double clutching
A long winded 7th genr
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Re: double clutching
"Double clutching" is when you depress the clutch pedal twice between gears. For example: lets say you're in third gear racing down the street, you press the clutch pedal down to the floor, then pull the shifter out of third and let it into the neutral position then release the clutch completely. after that, you press the clutch back down into the floor and move the shifter into the four gear position and then let the clutch back in to connect the gear. You can do it the other way too, from fourth to third when you go around corners and such. And, I'm not an expert, but I heard the reason that racers used to double clutch back in the day was because the transmissions didn't have the syncronizing gears that they do have today. And when you double clutch, it allows the gears to engage smoother and quicker. You can do it with your civic if you wanted to, but It doesn't really give you an advantage like Vin diesel makes it seem... you know what i'm talkin 'bout. I went through a phase where I double clutched like just for the hell of it for a couple of days, and eventually I just got tired of it.
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Re: double clutching
your missing an important step...... after putting in clutch pedal, shift too neutral, rev engine up to approx. where RPM will be once mated to lower gear. put clutch in and down shift, let clutch out quickly while revs are still up.
now, with synchros, put clutch in, while downshifting, give the gas a good stomp to bring revs up, let clutch out with lower gear engaged. You can eliminate letting clutch out while in neutral. this is called rev matching your down shift.
now, with synchros, put clutch in, while downshifting, give the gas a good stomp to bring revs up, let clutch out with lower gear engaged. You can eliminate letting clutch out while in neutral. this is called rev matching your down shift.
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From: destroying my suspension on pot-holes
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Unless your car has worn-out synchronizers, there is absolutely NO REASON for you to be double-clutching. Just because Vin Diesel thinks it makes you go fast, doesn't mean it actually does.
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http://www.10w40.com/individual/100186.asp
Powershifting, grannyshifting, and double-clutching.
Powershifting is effectively shifting without fully releasing the clutch. You keep the gas pedal down while you only use about half the clutch travel to shift hard and fast. This is incredibly hard on a transmission, and in fact simply will not work on most transmissions. Without fully pushing in the clutch on most cars, you can neither pull the shifter out of gear nor put it into a new one (and it will grind as you try).
Granny shifting is when you take a slight pause in neutral between gears when shifting. So instead of going smoothly from 2nd to 3rd, you pull out of 2nd, stop for a moment in neutral along the way, then go into 3rd, and let the clutch out again. Very slow.
And double-clutching? It's like granny shifting except that you actually let the clutch out when you're in neutral, bring up the engine RPMs again, then push in the clutch and go into the next gear. And you do it all VERY fast. This was especially necessary on older cars before synchro gears smoothed the processes of changing gears in the gearbox. It is also a way to avoid grinding gears on transmissions that have been damaged by powershifting too much.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/youngdrivers/articles/116920/article.html
Myth #5: It's normal for the car to lurch when downshifting.
When you do downshift (without coming to a complete stop) it's important to "rev-match." This means raising the engine's rpm as you release the clutch to more closely match your vehicle's engine speed to the rear-wheel speed. Again, this is only important on downshifting. As you accelerate and upshift you don't have to worry about rev-matching. By giving the engine just a bit of throttle when you downshift you can make the clutch engagement smoother, which reduces clutch wear and head bobbing on downshifts.
If you get really good at rev-matching you can even try heel-and-toe downshifting(http://www.edmunds.com/advice/youngdrivers/articles/119593/article.html),
which is what racers use to get the smoothest downshifts, and the best lap times, around a road course. Heel-and-toe shifting is actually a whole other article, but in short you must apply both the brake pedal and the gas pedal simultaneously, thus slowing the car down and rev-matching the engine to rear-wheel speed — all at the same time. This can be accomplished by carefully placing your right foot on the brake pedal and the gas pedal.
But for the sake of your clutch, and the safety of your fellow drivers, please don't try heel-and-toe shifting until you've fully mastered the basics mentioned above!
Powershifting, grannyshifting, and double-clutching.
Powershifting is effectively shifting without fully releasing the clutch. You keep the gas pedal down while you only use about half the clutch travel to shift hard and fast. This is incredibly hard on a transmission, and in fact simply will not work on most transmissions. Without fully pushing in the clutch on most cars, you can neither pull the shifter out of gear nor put it into a new one (and it will grind as you try).
Granny shifting is when you take a slight pause in neutral between gears when shifting. So instead of going smoothly from 2nd to 3rd, you pull out of 2nd, stop for a moment in neutral along the way, then go into 3rd, and let the clutch out again. Very slow.
And double-clutching? It's like granny shifting except that you actually let the clutch out when you're in neutral, bring up the engine RPMs again, then push in the clutch and go into the next gear. And you do it all VERY fast. This was especially necessary on older cars before synchro gears smoothed the processes of changing gears in the gearbox. It is also a way to avoid grinding gears on transmissions that have been damaged by powershifting too much.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/youngdrivers/articles/116920/article.html
Myth #5: It's normal for the car to lurch when downshifting.
When you do downshift (without coming to a complete stop) it's important to "rev-match." This means raising the engine's rpm as you release the clutch to more closely match your vehicle's engine speed to the rear-wheel speed. Again, this is only important on downshifting. As you accelerate and upshift you don't have to worry about rev-matching. By giving the engine just a bit of throttle when you downshift you can make the clutch engagement smoother, which reduces clutch wear and head bobbing on downshifts.
If you get really good at rev-matching you can even try heel-and-toe downshifting(http://www.edmunds.com/advice/youngdrivers/articles/119593/article.html),
which is what racers use to get the smoothest downshifts, and the best lap times, around a road course. Heel-and-toe shifting is actually a whole other article, but in short you must apply both the brake pedal and the gas pedal simultaneously, thus slowing the car down and rev-matching the engine to rear-wheel speed — all at the same time. This can be accomplished by carefully placing your right foot on the brake pedal and the gas pedal.
But for the sake of your clutch, and the safety of your fellow drivers, please don't try heel-and-toe shifting until you've fully mastered the basics mentioned above!
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