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just came back from the tracks
I have an 01 LX coupe A/T
with AEM sri, magnaflow catback, and pretty heavy motegi mr7s 17s.

anyways, i thought i did better than what i expected

best was

R/T - 0.693
60 ft - 2.608
330ft - 7.439
1/8 - 11.484
1/4 - 17.918
mph- 75.29

was my first track experience, (i never wanted to go cuz i knew my car was slow)
it was slow.. but now its not an 18 second car... its a 17 second car!!!

well all you other A/T LX guys should run similar times if not faster, i could work on my R/T..
anyways thanks for listening, i will probably never go to the track again, i had fun

Bboysushi

 
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Thank you... that gives me an iea about a buddy thats manual and has some decent mods.. thats kinda funy.. he has a ex manual with more mods and did about the same.. witha short shifter.

 
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i have i/e on my lx AT...thanx for the info....atleast i'll know what my car is capable of

 
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He needs to learn how to drive....

 
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how many runs did you do? just one? did you launch at all? just curious...i'd like to somewhat know what to expect at the track...so i don;t look like a complete dumbass.

 
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he must be worse than i was on my first time. i was forced through the waterbox, spun through 1st, and hit the rev limit and i still got a 17.2 with i/h/e, pullies.

 
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ive got i/h/e and motegi mr7s on a manual ex. think i could get a 15 in the 1/4?

 
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doubt it

 
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OHH GOODDDIEEEE I GOTTA 17SEC CAR!!!!!

 
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keep dreaming

 
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i/h/e on a d17 = waste of money.

 
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you're a waste of money.

 
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Dream heavily.....no way would you hit 15's wid that

 
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Do you like the AEM SRI and MagnaFlow Cat Back? I'm thinking of going in that direction on my own 2k1 LX Auto. Let me know.

Cheers,
ChiZX


PS - I don't think shaving 3 seconds in the quarter can be done with just 10 more HPs in the EX, just my opinion.

 
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now now...his opinion is valid...i mean headers on a 2002 civic MT gives bout .5hp and maybe maybe maybe 1.5 ft/lb

a full cat back you may get 3 hp

and a CAI you may be able to pull out 4 hp..

so the question is:

is 7.5hp worth the cost of a i/h/e

 
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deng all i wanted was to tell you info about the Automatic version of the civic
not to make it a flaming festival
any ways, if you want to bash on the manual trying to get 15s, please find/make another thread for that sole purpose
i know there are a lot of AT ppl here that dont goto the track, yet they want to see what they can do..

I like the setup pretty well,
the only reason for the SRI = you can see that lil filter to tell you i have something just a bit more then stock
reason for magnaflow? - its pretty damn quiet at idle, and somewhat gets going at higher RPMs

Bboysushi

 
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i have that exact setup. its not gonna do much for now. it'll sound good, and look good. i wont; make ya much faster. and for those of you think that i/h/e is a waste...well its not if we have plans of boostin or doin internal work. i/h/e is just a stepping stone to the larger mods. so in that light, its not a waste of money.

 
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To be 100% honest.. i/h/e is the wasy people go now.. when modding a car used to be extremely rare back in the 30s-60's or even late 70's there were no i/h/e that were not all custom done.. a person would modify their car by changing the bore and strok and displacement (being how american cars are), it wasn't until at least the early 80s or so that i/h were even relatively available..

I/H/E you'd to be a more after the fact thing.. like we think of cams or port & polish today.. FYI... know the history...

The way it's done today is better grant you.. but bare in mind all power isn't made from i/h/e, most racers actually get cam gear(s), pulley sets, a port & polish.. bored out throttle bodies.. intake manifold.. and then work with internals or work around plans for boost..

 
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i wonder if the turbo kits will help use out(us auto ppl). even though im saving my money to get a Z06 after college. still might keep the civic for the winter beat...maybe throw on a turbo to make it a 14 sec car...that will beat almost every car around my town.

 
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exactly, thats what my dad told me. yes engine swaps were popular in the 70s too changing the 250 for a 302 and what not but internals, displacement, etc were what gave you the boom. And it still does, a lot of people forget how important their pistons, cams, pulleys, and everything that makes their car run is. If you really want a bang without all the bling, build the engine from the inside out

 
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.. Then your dad knows his history..

Swaps were ig, it was easier becuase everything basically had a similar chassis so there wasn't much modding of the mounts..

What I may do is since I have i/e already, once I get back up get a header and then get a port and polish and change out the valve stems, valve springs, and the retainer, chip it and set the redline to maybe 8 or so, I have to figure out how you go about figure out the max engine rpms before things are going to fast and inertia loss cuases a loss of power without the right other parts.. rods, etc.. or when the limit before the rod or crank gives and something goes boom! lol.

 
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Back to the thread... Thank you for the info, it was qiute helpful...

Also.. a nice little thing for an auto transmission is a torque converter.. by setting your idle speed up higher there is generally less lag of power or none, and it starts you out higher in the rpm range so you can hit your sweet spot faster..

 
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i second that lol

 
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hmmm i wonder how my AT LX-G sedan with only an FIPK will do...

did you brake-torque bboysushi?

 
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Sorry, I'm late. I didn't notice this thread. Thanks for the info bboysushi! I have an auto LX with only I/H.