Auto VS Manual...the FINAL CONCLUSION.
also you may have been confused by the fact that RWD is no good in bad weather (rain, snow ect.). In this situation the car is not able to get enough traction to get weight on the rear tires so it is compleatly a weight issue and FWD has more weight over the rear tires than RWD so it is better
My rectum hurts........
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You put it down pertty good.... Covered it all. Im a firm bealiever that the front wheels should be raised when punching it but I have much respects for Hondas its just sometimes theres some that get a problem wif me and I kinda go off on em 
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Yes, FWD cars have a changeable (car-specific) final drive gear. Higher-torque cars typically start with a lower final drive ratio (my VR6 has 3.4x, i think camaros and 'stangs have somewhere around 3.2) and lower-torque cars start with higher final drives, around 4.2x etc...
Why?
Because a higher final drive ratio helps to increase the torque multiplication factor of the gearset. (To be considered in conjunction with tranny gear ratios)
Higher ratio = more accleration... So let's give an example. We'll switch out for a gear that increases our accleration by 6%. We'll acclerate 6% faster in all gears, but we'll have to lower our top speed by 6% in all gears as well. So, if you shift out of first at 32 MPH, you'll now do it at 29.
This is a great mod to do for racing applications, if you car allows it. Who needs to go 140 anyway? The problem is gas consumption. If you cruise at 70 mph at 2900 RPM, you'll now do it at 3100, thereby burning more gas.
This mod is commonly done with a taller (lower ratio) 5th gear, so you can still cruise a lower RPM.
Yes, FWD cars have a changeable (car-specific) final drive gear. Higher-torque cars typically start with a lower final drive ratio (my VR6 has 3.4x, i think camaros and 'stangs have somewhere around 3.2) and lower-torque cars start with higher final drives, around 4.2x etc...
Why?
Because a higher final drive ratio helps to increase the torque multiplication factor of the gearset. (To be considered in conjunction with tranny gear ratios)
Higher ratio = more accleration... So let's give an example. We'll switch out for a gear that increases our accleration by 6%. We'll acclerate 6% faster in all gears, but we'll have to lower our top speed by 6% in all gears as well. So, if you shift out of first at 32 MPH, you'll now do it at 29.
This is a great mod to do for racing applications, if you car allows it. Who needs to go 140 anyway? The problem is gas consumption. If you cruise at 70 mph at 2900 RPM, you'll now do it at 3100, thereby burning more gas.
This mod is commonly done with a taller (lower ratio) 5th gear, so you can still cruise a lower RPM.
My rectum hurts........
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Originally Posted by senseiturtle
To answer the Mustang guy.
Yes, FWD cars have a changeable (car-specific) final drive gear. Higher-torque cars typically start with a lower final drive ratio (my VR6 has 3.4x, i think camaros and 'stangs have somewhere around 3.2) and lower-torque cars start with higher final drives, around 4.2x etc...
Why?
Because a higher final drive ratio helps to increase the torque multiplication factor of the gearset. (To be considered in conjunction with tranny gear ratios)
Higher ratio = more accleration... So let's give an example. We'll switch out for a gear that increases our accleration by 6%. We'll acclerate 6% faster in all gears, but we'll have to lower our top speed by 6% in all gears as well. So, if you shift out of first at 32 MPH, you'll now do it at 29.
This is a great mod to do for racing applications, if you car allows it. Who needs to go 140 anyway? The problem is gas consumption. If you cruise at 70 mph at 2900 RPM, you'll now do it at 3100, thereby burning more gas.
This mod is commonly done with a taller (lower ratio) 5th gear, so you can still cruise a lower RPM.
Yes, FWD cars have a changeable (car-specific) final drive gear. Higher-torque cars typically start with a lower final drive ratio (my VR6 has 3.4x, i think camaros and 'stangs have somewhere around 3.2) and lower-torque cars start with higher final drives, around 4.2x etc...
Why?
Because a higher final drive ratio helps to increase the torque multiplication factor of the gearset. (To be considered in conjunction with tranny gear ratios)
Higher ratio = more accleration... So let's give an example. We'll switch out for a gear that increases our accleration by 6%. We'll acclerate 6% faster in all gears, but we'll have to lower our top speed by 6% in all gears as well. So, if you shift out of first at 32 MPH, you'll now do it at 29.
This is a great mod to do for racing applications, if you car allows it. Who needs to go 140 anyway? The problem is gas consumption. If you cruise at 70 mph at 2900 RPM, you'll now do it at 3100, thereby burning more gas.
This mod is commonly done with a taller (lower ratio) 5th gear, so you can still cruise a lower RPM.
...I have 3.73 gears since my car is a daily driver and it eats gas bad enough already.. Registered!!
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Rep Power: 0 It's cool man!
I'm looking to change to a 3.73 gear, up from 3.4. My stock shift points are pretty damn high, 1 - 40 mph, 2- 70, 3rd - 98 etc. ... and I just don't need that tall of gearing for the acclerating gears. I'll also be putting in a .68 or so 5th, so I can cruise at a reasonable (25-2800) RPM on the freeway
I'm looking to change to a 3.73 gear, up from 3.4. My stock shift points are pretty damn high, 1 - 40 mph, 2- 70, 3rd - 98 etc. ... and I just don't need that tall of gearing for the acclerating gears. I'll also be putting in a .68 or so 5th, so I can cruise at a reasonable (25-2800) RPM on the freeway
My rectum hurts........
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Originally Posted by senseiturtle
It's cool man!
I'm looking to change to a 3.73 gear, up from 3.4. My stock shift points are pretty damn high, 1 - 40 mph, 2- 70, 3rd - 98 etc. ... and I just don't need that tall of gearing for the acclerating gears. I'll also be putting in a .68 or so 5th, so I can cruise at a reasonable (25-2800) RPM on the freeway
I'm looking to change to a 3.73 gear, up from 3.4. My stock shift points are pretty damn high, 1 - 40 mph, 2- 70, 3rd - 98 etc. ... and I just don't need that tall of gearing for the acclerating gears. I'll also be putting in a .68 or so 5th, so I can cruise at a reasonable (25-2800) RPM on the freeway
Registered!!
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Rep Power: 0 They certainly help out a lot... when you consider that they're the key factor in getting your car to move..
For the newbs -
Honda guys... ever wonder why you can run the 1/4 in 16 seconds with only 100 ft-lbs? ... Gearing... Put a big guy on each front tire, rotating it with 100 ft-lbs of torque, and it'll take 20 minutes to go 1/4 of a mile.
(The following numbers are just examples)
Stick that 100 ft-lbs on a 4.5 final drive with a 3.2 1st gear, and that 100 translates to 100 * 4.5 * 3.2 == 1440 lb-ft. That'll get a car moving. Now you can see why getting a bigger final drive increases accleration. Now, you can also see why you acclerate slower in the higher gears, since you have a lower multiplier.
For the newbs -
Honda guys... ever wonder why you can run the 1/4 in 16 seconds with only 100 ft-lbs? ... Gearing... Put a big guy on each front tire, rotating it with 100 ft-lbs of torque, and it'll take 20 minutes to go 1/4 of a mile.
(The following numbers are just examples)
Stick that 100 ft-lbs on a 4.5 final drive with a 3.2 1st gear, and that 100 translates to 100 * 4.5 * 3.2 == 1440 lb-ft. That'll get a car moving. Now you can see why getting a bigger final drive increases accleration. Now, you can also see why you acclerate slower in the higher gears, since you have a lower multiplier.
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Originally Posted by bgoetz
also you may have been confused by the fact that RWD is no good in bad weather (rain, snow ect.). In this situation the car is not able to get enough traction to get weight on the rear tires so it is compleatly a weight issue and FWD has more weight over the rear tires than RWD so it is better
throw some decent tires on, and the RWD handles just as well as the FWD.
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, US
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Originally Posted by senseiturtle
They certainly help out a lot... when you consider that they're the key factor in getting your car to move..
For the newbs -
Honda guys... ever wonder why you can run the 1/4 in 16 seconds with only 100 ft-lbs? ... Gearing... Put a big guy on each front tire, rotating it with 100 ft-lbs of torque, and it'll take 20 minutes to go 1/4 of a mile.
(The following numbers are just examples)
Stick that 100 ft-lbs on a 4.5 final drive with a 3.2 1st gear, and that 100 translates to 100 * 4.5 * 3.2 == 1440 lb-ft. That'll get a car moving. Now you can see why getting a bigger final drive increases accleration. Now, you can also see why you acclerate slower in the higher gears, since you have a lower multiplier.
For the newbs -
Honda guys... ever wonder why you can run the 1/4 in 16 seconds with only 100 ft-lbs? ... Gearing... Put a big guy on each front tire, rotating it with 100 ft-lbs of torque, and it'll take 20 minutes to go 1/4 of a mile.
(The following numbers are just examples)
Stick that 100 ft-lbs on a 4.5 final drive with a 3.2 1st gear, and that 100 translates to 100 * 4.5 * 3.2 == 1440 lb-ft. That'll get a car moving. Now you can see why getting a bigger final drive increases accleration. Now, you can also see why you acclerate slower in the higher gears, since you have a lower multiplier.
Registered!!
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Originally Posted by S2000man01
RWD is fine in bad weather. that's a common misconception. what most people fail to realize is that many RWD cars come with TIRES that are worse than those on your average FWD car when it comes to bad weather.
throw some decent tires on, and the RWD handles just as well as the FWD.
throw some decent tires on, and the RWD handles just as well as the FWD.
I just figured that... since with a RWD car, you're liable to slide out the back end under heavy accleration... which is possibly more dangerous than a little torque steer at WOT.
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