MatthaiN

iTrader: (1)

MelJ i can 90% say that it is most likely your axles or cv boot that is the problem there. The way you diagnose the input shaft bearing is whether or not the grinding sound is heard when the clutch pedal is in. If it isnt, then it is not the input shaft bearing most likely. You will only hear the grinding noise when the clutch pedal is out and only on deceleration in first or second gear at first. If not replaced soon, you will start to hear it in every gear on both acceleration and deceleration. It will sound like there is no pads left on your calipers and it is just contacting the rotor.

I had the axle and cv boot problem on my old ex. It is an easy fix if you take care of it yourself. Let me know if that is what it is.

513EM1

MatthaiN: Scroll down to my post, Its me that has the problem LOL

MatthaiN

iTrader: (1)

Woops, I got the wrong username. My bad. haha sorry.

513EM1

Its cool. But yeah, the sound stops right when i push the clutch in. Its actually more of a buzzing noise.

When Im accelerating/cruising in any gear its a different sound Im hearing, but it sounds like its coming from the tranny because when I push the clutch in , it stops. I've had my valves adjusted recently, so I know thats not where the ticking is coming from.

MatthaiN

iTrader: (1)

Have you been able to visually inspect the CV boots and axles? What you are saying now about the clutch being in and not hearing the noise is starting to sound more like the input shaft bearing. I am sure they wear differently and your noise may be completely different then mine was.

I know you also get the famous "ticking" on acceleration from a good exhaust leak. Are your running headers or the stock manifold? If you have the stock manifold, it may have cracked and you may have an exhaust leak which would be a good source of the ticking on acceleration. I recently took care of the exhaust leak on my 88 Yota 4x4. Just trying to go through all the options before we figure out whether or not it is the tranny. The only way to for sure know whether or not it is the bearing, is to pull the tranny and split the case... which is a pretty major job in of itself.

513EM1

I havent been able to look at the CV boots, or the axles. I am running headers, that have quite a bit of rust on them (typical for dc sport headers lol). I also just recently had a brand new exhaust/gaskets put on, so i dont think its a leak.

How serious is a bad input shaft bearing? Its my daily commuter so how long would you say before things go real bad? How much did you end up paying to have that done?

Sorry for the 21 questions..

MatthaiN

iTrader: (1)

The leak wont make a sound like that from a gasket. Its more from a crack in the metal somewhere.

When mine started going bad, it took about 300 miles before the noise got real bad. I wasnt going to stick around and find out what happened if the bearing went to pieces or the shaft itself went bad. I took it to the shop to get done. It was 300 to pull the tranny and diagnose, like a 100 in labor and 20 dollars in parts. It was less then 500 bucks for me, but the shop I took it to is one of the best Honda Performance shops here in WA. They build 8 Sec drag civics, so this work is quite common to them.

They also found a few other problems while my Em1 was in there, so I am glad I took it now.

513EM1

Alright, well I guess all i can do is wait and see if it gets any worse. If it does, to the shop it goes

Anyways thanks for the help. Ill keep ya posted

MatthaiN

iTrader: (1)

well today I was working on my Yota and thought, hey why not check the oil on the civic. I was down to about 2.75 quarts. Somehow I have burned through about a quart of oil in 1000 miles. Its a good thing I checked... that could of been a bad situation. I think the turbo might have a bad seal or its getting ready to go. It is almost 4 years old after all. I guess that just gives me an excuse to buy a new one

I certainly dont have any leaks anywhere else.

MindBomber

Oh wow, good thing you checked. Entering the danger zone there.

MatthaiN

iTrader: (1)

Video for the exhaust tone with the Apexi' WS2 exhaust:

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMIsvmcdeGo[/YOUTUBE]

MatthaiN

iTrader: (1)

April 6th, 2012

Well today I thought I would do the valve lash adjustment because it has been about 15k miles and about time needing it. I hadn't done one on a DOHC before and the book didn't specify that the feeler gauge was between the cam and valve stem. I have normally done them on the SOHC's. So i found this nifty little video on youtube that demonstrated it quite well.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv3Ed7VL59E&list=UUbu23t_90Kw_1d1Wf6SHbmw& index=38&feature=plcp[/youtube]Highly, highly suggest that channel's videos. They are extremely useful and really illustrate the process for simple DIY stuff.



Since I had the valve cover off, I thought it would be a great time to paint it too. It was black before and I wanted it to be red, so i went out and got some prep stuff and some VHT paint.



After stripping and pressure washing most of the paint off, I took it to the bath tub to wet sand and degrease some more. Yes I use my bath tub...

BTW dont get aircraft grade paint stripper on your bare skin. It sucks...



I was running out of daylight and wanted to paint soon, so I stuck it in the oven at 200 degrees for ten mins.



Masking off all the holes and the only letter I wanted to remain silver. Then prepping surface.



About six coats later... I havent decided if I want to paint the lettering black or not yet. It has to dry over night and then I can stick it in the oven once again at 200 degrees for 30 mins to cure it for final finish and then I am going to throw it back on the car and start her up. Hopefully it is a lot quieter now after the valve adjustment...

Some of the intake valves were a little tight which leads me to think I had valves sticking open and closed.. hopefully my adjustments solved the problems.

Tomorrow is the oil change. Dang turbos make you fly through oil.
April 7th, 2012

Well today started off great. I put the cover in the oven and cured the paint and then took it up to the garage to put back on the Si. Got it all on and started it up. Valves were definitely looser. I didnt double check my work. Pissed at myself because I dont like doing things a second time, I took it all back off again and readjusted all the valves again... this time double checking. Well I put the cover back on and as I was torquing my bolts the lower right bolt snapped off the stud. FML Luckily the valve cover is seated enough that it wasnt leaking. Good enough for me until I pull it again to replace the studs. Luckily they are the type that have the bolt attachment so I dont have to drill. So I just put some RTV around the little gasket/washer and put it back on. No leaks. Good enough for now.

Also did an oil change. In case anyone is curious, I use Synthetic 10W40 in my Si because of the turbo, otherwise it would be 5W30 like normal. I couldnt find a solid review on Lucas Oil Synthetic stabilizer, so I decided to go ahead and just try half a quart on this oil change and see if I can delay some of the thermal break down.

My Si is getting some blow by and I think the valve seals might be starting to go bad because I get a little white smoke here and there. I guess time will tell.

Red almost always looks better



Got an entire Stoptech Brake kit with SS brake lines for pretty cheap. Ill be doing all the rotors and pads here next week hopefully. I will also be painting the calipers then too since I will have them off.

MindBomber

Agree..

Stoptech big brake kit will be sick.