Rep Power: 308

30,000 miles (gesh)

Need to bleed the brake fluid, amoung other things.
Altogether Honda Wants $409 for the 30,000 mile service

Can anyone Link me to a Nice DIY on Changing the Brake fluid.

if not

Can someone please type up, (pictures are nice) a Step By Step


**Request for Moderators**
please move this to Tech Topic if no one responds in this forum!?

Thanks

 
Rep Power: 0

you need 2 people to do this to make it easy. one pump the brake whiel the other guy adjusting the nut with a wrench.

 
Rep Power: 0

1. jack yo car up
2. take off the wheels
3. make it easier, turn the wheel all the way so you can adjust the nut on the brake
4. loosen the valve nut, it's messy, so use a towel.
5. press the brake all the way
6. the brake fluid squirts out. tighten the valve nut.
7. keep pumping the brake till you can't pump anymore.
8. the other side, same step 3-7.
9. do I have to tell you put your wheels back on before you lower the jack and so on?

 
Rep Power: 0

don't forget, drive around the block and see if they work. if they don't......you got airbag and seatbelt on, right?

 
Rep Power: 0

Brake fluid change for our cars should be every 3 years regardless of mileage ... if you want to follow our manual, that is.

 
Rep Power: 305

1. Do not spill brake fluid on the car, it may damage th paint; if brake fluid does come contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water.

2. The reservoir on the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper level) mark at the start of the bleeding procedure adn checked after bleeding each brake caliper. Add new (previously unsealed DOT 3) fluid.

3. Do not resuse the drained fluid.

4. Make sure no foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the fluid.

5. Slide a piece of clear plastic hose over the first bleed screw. (1-front left, 2-front right, 3-rear right, 4 rear left). It may be helpful to remove each tire first. Use jack stands. Submerge the other end of the plastic hose into a container of clean, new brake fluid.

6. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.

7. Loosen the bleed screw to allow air to escape. Check the fluid level of the reservoir, pump the brakes a few times., then hold the pedal down and screw back in the bleeder screw.

*torque on the screw is 7 lbs on the front, 5 on the rear. Spray penetrating oil on the bleeders the night before.

* use a flare nut wrench to prevent deforming the nut

* I recommend ATE Super Blue. It has superior resistance to moister and has a high heat rating. Plus it is blue, so you will know when you have bled each line.

* if you run out of fluid in the reservoir, you must start all over again.

 
Rep Power: 305

P.S. the fluid should last at least two years before replacement is necessary.

 
Rep Power: 0

there's a sequence you need to follow...
start from driver side front, cross to passanger side rear, next to driver side rear, finally passanger side front.

 
Rep Power: 305

Uhh, the sequence I quoted was from the OEM service manual. The point is to bleed the closest line first, the longest last.

 
Rep Power: 310

Wow thats an odd sequence, usually its the furthest wheel first then the closest for most cars.. Honda must have some factory reason. Anyway, to bleed your brakes by yourself buy this kit.

When I had to replace my brake master cylinder in my truck, I bought one of these and it worked great. Less room for error over the two person system IMHO. I got it for about 40 bucks, and it paid for itself in one usage. FWIW..

 
Rep Power: 308

Thanks Everyone ! All this is pretty darn usefull.
I'm going to wait at least another year, before i do this, the dealer is just giving me the run around about how often it needs to be done.

I'll try to take pictures and make a DIY when I do it.

 
Rep Power: 0

i believe the motive pressure bleeder is better than the mityvac.

pressure bleeding is better than vacuum bleeding or pedal pumping.

i got the motive for $50 after shipping. it works great.

 
Rep Power: 0

thats sir, is the correct way to do it. general rule of thumb is you start with the bleeder vavle thats closet to the master cyclinder and work your way out

 
Rep Power: 0

double post. my bad

 
Rep Power: 0

You can get a "bleed it yourself" kit at Napa for $10. It's some tubing, and a little bottle with a magnet on it. You stick the bottle inside your wheel well and hook it up to the bleeder valve.

Cheap and easy. I highly recommend it.

 
Rep Power: 0

hey rickinthescv, jsut curious, in step 5 why would you submerge the plastic tube in NEW brake fluid? is there a reason for this?

 
Rep Power: 0

I wen't and got some speed bleeders at www.speedbleeder.com the sizes you would need are SB1010 for the fron and SB8125l for the rear.
The speed bleeder has a check valve so it becomes a one man job with NO chance of air getting back into the brake systems. I also got the the bad and hose that cost an extra $6.00.

 
Rep Power: 0

what did you mean by "the bad and hose", the hose is just 1/4inch tubing right? also, did you have to put the other end of the hose in fluid?

 
Rep Power: 0

You put the tube in new brake fluid to prevent air from getting back into the brake lines. It is a precautionary measure just in case you don’t tighten the bleeder screw fast enough. And why I say get speed bleeders! I hope this helps.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok cool, thanks for the info.

edit* what size flare wrench do i need for the bleeder nut? thanks