halflife

iTrader: (1)

Just got mine too, searched around and can not find the right link to adjust them correctly.

Anyone know a link for the properway to adjust height and the rebound.

518

The problem we are having right now is the tie-rod not fitting on the Hayame. Did you have the same problem? Its best to address the original problem on this thread. We will much appreciate it.

I know theres are a couple of threads that can address your concerns, just do a little search while reading the contents.

SlammedBlueEM2

iTrader: (2)

I talked to Noah of SPW and he said that another distributor of his installed the new Hayame's on his car and had to drill holes for the front. Apparently, Hayame was too lazy to drill the hole big enough because Noah didn't seem to find it an issue. His distributor noted that he had no problems with the new rears and they work fine, so maybe the height issue is just me or something else?

Still, I will be seeing what the deal is with my friend's ride who has Hayame's on his rear and is slammed. Hopefully some time this week if I don't get answers from Noah, but he said he will be calling me back today about it after talking with that distributor.

518

So the deal is drilling holes to make it bigger, tsk tsk tsk. No wonder this only cost $650. There goes the saying...you get what you paid for.

thanks for the update SlammedBlueEM2

Here, I searched for you so you dont have to. It even has the title, "How to Adjust Hayames"
http://7thgencivic.com/forums/showth...ghlight=HAYAME

SlammedBlueEM2

iTrader: (2)

I called Noah back just to share some more info on the installation thing. He said that the holes were intentionally made smaller to save time because of their huge backorder, so it's somewhat of a compromise. At this point I had no issues drilling the hole.

A 3/8 inch drill bit was used to widen the hole. The hole is originally supposed to be 5/8 of an inch on the original Hayame V1/stock front struts.

518

Thanks for another quick update SlammedBlueEM2. I'll have all the notes for the installation when I bring my car this saturday.

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

Good work, slammedblue. I'm already rummaging for a 3/8" bit.

SlammedBlueEM2

iTrader: (2)

I've got another update for you guys.

My friend came over with his slammed rear Hayame set-up. We checked out his ride and to make a long story short his rear suspension was missing a good amount of vital parts. His strut was pushed up into the upper mount and you could see this from the trunk. At first I was thinking "if that's how I could get my car lower" ... but! His car was bouncy - not Ground Control on stock shocks bouncy, but like stiff springs and no shocks bouncy and his ride quality is suffering. All in all, we discovered his problem but not mine.

Noah mentioned that he couldn't get in contact with the distributor today, so it will be tomorrow. Right now, my alignment is pretty ****ed after the install... to the point where I can't go over 30MPH. Bah... my patience is running thin.

BumpinCivic2k1

Man this is really terrible...it's almost as if the Hayame's have gotten WORSE this time around.

518

I actually thought this would be better than shock plus springs combo of some kind. I cant wait 'til Saturday to know how it feels when the install goes bad...

matrix311

shouldnt that be a metric size instead of american standard? will that be the correct fit or and will there be some play in there with that size? It's kinda got me wondering if that will work or not.

Did you drill yours out 3/8 and do you have them installed with that hole drilled out?

-Eric

SlammedBlueEM2

iTrader: (2)

Note. The drill bit I used was actually 3/4 - NOT 3/8.

I have them installed. There was no need to drill through the entire hole, just so long as the bolt went down through that hole.

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

SlammedBlue, I'm very grateful for every little update on this - I'm having my Hayame 2.0's installed in a week, so I'm planning what extra materials I need. I'm not too concerned with drilling out the hole as the material looks like it can handle having a bit of material removed. I just don't wanna hear little clicking noises from the tie rod end moving within the hole. As well, I wanna make sure that they actually ride well. How's your issue with the rears?

518

thank you very much for another update. Like what matrix311 asked, is that metric or american standard?

dacivic

iTrader: (22)

Yea is there a clicking sound in the front? The v1 has that problem (after grease+tighten 3rd nut, I still have little clicking)

How is the ride compare to the v1? Same or diff?

SlammedBlueEM2

iTrader: (2)

TeLLy: Still have the same issues with the rear

518: I'll have to ask the guy who bought the drill bit. I will PM him again.

dacivic: Since my alignment is really off I can't tell since I can't go over 30MPH. If I were to guess I think the ride feels a bit more comfortable but it's still too early for me to really know.

518

thanks again. I think it may also be wise for me to measure the old strut to take measurements.

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

If you do, please post up measurements.

halflife

iTrader: (1)

U the man

518

I received my Gloss Black FF7, I cant wait to put it on along with the Hayames.

4 more days...

matrix311

FYI - guys with V2.0 coilovers of the Hayames. Dont worry about doing any drilling or trying to drill and install them into your car, it's a very good chance you'll damage your tie rod, the section under the boot, due to an untapered hole. I just got off the phone with SPW (american hayame distrib) and they told me they are aware of the problem. What they did was they drilled the hole upside down. So if you put the tie rod in from the bottom it will fit just fine. They have a list of the people who have v2.0 Hayames and will be sending out replacement arms within 3 weeks free of charge with the properly drilled hole the correct direction. Basically just unscrew the existing arm and replace it with the new. No more modification will be needed. The hole will be drilled proplery with the correct pitch/taper in the hole. So i would wait to do the install untill you recieve the new arm, otherwise you may be spending an extra $120 for 2 new tie rod ends. Thats the info i got, figured i would pass it along.

3rd times a charm, hopefully they nail it this time.

-Eric

flotsamm

iTrader: (1)

Upside down? WTF.. LOL

Make me wonder if someone even tested these before they shipped!

matrix311

well they were absolutely right about upside down. I just stuck my tie rod in the opposite direction and it went ALL the way through and i could thread it on all the way and even get the codder pin in

Guess that answers the question.

w00t

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

Is there a problem with installing it upside down though? I can wait but I kinda wanted to get these things on asap until then.

Mex

iTrader: (5)

lol.. there would definitely be a problem. you can't drive a car with an upside-down strut, because it's impossible to put on a strut upside-down. it would be like attaching someone's arm with their hand as the elbow-- ok maybe I can think of a better comparison.

flotsamm

iTrader: (1)

I think he meant installing the tie rod upside down into the steering arm.

If you install it upside down, the overall length of the tie rod arms will be different. I'm assuming that it'll be longer and throw off your toe setting. Not exactly sure how safe it would be to drive like this but I wouldnt risk it.

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

grrr......spoke to hayame, they were pretty nice about the whole deal. They're shipping the stuff out as soon as they can confirm it fits.

TeLLy

iTrader: (23)

ps yes i did mean installing the tie rod upside down, lol.

BumpinCivic2k1

****ing incredible.

matrix311

I hope the stuff fits this time. Atleast their sending out a whole new arm instead of having to send back these struts and wait for new. I didn't feel like ripping the rears off just to send back and put different ones. But i think these will be a nice system once all the flaws are taken care of.