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Hey all, there is something that I noticed about a month ago but haven't paid too much attention to. It has to do with my passenger side lower wishbone joint. Hopefully you all know what I am talking about, but it connects to the vehicle and pivots via two connections to the frame or something. Well, on the connection closest to the front bumper of my civic, it looks like the joint has begun to seperate from the rest of the suspension. The joint is covered with rubber. Hopefully you all know what I am talking about, but I think this may have happened because I have curbed that passenger side front wheel many times. Can this be fixed by myself or would I need a professional to fix it? I just found a picture of the entire font suspension, the problem that I am describing is at #17. Thanks.

 
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its number 12...basically ur gonna want a press to push the bushing out and put a new one in.. altho, if you have curbed that side a few times you might as well replace the whole lower control arm...

 
Rep Power: 338

you are looking at the driver side control arm... and 17 is a bolt...

 
Rep Power: 412

You will need a press. You can pop the control arm out easy and take it a mechanic with a press. I would just go to a junk yard and pull off a LCA from a wrecked car, that is if it isn't bent or torn.

BTW it isn't a wishbone suspension. It is just a lower control arm.

 
Rep Power: 380

Its pretty normal for a car to chew up the Stock lower control arm bushings when you lower the car... You should have seen mine when I finally changed them out.

 
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Maybe somebody can help. I was thinking this might be causing a cracking noise? I have replaced my struts/mounts and everything, and I still get a noise from the middle-right of my car when I turn left mostly. WOuld rhis be something I need to consider replacing to fix this?

 
Rep Power: 412

probably not. They don't move. IF you are turning and not moving and it is making the sound, then it is something in the shock/strut/spring that is either loose or not right.

If it only happens when driving, then maybe. You can look at them and see if they are worn.

 
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I have a diffrent opinion. I was at the library tonight researching this very condition. i have the crunch and pop in my front and in the rear i have this creaking sound. At our library we have free access to ALLdata, which is what the mechanics use to repair our cars. [check out your library for this info, its good shIet] They give instructions how to diagnose, recreate, and resolve all kinds of issues. They list all the TSB's and each one has very specific instructions which I found quite interesting. Anyway, let me tell ya about my rear wheels, since i installed my agx in the rear i hear this creaking like an old rocking chair when i go over any small bump, and its annoying. i can replicate the noise just by pressing on the rear bumper. Turns out there is a TSB on this very issue, and they say it can be duplicated by pressing down on the rear bumper!! i couldnt beleive that. It also says that if your car is out of warranty that a dealer might fix the problem out of their goodwill. so i fugure if they will give me the parts i may replace the bushing, although they are a bitcch to push out without a machine. I will attach a photo of the Rear Knuckle Front Bushing that is responsible for all my crappy noise, so I am looking forward to asking the dealer for a little 'goodwill' the next time i bring the car in for an antifreeze flush.

I think your issue is the other TSB i was reading about on the front end noise, cause the solution was to replace that item #12 in the diagram in your post. THere is a special tool to remove and insert the bushing, but you can take the lower control arm to a mechanic and he could do the work for you. Again, the TSB indicated that if you are out of your warranty the dealer may extend some goodwill and do it for you for free as you get other work done on your car. Good luck.

here is the pic i of the rear: (i attached it)

 
Rep Power: 412

Ok, I know what the rubber bushings are in the rear and I have replaced mine and NO you do not need a mechanic for the rears. They can be done at home, although 1 is really hard to get out and actually needs to be burned out. If you are only replacing those two bushings all you need is a 1' threaded rod, some large washers and some nuts. Those two bushings are so easy to get out. The one attached to the car is a bitch.

Gabe was talking about the front control arm bushings and no those do not move left to right. I know the bushings go up and down. He said he was having a problem when he turned left. If the noise occurs when not in motion, then it is due to the shock/spring combo or the tie rod. If it only occurs while driving, it might (but probably not) be a front bushing.

 
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i roger that on the rear bushing, so you had the squeaking too? I am going to my dealer with this one, I know I got the skill to replace them, but, if I can get the dealer to do it, then great. The only bad thing about going to the dealer is that they always seem to screw something else up...

Which bushing are you talking about when you say the one that is attached to the car that is the bittch? They both appear to be attached to the car as much as the other. is it the front or the rear bushing?

Does anyone think the cracking noise on the left turn could be the CV joint?

 
Rep Power: 412

No I replaced mine with poly ones. Those are attached to the wheel hub which is attached to the control arm. There is another bushing underneath the rear jack point that attaches the lower control arm to the car.