Rep Power: 0

ok basically im looking to keep my drop about the same with the eibach sportlines i have now, but im looking for a setup that give me alot more stability at speed lets just say 100 + since thats what im mostly concerned about
i have adjustable koni yellows and have been toying with those for a bit.
what springs would suit my needs better? im just at a loss with all my searching.
thanks for the help

 
Rep Power: 453

when will you be needing to go 100+ MPH, no speed limit permits this.

 
Rep Power: 0

please only reply if you have information to share about the topic.
All other remarks and **** just keep it to yourself please.

 
Rep Power: 0

and if you must know im running on the dry lake bed this car aint my daily ride

 
Rep Power: 453

No need to get an attitude man, it was just a question. Sometimes asking questions like that yeilds better answers for you.

 
Rep Power: 412

chill out, clarification is a good thing and he just wanted to know why you would be going 100+.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1320602

This guy has a 7thgen with a bseries in it that does salt flat racing. You might want to contact him to see what he suggests.

 
Rep Power: 0

thank you for posting something useful your a huge help as usual robbclark, i just hate ti when you ask a question and people just try to make remarks about it instead of asnwering the thing in the first place. Oh btw ill be out that way for my buds wedding i think its nov 19th or something ill check for sure later

 
Rep Power: 0

I am assuming that you are talking about El Mirage dry lake? if so, the high speed stability is a big issue. The scariest ride I ever took was at there going 130 MPH. I almost spun the car. honestly, a FWD, I almost spun it.

The dirt surface has no grip, so the traditional thinking of asphalt setup goes out the window. This trick for there is to make the front end run very flat, with minimal grip and give maximum compliance on the rear end. Believe it or not, you will need the rear end grip since any high speed "hunting" will get amplified at the rear, making you very tail happy.

So, if all you are looking for is straight line stability on a low grip surface with the 7th gen then here is my setup on my car.

Dampers stock, front and rear
Ground control springs front, 500 lb/in
Ground control springs rear, 325 lb/in
rear sway bar removed (important!)
Progress Technology front sway bar

This setup is very good up to about 150 mph or so on dirt. Is works well up to about 175 on salt. Over that, I had to go to a full set of Progress Coilovers with the same rates listed above. This was necessary only to get better rebound damping on the rear.

 
Rep Power: 0

what more can i say

 
Rep Power: 412

I'm assuming you are the old Mirage with the B-series?

Why stock dampers? Why wouldn't konis be beneficial.

 
Rep Power: 412

Streetglower wasn't trying to be an ***, he was just asking for clarification. going 100mph down the strip is different for going 100mph in the salt flats. He is very helpful to many people on this site so please don't knock his knowledge or helpfulness. Thanks...

 
Rep Power: 288

for showing restraint and not closing this thread...


ROBB AND SG are 2 of the more helpful mods on here...trust me you'd like to stay on a good rep with a mod....


There don't you feel special now? hehe

 
Rep Power: 412

sg has no powers in my world!

 
Rep Power: 0

Yep, it's me. I'm still Mirage on H-T.

Konis would not be bad, It's just that there are really no problems that the stock dampers can't handle when going under 160 or so. The stiff front suspension setup effectively eliminates any front suspension movement at all so the dampers play almost no role in the front. The rear is left very compliant and the stock dampers work just fine.

However, once the speeds get up to 175+, every movement of the car is amplified and even slight corrections can induce large body roll. Long distance undulations in the surface of the track that are not even noticible at slower speeds can start to pack up the suspension and then you really have to be able to adjust the compression/rebound of the shocks to tune them out.

Again, all this is for straight line, no turns, drag race style acceleration or heavy braking on a traction limited smooth surface. Pretty unique with almost no crossover for anybody doing anything else!

I have run over 165 with the above listed setup and it was as smooth and easy as driving on a new freeway. You can take the stock dampers to 200mph, but the course has to be real smooth. I had them up to 205 mph (unofficial) in August but scared myself pretty good. The track was poor and the rear end was packing up real bad, forcing me to lift to recover.

 
Rep Power: 424

You need high speed shock damping. Something that can react so fast it won't rebound a second time over the same bump. Stiff springs will just keep the car from being forced down. The higher the rates go, the smoother you better pray the surface is. If the flats are real smooth, you probably can go up in the 600-800 range (like a race track only car). If you stand the chance of unevenness at all, I'd stay down below 6. Any bump that fast with real stiff rates will upset the car.

 
Rep Power: 0

Exactly. Thats why I now have the Progress coil overs. The course is very, very smooth. The real fast streamliners (over 300 mph) have no suspension at all, hard mount on all four corners. They prep the courses for those cars. That makes it real smooth for the rest of us. The only time we have a problem is when we get real long undulations (like 200 ft, peak to peak), then you may get into a harmonic and start getting out of hand. That's what happened last time.

It's a really weird track to setup for. There are no bumps at all and it's really traction limited. There are constant course corrections, never turning the wheel, just applying pressure but even then getting a pretty severe lateral G load. The total lack of traction makes the rear try to slide out. You end up setting it up like a sprint kart that has too much front grip.

The best way to describe what it's like to drive on these surfaces is like driving a thin loose snowpack over solid ice. There is a tiny amount of grip but anything sudden will just result in a spin. I have 540 WHP and even with Proxies and a Quaife, I can easily spin the tires whenever I'm under 165 MPH. You have to be super smooth and the chassis setup tends to go to extremes to get it to behave.

The RWD cars just pack hundreds of lbs of lead in the car to go fast. The really fast (300 MPH) doorslammers have as much as 3000 lbs of lead in them!!!!!. I have 200 lbs in the front but don't want to add more. Right now, there are just a handfull of FWD cars running over 200 MPH so we are still trying to figure it out.

 
Rep Power: 0

I love your car cause it still has all it's ameties, radio, carpet, seats, and I even think I saw dice on your mirror in one magazine, dope!