Rep Power: 0

I recently changed out the front rotors (aate premiumone slotted rotors with akebono pads) due vibration while braking (Around 40 mph to 50mph)

Last weekend I changed the front Bearings (Timken (KOYO))
And OEM Honda Ball Joints.

I suspect that the right hub is bent or the right rotor is bad from the factory.

Please take a look at this video and let me know if you have any thoughts

 
Rep Power: 195

Did you clean off the hub before you put the new rotors on? Even a little bit of rust can make it wobble.

 
Rep Power: 518

Rust buildup on the hub face?
The hub needs to be perfectly flat and true. (If the hub is clean, this can be measured with a dial indicator.)

Anything caught between the hub and rotor?

Cheapo rotors. Some actually need re-machined right out of the box.
Factory says to use an on-car lathe for resurfacing (mandatory when under warranty), this gives the truest results.




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You don't have the lugnuts on in the video. Are there any screws holding the rotor to the hub? If there is nothing clamping them together, it could have all the runout you show in the video.....and it's false.

That car would shake like a dog pooping broken glass if it really had so much runout we can see it in the video.

 
Rep Power: 0

I don't know about the rust in the hub I will have to open up and check. The rotors are brand new and they are not cheapo (I think) how can you bent the hub? its pretty strong
I had the rotors screwed into the hub with the 2 screws (Brand new ones)
Even when the rim is mounted and torqued it shows the that rim appears to wobble like as if its bent ( I mounted the spare doughnut as well and it shows like its wobbling).

Its shaking the caliper as well as you see in the last part of the video.


I hope this is an easy one but Im afraid of the hub being bent because I just installed new Bearings and it would suck to open it and damage the new bearings.

 
Rep Power: 518

Pull everything off down to a bare hub. Start the engine and let the hub spin, see if it also is not spinning true and flat. You should have your answer then.

I can't really picture a bearing causing a hub to wobble.......yet

Yeah it's hard to damage a hub, but I've seen ______ people do some truly amazing things.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ive done this before when I had the hub only and its hard to tell just by looking at it. I will make a video next time when I open it. I will try to open everything either tomorrow or Thursday. Im also planning to swap the passenger side rotor with this one(Driver side to see if there is an wobbling from both). Im still open to suggestions before I go ahead an take it apart

 
Rep Power: 518

This is where a dial indicator would be handy, you can measure runout of the hub face if it is smooth and not covered in rust.

 
Rep Power: 518

A thought (look out!)

Assuming the shoulders of the wheel studs won't cause the lug nuts to bottom out before the wheel gets tight:

Take everything off the hub, then bolt a wheel to the bare hub and let it spin.
If it wobbles, try the spare again see if it spins wobbly too.

If both wheels still wobble, assume that hub ain't spinning straight for whatever reason.

Wheel just makes it easier to see it.

The wheels ARE straight, right? They spin straight on another corner of the car?

 
Rep Power: 0

Update

I'm hearing a clunking noise from the driver side wheel at very low speed specially when turning left. Also the Vibration at high speed when braking goes away if I brake hard.

 
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Haven t had a chance to work on this however Im going to open everything up this Saturday. If the hub is bent does replacing it damage the bearing?
Is there a way to take it out without damaging the bearing?
I will try to inspect with a dial gauge first Im really hope thats not the case

 
Rep Power: 518

I price the job with both parts. I don't even try to save bearings like that.

 
Rep Power: 0

I think you can still save the bearings you just need to get that race out of the hub and put it back in the bearings.

See this

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3042916

 
Rep Power: 518

Getting a bearing split open is one thing. The issue at hand is different.


When he needs to swap the hub, this is what he will have once the hub is pressed out.....
How is he going to get the bearing race off of the old hub without any damage to the race?




When I replace a bearing, I grind a slot in the race and whack it with a chisel to crack it.
It takes a lot of work to try to use a puller to save an old race.
A new bearing is cheaper than my time and sanity. Every time.

 
Rep Power: 291

I suspect the actual axle and/or CV joint.
Have you inspected them?

 
Rep Power: 0

I opened everything up again and spent $30 on Dial Indicator from Harbor Fright and 4 hours.

Ok so both wheels (Rotors or Hubs) doing the same thing (Wobbling) I tried to inspect them with the dial indicator however Im not sure about the numbers though.

The left side reads from 0 to 10 and sometimes from 0 to -3 to + 20. The most consistent reading was 0 -3 to +8.

The right side(Passenger) reads from 0 to - 4 to +18


actual axles that's a smart guess. Both doesn't look good
The left one has what it looks like a bent shaft. I can see its not true. The right one is obviously bent it has hit the curb hard before (the original owner told me that he hit the curb than the stop sign). Can axles make the wheel shake like that? Do I have bent everything now(Hubs and Axles) ?

I have some videos and pictures I posted check them out.

 
Rep Power: 518

WTF are you measuring in? Inches? Millimeters? Miles? Cubits? Rods?

Disagree. I don't think so.

Very likely it has bent hub(s).

That hub does not appear to be clean, you may be measuring all the high spots of dirt and rust that way..
The dial indicator is not anchored solidly to the knuckle, that leaves a lot of room for errors.
Someone else ideally should be rotating the opposite tire to make the measured side spin, this eliminates human interference. The act of putting hand pressure one way or another can cause undue flexing and add to measurement errors.


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Rep Power: 0

Sorry that picture is taken when I installed the old rotors. Trust me I swapped new and old rotors like 5 times and cleaned the hub with wd40 and a wire brush. Same measurement. This is the first time for me to use the dial so I don't I did a good job at it.

The reason why I think its the cv axles is when I looked at them they seem to be bent I was actually going to post this here but I sow Kennykid2002's comment before me.
I looked up bent axle in YouTube and this guy have the same issue



Auto zone have rebuild ones and I might give it a try

 
Rep Power: 518

Dude, that looks like a straight axle in the rear of a truck (Grand Cherokee, actually). Not the same animal as front wheel drive CV axles.

The center axle shaft section of a front wheel drive CV axle could be bent into a pretzel --- or completely missing--- and it wouldn't affect hub runout.
The stub of the outer CV cup that goes through the bearing and hub is the only part that matters as far as keeping the bearing and hub clamped.

I think it needs a hub. Or two. And the bearings that go with the job.

 
Rep Power: 367

hub not completely pressed in the bearings?

 
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The hub is pressed in all the way. I compared it to the old one when I had everything open. All the videos on youtube about bent axle shows the same wobbling I have. I really dont want to buy new hubs and bearings and repeat the whole job again if it comes to that I guess Im getting rid of the car. So far I spent allot of money on it

I got me some axles from auto zone today and will try to install them tomorrow to see if it wobbles again if that didn't fix the issue Im returning the new axles and selling the dam car. I have almost changed the whole suspension so far except for the axles and the hubs
Will never buy a car that's been in an accident before for sure.

 
Rep Power: 0

Update

So I took everything out again today.

Removed the axle passinger side and tested the hub with the rotor and its shaking (Dial wired reading again)
Removed the rotor same thing (Dial also shows that 0 to -0.0003 to + 0.0008 or 0.0010)

Put everything back and went to a local shop. They said you have bent axles and hubs and its better to change everything at the same time. Went to Autozone and they said they will replace the bearings if I bring the old ones back even in peaces

 
Rep Power: 0

OK So now I'm down to a couple of options

replacing the whole Spindle(s) (From Junk Yards) than either changing out the bearings on them of keep if there good and still have to change out Ball Joints

Buying only new hubs(Dorman) and replacing only the hubs and Bearings on my old Knuckles

I do know that I have a bent knuckle on the driver side and I used a camber kit to correct + camber before

What would you do if it was you?
Note I might still need to replace the axles if they cause vibration in the end

 
Rep Power: 518

IMO you ought to use this opportunity to solve that issue while convenient....it should be aligned anyway after doing bearings and stuff since the knuckles come off. (Note, strut and LCA could have been tweaked in the impact too.)


If you get 2 good original knuckles complete, from the JY, run them as is?

 
Rep Power: 0

The opportunity is there when opening everything again and having a JY knuckles at hands however
Can I pull the (OEM New)ball joints out of the my old knuckles and install them on the used ones from JY?

Also it all depends on how good the bearings are in the used ones. I knocking the hubs instead of pressing them can cause damage?

 
Rep Power: 518

IDK.... Can you remove a ball joint without damaging it? I really have never even considered doing anything like this. I don't think I'd want to chance it on a customers car (liability factor).
I can't really answer that, I guess it would depend on how you do it...

One person here will use a hammer, vise, and suitable round tool to hammer out the hubs, then use a press to assemble.

I use a press all the way. Less work IMO.

 
Rep Power: 0

The guy at the shop used a Snap On Cordless Impact Wrench ( CT6850) with the harbor fright bearing adapters to press out and press in the bearings
Hammered out the hubs and he pressed one of the them using the HF tool and hammered the other hub in. What wired is that why now I feel the vibration and notice the wobbling and why i didn't feel it before or notice it?

 
Rep Power: 518

Could be.

 
Rep Power: 0

So its been real hard to find something in a good shape at the junk yard. Its scarey most of these cards are wrecked from front and not sure if those knuckles are already bent as well or not. Now I'm thinking to just buy new hubs and install them without changing my (bent)knuckles as they aline fine after using a camber kit although Im not sure whats the down side of that.

 
Rep Power: 0

I think I got lucky today my 2 front knuckles arrived! I bought them from ebay
Car was a donor and it had 47539Miles only. The knuckles looks real clean and almost new but you never know till you install them and see how it is

The only thing I wished though that the ball joint boot looks little dry cracked but not leaking. I was wondering If I can change the boots out or replace them with new ones. Or maybe just leave as is and deal with them in the future

 
Rep Power: 518

You can buy just a boot for the ball joint from Honda.

I see 51225-S5A-003, a whopping $3.96 retail price (USD)