Rep Power: 0

I tried holding down the springs while I turn the perch. It only works for about 5 threads. I tried holding the springs+rubber to the same direction, it only turns about 5threads before I start ripping the rubber apart.

Complain to SPW again...and this should be resolved in 5 months no?

 
Rep Power: 0

Who knows? Maybe they will have v3 by then which will solve everyone problem haha. 5 threads from no pre-load to pre-load? 5 threads are enough pre-load already, if you start tearing apart the rubber mean you add too much pre-load already...

 
Rep Power: 0

I thought somebody said something about one inch of pre-load??? Thats what I was trying to achieve

 
Rep Power: 0

nono You don't need more than an inch of pre-load. If you can get about 1/2" of pre-load is more than enough.

 
Rep Power: 368

I'm on 3/4" preload.

 
Rep Power: 417

Why not just spin ALL of it together??? the isolators, spring AND perch.

 
Rep Power: 0

Got the alignment done today.
I know I should have waited a bit longer for the springs to settle more, but I couldn't stand the wandering-civic-effect!
With a the alignment done, fixed the major toe-in on the front, everything seems to be great!
The only rant I have is, the "camber hole" in the front struts are useless because of the snug fit of both bolts. But I guess a camber kit would solve all that.

Another little problem that is annoying me is there's a click when I have the steering turned almost full lock, and start to reverse. It's just one click and it doesn't happen in forward. Any comments or ideas about this one?

 
Rep Power: 417

"The only rant I have is, the "camber hole" in the front struts are useless because of the snug fit of both bolts. But I guess a camber kit would solve all that."
snug fit? you know that you have to loosen BOTH bolts in order to adjust it right. If only the top one is loosened and you try to adjust it, its not going to work.

As for the click, its only in reverse? it sounds like something else and not the suspension

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah, I guess I should elaborate a bit more about the camber hole. There's only one way to get the top bolt in when installing. I mean, once both bolts are in, they top bolt has no room to move, it's fixed at one side. Hard to explain. I'll try to get a pic and show you guys.

But overall, I'm happy with the money I spent on the Hayames. I think they are everything this much money can buy for a set of full coilovers.

 
Rep Power: 304

That road pull you mention is really bad here on a few roads where people have created little dents in the places their tires have run over and over the years. I notice that the road bites hard even wiht stock suspension when i put on my super stickie tires for going to the track.

 
Rep Power: 0

I tried that and I cant even go 1" of pre-load.

Anyway, the wiggle didnt go away after the shop re-installed it. Drilled the hole bigger to fit the OEM 19mm back. I tried installing it too, the wiggle on the top part of the strut is still there.

Since the alignment shop is complaining about the wiggle, I'll ask them to re-install it. If the wiggle is gone, I'll pay them. If they cant get rid of the wiggle, I wont pay them

See, the wiggle doesnt even bother me since it only wiggles when you hold it on the positions I have outlined.

front passenger side: 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock
front driver side: 11 o'clock and 5 o'clock