Installed my Goldline Springs. Here are some tips!
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From: Little Rock, Arkansas, US
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Installed my Goldline Springs. Here are some tips!
Much props to VNlilMAN for your DIY you posted. It helped me considerably. Here is some advise to anybody thinking about installing springs:
#1 Read the DIY carefully. Look at what you are fixing to do and think it through before you grab your tools.
#2 Make sure you understand how to mark your struts before you take the springs off. If you don't understand, you will when you try to put them back on.
#3 This made things go a lot faster. When you get the strut assembly off, stand it up in a vise. This makes it a thousand times easier to work with. I used the spring compressors from Autozone, that everybody on here talks about. The front springs took forever to compress because I had it on the ground or laying on a bench. My father-in-law came up with the idea of standing it up in his vise. I did the rear springs in 20 minutes. (that includes putting the new springs on) This also makes it easier to mark, so you can align everthing back up when you put the new springs on.
#4 Shave your bumber stops. My Goldlines recommended 1" for my application.
All in all, it took me about 6 hours. If I had to do it again, I would estimate it would take me 3 hours. Why? Live and learn. I didn't mark the first strut right, so nothing lined up when I went to put it back in. So I had to recompress the spring, take it off, stick the strut back in the car and mark it. Had I marked the strut right before I took the original spring off, I could've saved 2 hours. Putting the struts in a vise helped considerably.
For those who are curious: Yes I like my springs so far. I feel they ride better than factory. My car can handle turns faster and tighter. It looks way better without all the fender cap. Goldline guarntees no sag for life. We'll see.
#1 Read the DIY carefully. Look at what you are fixing to do and think it through before you grab your tools.
#2 Make sure you understand how to mark your struts before you take the springs off. If you don't understand, you will when you try to put them back on.
#3 This made things go a lot faster. When you get the strut assembly off, stand it up in a vise. This makes it a thousand times easier to work with. I used the spring compressors from Autozone, that everybody on here talks about. The front springs took forever to compress because I had it on the ground or laying on a bench. My father-in-law came up with the idea of standing it up in his vise. I did the rear springs in 20 minutes. (that includes putting the new springs on) This also makes it easier to mark, so you can align everthing back up when you put the new springs on.
#4 Shave your bumber stops. My Goldlines recommended 1" for my application.
All in all, it took me about 6 hours. If I had to do it again, I would estimate it would take me 3 hours. Why? Live and learn. I didn't mark the first strut right, so nothing lined up when I went to put it back in. So I had to recompress the spring, take it off, stick the strut back in the car and mark it. Had I marked the strut right before I took the original spring off, I could've saved 2 hours. Putting the struts in a vise helped considerably.
For those who are curious: Yes I like my springs so far. I feel they ride better than factory. My car can handle turns faster and tighter. It looks way better without all the fender cap. Goldline guarntees no sag for life. We'll see.
The Standard One
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Rep Power: 417 glad my diy could help...
how'd you manage to do the back in 20 mins? i'm thinking you didn't need the spring compressor to get the goldlines in... because when i was going my neuspeed sports, it was longer then stock and so i had to compress them alot and when i finally got them on n started de-compressing the spring compresser, it got "stuck" and had a tough time getting it out.
n yes i had to learn the hard way too... first time i did it, i didn't mark the strut at all. took me like 4 hours just to line it up right. only if i had access to them wall mount compressers
how'd you manage to do the back in 20 mins? i'm thinking you didn't need the spring compressor to get the goldlines in... because when i was going my neuspeed sports, it was longer then stock and so i had to compress them alot and when i finally got them on n started de-compressing the spring compresser, it got "stuck" and had a tough time getting it out.
n yes i had to learn the hard way too... first time i did it, i didn't mark the strut at all. took me like 4 hours just to line it up right. only if i had access to them wall mount compressers
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[hr]Originally posted by: mullinad
good advice ~ you just convinced me to get it done professionally... no offense...[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: mullinad
good advice ~ you just convinced me to get it done professionally... no offense...[hr]
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From: Mary Star Of The Sea
Rep Power: 0 here's a little of my $0.02 after lowering my car, and 2 others with Eibach Sportlines...haha
1) the struts should already be marked from the factory with coloured paint...
2) spring compressor isn't necessary with 2 people holding down the top plate when removing factory springs...
3) loosen the allen key and 17mm nut combo while it's still attached to the car...really helps
4) ditto the trimming of bump stops...you'll bottom out if you don't, and that sucks
5) if you DIY, do the front first, cause the rear is so much easier
and yeah, first car took awhile, learning pains, but now it's a 2-3 hour job...with hand jack to boot...
congrats on the DIY, it was fun eh?
1) the struts should already be marked from the factory with coloured paint...
2) spring compressor isn't necessary with 2 people holding down the top plate when removing factory springs...
3) loosen the allen key and 17mm nut combo while it's still attached to the car...really helps
4) ditto the trimming of bump stops...you'll bottom out if you don't, and that sucks
5) if you DIY, do the front first, cause the rear is so much easier
and yeah, first car took awhile, learning pains, but now it's a 2-3 hour job...with hand jack to boot...
congrats on the DIY, it was fun eh?
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From: Little Rock, Arkansas, US
Rep Power: 0 Camber? From what I can tell it, it wasn't affected much. It drives straight. The wheels look straight. I'm still going to have it realigned. Better safe than sorry.
Also, If you don't want to compress the springs yourself, my local Exxon (Mastercraft) said they would only charge $58 if I brought the struts and springs to them.
Hey VNlilMAN, when I said 20 minutes, that doesn't count jacking the car up, taking off the tires, etc.. I was just talking about taking the old springs off and putting the new ones on. All in all, maybe an hour. Compared to the front, it went really fast.
Also, If you don't want to compress the springs yourself, my local Exxon (Mastercraft) said they would only charge $58 if I brought the struts and springs to them.
Hey VNlilMAN, when I said 20 minutes, that doesn't count jacking the car up, taking off the tires, etc.. I was just talking about taking the old springs off and putting the new ones on. All in all, maybe an hour. Compared to the front, it went really fast.
The Standard One
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: Machina
1) the struts should already be marked from the factory with coloured paint...[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Machina
1) the struts should already be marked from the factory with coloured paint...
[hr]
The Standard One
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From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 417 i'll explain it using the back struts since it has fewer peices...
you have the top mount and bottom mount.... you have to put it back exactly the same as how you took it apart. this is so that all the bolts/holes line up when you put it back on the car. for example if you line it up wrong and you try putting it back on the car, you might be able to fit the two bolts on the top mount inside the hole but the bottom bolt wont fit since its not lined up correctly.
if you havn't made marks it would be a guessing game, you have to take apart your strut, turn the top mount a lil and put the strut back together. you have to keep doing it till it finally fits in your car
so ya before you take apart the shock, get a straight edge and make corresponding marks on the top and bottom strut. honda has already made one using i think green paint but its off so its better to make your own.
you have the top mount and bottom mount.... you have to put it back exactly the same as how you took it apart. this is so that all the bolts/holes line up when you put it back on the car. for example if you line it up wrong and you try putting it back on the car, you might be able to fit the two bolts on the top mount inside the hole but the bottom bolt wont fit since its not lined up correctly.
if you havn't made marks it would be a guessing game, you have to take apart your strut, turn the top mount a lil and put the strut back together. you have to keep doing it till it finally fits in your car
so ya before you take apart the shock, get a straight edge and make corresponding marks on the top and bottom strut. honda has already made one using i think green paint but its off so its better to make your own.
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