My alignment specs....
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From: Chino Ca
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Left Front
Actual Camber -.50
Actual Caster 2.75
Actual Toe 0.19
Right Front
Actual Camber 0.04
Actual Caster 2.50
Actual Toe 0.19
Left Rear
Actual Camber -1.25
Actual Toe 0.18
Right Rear
Actual Camber -0.44
Actual Toe 0.15
Alingment done with megan coilovers at Big O tires, does it look good
Actual Camber -.50
Actual Caster 2.75
Actual Toe 0.19
Right Front
Actual Camber 0.04
Actual Caster 2.50
Actual Toe 0.19
Left Rear
Actual Camber -1.25
Actual Toe 0.18
Right Rear
Actual Camber -0.44
Actual Toe 0.15
Alingment done with megan coilovers at Big O tires, does it look good
alignment specs should be in a specific range. If your car is lowered you will definitely need a camber kit for a perfect alignment. The alignment specs on your car are off. Front specs should be: camber -0.8 to 0.8, caster 1.2 to 3.2, and toe -0.12 to 0.12, but if your car is lowered most places will only set the toe because lowering the car max's out the camber. the rear specs should be: camber -1.5 to 0.0 and toe 0.04 to 0.16 caster has no adjustment. You should take it back and have them redo it.
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the guy told me that they could not set the toe all the way b/c the tie rod were you adjust the toe he said it was maxed out, so i was thinking rase the ride hight to like 1 finger gap b/c now i tuckin my fronts
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The car only goes so low before you start putting tires through the fenders or ripping the tie rods out of the steering box. You may not hit the bump stops because you'll hit something else first. There is such a thing as TOO LOW and not too many people seem to realize that. You're already out of tie rod travel with out a set alignment, which means you've got no room to spare, you hit a bump, they've got no where to go, not to mention you start putting the frame into play with the tie rod angle, the chance is there that you basically bind the tie rod on the frame and snap it in half.
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