you look on the diagram on the relay there are two prongs associated with coil/resistor and the other two prongs have a switch in between them. You'll want to connect you cars 12v line to one of the prongs with coil and one of the prongs with the switch. Doesn't matter which one. Then, you want to put the negative output wire from your alarm to the other coil prong and the wire to the trunk release in the other switch prong. That's it. If you hold the button for the trunk release on your remote, the relay should click. If it clicks, you know its powered and working. Make sure you ground the relay as well.

It should work then, to hide the wires, I tucked it under the door sill along the carpet line and through the back seat.

NOTE: Make sure you use the 12v line from the battery or from the steering column harness. I tried to use the 12v from the OEM alarm harness and it didn't have enough current.

That's it, hope this helps everyone looking to get remote access to their trunk.

-Obs

Obsidian

iTrader: (1)

Just figured I'd bump this thread, it's been a while and I'm sure someone new out there wants to get auto trunk release like me.

VtecIvIc

how do u know if your alarm outputs a negative or positive signal?

Obsidian

iTrader: (1)

Depending on your alarm, it should say in the documentation. If you have a remote control that has a button for trunk opening, then find the documentation that links that button to the specific output wire on the brain (alarm unit), in the diagram, it should tell you which output it is, and the polarity of the output.

Wanger

iTrader: (4)

there is no truck release button on my oem alarm remote.... how does this work then?

Importracer

iTrader: (1)

anyone have a KARR alarm system? Or can you guys help me find out which thing coming of the module is for the trunk release? Because i have a thing on my transmitter for the trunk option and if i can figure this out then i will surely do this DIY.... help me please.

Obsidian

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have a trunk release button, do you have any buttons other than lock/unlock? If not then you can't do it because your alram doesn't have an additional output for trunk release.

Obsidian

iTrader: (1)

You might want to check out http://www.karrsecurity.com/auto.htm for your alarm system.

Macko

I was thinking of seeing how the wiring on my my friends 1.7 EL is and wire it up. because the 1.7 EL is the same as the Civic Sedan but has remote/power trunk

Obsidian

iTrader: (1)

There a difference for the Civic because the civic does not have a built in aux output for trunk opening. I mean, physically all you need is a positive +12V contact fed into the trunk popper. This just happens to be supplied by many after market alarms. On the accords, the default alarm harness built into the car has such an output. However, on the civics they don't. If you notice, the civics (LX, EX) also have a default alarm harness under driver kick panel. This is for the OEM Honda security. However, there is no built in aux output for trunk release. The OEM security that we can buy for the civics doesn't have a button for trunk release.

Bottom line, if you want to get auto trunk release you'll need two things.

1) An alarm system/remote brain that will output a pure 12V+ or relay with -.

2) 98-01 Accord Trunk popper.

Other stuff:
You could buy other solenoid kits but why would you if you can get a bolt on?

grenloch101056

iTrader: (11)

when you convert the trunk latch, the trunk can still be popped when you pull the lever inside the car, right?

petes97

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I have the 2001 model accord latch in mine, and the alram is not hooked up yet. It functions the same manually, but added an electric 12v input.

mos_skeeto

I have a trunk button on my alarm control. Should I be able to use it with a trunk opener?

ohmysac

iTrader: (5)

yes you can...this is how my setup is...do a search

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

wish there was a way to modify the OEM keyless entry w/ it, i'm not gonna buy an aftermarket alarm just for that

YS

iTrader: (4)

can you use OEM keyless entry for accord???which one should i buy??? 2 door model or 4 door model?????? what's the difference???

ohmysac

iTrader: (5)

4 door is what i have...

DeX

I'm in the process of hooking this up to the Compustar alarm in my 2005 Civic DX Coupe. Got it all hooked up and working mechanically, now just have to wire if up electronically!

rice4lyfe

iTrader: (9)

wow, night of the living dead...thread

DeX

I hooked everything up and it doesn't work, the relay isn't even clicking. Here is my idea of the relay if you're looking at the pins on it from the bottom.


5 |-----------
___|_________|

....._____
1 | - - | 2
3 |_-_-_| 4

So if I got it right, there's the 4 pins in the relay and then the metal piece sticking out of it is the ground?
So from the diagram I get that 1 and 3 seem to be the switch and 2 and 4 are the coil/resistor. That right? I am already running a 10 geuge power wire straight from the battery to power the computer so I just tapped into that with a 18 gauge wire which I split into 2 more wires and then put 1 wire to the switch and one to the coil. Then I ran a wire from the trunk actuator to the other switch pin on the relay. And lastly, one more wire from the Compustar brain to the other coil on the relay.

So if I confused you, here's now it is.....
1 = 12 volt power
2 = 12 volt power
3 = trunk actuator
4 = from Compustar
5 = ground bolted to frame

I know the Compustar is sending a switched signal down this wire. I still have to check it with a multimeter, but the diagrams all say that's the place for the trunk wire. What am I doing wrong? Was I supposed to split one single 12 volt source to those 2 prongs on the relay? Does it matter if I use the top switch/coil for the 12 volt instead of the bottom switch/coil? I'm no good with relays.

DeX

Edited

DeX

Nevermind, I had everything hooked up, just never had the wire far enough into the board on the alarm unit. That little thing was all it was, but now it works and I love it! Thanks!

DieMaster

iTrader: (5)

aparently Handa acc. dosent cary it anymore. that link dosent work and i cant find it on there site.

but i found this site that has them for just about the same price.
http://www.secureleadercom.com/exsto...ield=inetsdesc

my question is does the DX/LX have the electric popper or only the EX one? will the EX one fin the the 7thgen?

DeX

You can just go to Honda and buy one, that's what I did.

DieMaster

iTrader: (5)

for $30?

DeX

I paid $70 but it beats the stress of trying to find one online.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

Just put in the 99 Accord as your vehicle and navigate to the trunk lid page. Part #12 and its $24.25.

doobiest

Questions:

In this DIY it says to reconnect the trunk light connector. This step seems misleading because i dont see anywhere that it would plug in. Instead I cut the wires and hooked them up directly. Any thoughts?

Also it says the blue wire is the 12+ for popping the trunk. I have two blue wires on mine, which is the right on. One goes right to the lock and the other goes to the additional black plastic module the screws into the lock.

DeX

I don't think you're supposed to do anything with the trunk light wire, why did you cut it? The only wiring you have to do in the trunk is to run a wire back there to activate the solenoid and plug it into the popper with a butt connector.