GaryC17

Anyone of you guys rolled your wheel fenders due to tire rubbing ? Any idea how I could go about doing it myself. I am planning on lowering my car a great due and correcting the camber with a camber kit. The problem is I have a set of rims with a offset of 37 and the fender to wheel clearance is very little when my car is fully loaded. If I were to correct the camber with the kit, I am sure the wheel will rub. Haven't seen any post on DIY fender rolling.

Mr.Modify

iTrader: (3)

yea i think some chick on here had her's done at discount tires but umm yea all ya need is a wooden baseball bat jack your car up and start rolling the fenders in!!! i have a link on that lemme find it !



This will give you a idea of what to do!!

Connie

iTrader: (3)

this should be in the wheels/tires/brakes forum....or maybe even the suspension forum

Mr.Modify

iTrader: (3)

oh yea and what he said!

maxsin

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

thats what rolling fenders means.... i get it now.

AR

iTrader: (2)

^^^ I knew it had something to do with the fenders in the wheel well... didn't know it's literal term though.

Oh well. I wont be dropping the ride any time soon.

BlueRevs

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that explain it well, good article Mr. Modify

born2xLr8

iTrader: (11)

This would be the girl that got her fenders rolled...
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Then don't drop it as far. Superleggeras right (The only wheel I know of with a 37 offset)?
Just don't slam it and it'll work fine. I know mine isn't going down more than an inch, and because of the illusion from the wheels fitting flush to the fender, it will make the gap seem smaller than it is.
If you wanted a total slam job you should have bought rims with more offset. Even if you roll them, they're still going to stick too far out to really drop it, you'll just smack the fenders themselves instead of the lip.
Your last (and I wouldn't recommend it) option is to go to a machine shop, have them put the wheel on a lathe and turn 2 or 3 mm off the mounting face of the wheel to change the offset to 39 or 40.

NorrinRadd

Additionally, if you do need to have your fenders rolled why not get them done cleaner thru plasma cutting of the rear fenders instead. This can be done at most autobody (especially custom truck shops) shops for $50 - $75. Well worth it as plasma/laser cuts will not compromise chassis integrity or cause paint chipping that rolling the fenders can cause. But like Boilermaker1 said rolling or cutting the fenders still won't eliminate it entirely if you slam it a lot, just reduce it.

GaryC17

Boilermaker1, you're right. I'm using that set of rims but I intend to sell them if I can't get the slammed looked. Will the wheels rub if I get a set of rims at offset of 45 and slam it ?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

45 and slamming will work a lot better than trying to slam 37s (which just isn't going to happen without some serious negative camber. Superleggys are race-oriented wheels... The offset was set like that to widen the track of the car.... for that purpose, they work very,very well.

VNlilMAN

iTrader: (7)

mine tuck too.. i just plan on rolling it and making as negative as i can... just make sure it doesnt hit the fender. i know i wont get a perfect alignment but it'll be good enough. keep in mind the car comes stock with a negative 0.5 camber

GaryC17

Boilermaker1, I don't see how that extra 8mm will do much good. With the legerras slammed, it barely misses the fender and it rides at approximately negative 2.5 degrees. With just an estimated 10mm including the initial clearance, how much camber can we salvage ? End of the day the rears will still ride at negative camber right ? As for the front, anyone have problems with fender clearance with a slammed ride at 0 degree camber ?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

8 mm is 3/8 of an inch... Thats A LOT when you're looking at what will clear and what wont. I believe -.5 degrees in the rear is within spec, although I'd have to get my last alignment sheet out and check it... I don't think you want it to be dead on 0. The tires have something to do with it too... 205mm tires will buy you more room vs a 215 tire. Its a big game, and you need to get a lot of things to work together to get the whole package to work. At the worst, just raise the car up. You can only get it so low before it stops being beneficial to your handling, you **** up your steering rack and tie rods, and start riding the bumpstops anyway. Get some 205/40 rubberband tires and see if you can set the tires straighter. I don't know what to tell you, just how low are you trying to get it?

GaryC17

Boilermaker1, I'm considering the Neuspeed Race which is specified to give 2.5" drop for the front and 2" drop for the rear. I would like to have the camber set to zero degrees for the front and the rear at a slight maybe -0.5degree which I believe is factory specs. I'm riding a sedan by the way and have not gotten the springs. Still doing my research work at the moment before I decide, that's why I am asking these questions here. By the way, you mentioned about the rack getting damaged. Could you elaborate ? Thanks.

obguam

iTrader: (1)

I have a sedan w/ 17" Superleggera's, 204/40 Nittos on stock suspension. Hella wheel gap. Ride's a bit harsh but handling is excellent. 2.5" might be too much drop, performance wise, IMO.

obguam

iTrader: (1)

Oops, they're 205/40s.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

If the springs say 2", on a sedan thats gonna be more because the *** of the sedan weighs more. With OZs, that will rub even with 205/40 rubberbands. Theres just nothing you can do about it. I played around just trying to load my trunk down from stock height and it looks like about 1 3/8" is about as low as you can make the back and not have problems. I guess you're getting new wheels or revising your plans. My only suggestion is to buy full coilovers and just start incrementally lowering them. Get yourself a camber gauge and adjust the camber as you go until you figure out how low it can go and stay in spec. Drive over big bumps every time you do it to make sure the suspension travels its full range.
About the steering... You can only go so far down before you start stretching out the tie rods. I don't know what the limit is, I know its about 2" on the Sis. When you do that, you damage the steering rack as because the gears get pulled on when you try to turn since the tie rods aren't long enough.

GaryC17

I have rode on coilovers with the rears slammed to negative fingers gap. No problems with my superlegs clearing the fenders but this is without any camber adjustments. If I were to straighten the wheel, it will hit. My plans are still to get the wheels straightened and to ride low !! But its just impossible with the superlegs, so I think getting a higher offset rim seems the only way. I doubt I can get it close to -0.5 degree camber for the rears even with 45mm offset rims. I guess that's the price to pay for low riding !

Crackhead79

iTrader: (1)

aren't you all worried about the paint cracking if you bend it in?

clownprince

iTrader: (5)

that's one reason for getting a body shop to do it. Its only about $40 or so and they can actually cut it flush so you can have that extra 1/2" to adjust the camber

Crackhead79

iTrader: (1)

Have you done that personally?

NorrinRadd

This a simple thing to do and helps immensely for camber adjustments. I did the samething and had a custom truck shop plasma cut my rear wheel fenders for $50. Very clean and quick, w/ no paint cracking or body denting cause by rolling fenders. Just take it any shop that does custom body work (usually truck shops) and they can do it for you no problem.

Crackhead79

iTrader: (1)

I went to a good shop and they wanted $300. I wasn't happy, but they couldn't plasma cut beuase it is spot-welded on the lip. It hold to body panels together. Not only that he said he would have to tape it and paint the cracking-that sucks. I just took my camber in -.5 and i'm all good.

VNlilMAN

iTrader: (7)

-.5 degree is what you want anyways