Rep Power: 0

Okay guys, I'm new here and I have searched for about 15 mintues for a thread involving my problem but can't find anything, so here's my situation... I just bought a 2002 EX Coupe about a week ago and it's giving me issues while braking. It feels as if the rotors are warped so I went and bought pads and rotors and when I pulled the tires off, the pads look brand new and my rotors look okay besides a little rust where the pads don't touch. If I drive through town and get stopped by a few red lights, once I try to take off I have to rev higher because one of the brakes are sticking. If I get on the interstate I get a terrible death wobble to where it shakes the whole car and you can smell the brakes like I did a 60 foot stop from 100 mph lol. Please help....

 
Rep Power: 517

Which one? A dragging brake is gonna get HOT.

After driving long enough to get the brakes to drag, get out and feel all 4 wheels. Which one(s) are hottest? Any significantly hotter than the rest?

Both front brakes should be about the same temps, and both rears should be about the same temps.
Fronts will be hotter than the rears though.

 
Rep Power: 0

Check the caliper pins there are letters on the head of the bolts G and L should be installed on the corresponding letters of the caliper. Even if only one site is with reverced pins you'll have the above symptoms.

 
Rep Power: 0

The passenger side front is the one that's getting hot and putting off the smell.

 
Rep Power: 0

I will definitely look into this, thank you.

 
Rep Power: 517

Make sure the rubber hose didn't get twisted like a pigs tail last time the caliper was off. If it is then flip the caliper back over to untwist the hose, bolt it back together and test drive, recheck if it still drags that brake.


Assuming that was not it.....Check this while the brake is stuck on:
Open the bleeder and see if the brake releases.

If opening the bleeder does not let it release then it's a mechanical problem like stuck piston or stuck slide pins or stuck pads

----

If opening the bleeder made it release, then more checking may be needed to figure out where the hydraulic problem lies.

 
Rep Power: 511

Just to touch on the warped rotor feel...

I didn't see it mentioned, possibly because I'm kinda lazy and didn't read the entire thread, but did you check the runout of the rotors (or have a shop do so)? I think the max spec of rotor runout is something like .005". I don't think I'd be able to tell if there was a .005" fluctuation (much less a .01" fluctuation) in the rotor simply by a visual inspection.

Just a thought.

 
Rep Power: 0

Most probably you have stuck caliper piston. Grind both pads a little (about 1mm) on a flat surface using sand paper. This will push the piston out
and could help
Assuming nothing else was damaged from overheating. If not you have to replace the caliper. Don't buy rebuild
Buy new or get used from the junk yard.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well, it's been a while since I've been able to get to the point to where I could reply but I'm still having problems. I'm also having engine problems (200,000 miles and I don't know the history, burns oil like no other, currently using about a quart a day.) So, come January she'll be getting a motor with about 35-45,000 miles and new clutch and I'm fixing the common transmission bearing also. So, while she's gutted, I'm going to do new calipers, rotors, and pads. Thank you to everyone who put there help forwards and I hope you guys enjoyed your Thanksgiving!