Speck

iTrader: (1)

Need some help here. I have my D2 installed and just got back from getting an alignment done.... omg... it was WAY off too Caster was a pain in the *** to get right. But they got it.

BUT... there is a problem, apparently one of the bolts on the top camber plate driver side was put in wrong (prob by the shop that installed it, even though they shouldn't have messed with them) and when trying to back it out, it broke in half, so now it is held with 3 bolts instead of 4.... well, actually 4 but one of them is only half a bolt.... anyways, Driving out of the garage onto the main road, my alignments goes to **** again. First it was pulled hard left, now it is pulling hard right.

Has ANYONE had this issue? What doesn't make sense to me is that I marked the position of the top bolts before I left, and after I took it around the block for a test (was fine and straight then), and when I got home, they have not moved a MM...wtf? Is there some other adjustment areas that they did not know about that should have been tightened? I can feel the suspension shift when I get on it. Sometimes I can drive straight with the wheel straight and then 10 secs later I have to fight the car to keep from going right slightly.

HELP!!!!

-=speck=-

Speck

iTrader: (1)

Seems that it has been corrected, I will find out when I get it re-aligned tonight. Seems that the guys who aligned it did not know what they were doing, they did all of the camber/caster adjustment from the top instead of using the lower bolts to adjust the gross camber.

-=speck=-

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

You can't caster adjust. Set the camber plate to approximately where you want it. Probably about 3 lines in from the outside if you want less than -.75 camber front. Mine is set at 6 lines out (on my JICs) and I am running -1.75 camber front. then use the crash bolt to adjust for minor modifications. When they fix the toe the caster will adjust with it.