help me with me D17A2
Re: help me with me D17A2
lol 
i meant are you saying that getting the upgraded torque converter is a better route than doing a manual swap? does the upgrade help that much? (I think I am going to start saving for a manual swap for my auto btw
)
i meant are you saying that getting the upgraded torque converter is a better route than doing a manual swap? does the upgrade help that much? (I think I am going to start saving for a manual swap for my auto btw
) 
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Re: help me with me D17A2
^^ if you are a decent driver you could be capable of hitting 16s. there was already a debate over a COMPLETELY STOCK em2 hitting 15.9.... either he was a godly driver, the track timer was off or he had a golden motor. he had proof w/ video and everything and timeslip though. so i could even be possible to hit 15s. very unlikely though.
Re: help me with me D17A2
i wasnt saying it was a better than a manual swap because well its not, the manual will be the best. I was saying since he doesnt want a manual swap a higher stall torque converter will make him faster. basically it makes the engine wait till a higher rpm to make the transmission engage. basically if the car would go 65 at 3000 rpm before it would then take like 2700 rpm to make the car go that fast in the same gear, assuming the stall point was raised 300 rpm. This is not dead on correct or anything but is the most general way to explain it the way i understand it. thats why many companies say there is an increase in mpg with their torque converters. its not always a huge increase( .5-1 sec) in 1/4 mile but it can help quite a bit in automatic cars from what i have read.
Last edited by civic-driver; May 13, 2008 at 03:06 PM.
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no offense or anything man.....you drive a G** damn civic.... why on earth do u want to decrease it to 17.5? new genius world record?
seriously...whY? ur wasting ur money...invest that 400 in something useful... like a retrofit.
seriously...whY? ur wasting ur money...invest that 400 in something useful... like a retrofit.
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remember that red dx civic with a manual trans, a bunch of mods, and a ton of weight reduction? he ran mid 15s at the track. was a long time ago tho and alot of people didnt believe him even with slips and vids.
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Re: help me with me D17A2
I swer I can get the 17.5 , the first is put moffler pipe 2.5 , because I have one 3.5 , and is to much for this car , then pur a d16y8 manifold , camshaft stage 1 , fuel 109 octane , cold air inatke , you dont belive I can get the 17.5? where now I do 18.1
Re: help me with me D17A2
i dont think the 109 fuel will help you at all no need for it. The 3.5 piping is huge for a NA car even for most turbo cars that is too much and could be making you lose alot . I would suggest 2.25 " piping over 2.5" . get a cold air intake and the new piping before you worry about the troubles of a d16y8 manifold. After the piping and intake then look into a stage one cam if you feel the need to spend the money.
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i dont think the 109 fuel will help you at all no need for it. The 3.5 piping is huge for a NA car even for most turbo cars that is too much and could be making you lose alot . I would suggest 2.25 " piping over 2.5" . get a cold air intake and the new piping before you worry about the troubles of a d16y8 manifold. After the piping and intake then look into a stage one cam if you feel the need to spend the money.
the piping less me power, where I can find one piping cheap 2.5 , 2.5 ?? thanks , give me some link
Re: help me with me D17A2
^^ if you are a decent driver you could be capable of hitting 16s. there was already a debate over a COMPLETELY STOCK em2 hitting 15.9.... either he was a godly driver, the track timer was off or he had a golden motor. he had proof w/ video and everything and timeslip though. so i could even be possible to hit 15s. very unlikely though.
ooo interesting... link please
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how I can get weght reduction?? and other thing is , about the manifold D16y8 in D17a2 , somebody can tell me somthing about that?? some link for see or somthing , thanks friends
Re: help me with me D17A2
civic-driver Re: help me with me D17A2
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i wasnt saying it was a better than a manual swap because well its not, the manual will be the best. I was saying since he doesnt want a manual swap a higher stall torque converter will make him faster. basically it makes the engine wait till a higher rpm to make the transmission engage. basically if the car would go 65 at 3000 rpm before it would then take like 2700 rpm to make the car go that fast in the same gear, assuming the stall point was raised 300 rpm. This is not dead on correct or anything but is the most general way to explain it the way i understand it. thats why many companies say there is an increase in mpg with their torque converters. its not always a huge increase( .5-1 sec) in 1/4 mile but it can help quite a bit in automatic cars from what i have read.
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i wasnt saying it was a better than a manual swap because well its not, the manual will be the best. I was saying since he doesnt want a manual swap a higher stall torque converter will make him faster. basically it makes the engine wait till a higher rpm to make the transmission engage. basically if the car would go 65 at 3000 rpm before it would then take like 2700 rpm to make the car go that fast in the same gear, assuming the stall point was raised 300 rpm. This is not dead on correct or anything but is the most general way to explain it the way i understand it. thats why many companies say there is an increase in mpg with their torque converters. its not always a huge increase( .5-1 sec) in 1/4 mile but it can help quite a bit in automatic cars from what i have read.
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what time do you car in 1/4 mile? thanks
Re: help me with me D17A2
from what i have heard the JMO is the top of the line but i believe its 600-700 dollars. i will hopefully getting the IPT one this summer if i decide to spend the money.
as far as an exhaust goes i read your first post and you have 2" piping which should be ok. do you still have the stock catalytic conveter on or a test pipe or a high flow cat?
as for weight reduction you can remove your jack, spare tire, passenger seat, rear seats the easiest and all can be put back in fairly easily.if you want to get a bit more involved you can remove interior panels, door panels, carpet. if you get absolutely desperate you can remove your air conditioning, you front and rear bumpers ( the real ones under all the plastic but without them a crash at your high 90 MPH trap speeds could kill the car and possible), all the plastic liners under the front of the car and inside the fenders. its all about finding parts that arent needed to get you down the track and i dont condone removing safety equipment like the bumpers but i know it can be done.
Also i would agree with gearbox ( i think he said it) that a pair of 15" lightweight rims something around 10lbs a piece (without tires) for at least the front rims will help along with light weight lug nuts.
as far as an exhaust goes i read your first post and you have 2" piping which should be ok. do you still have the stock catalytic conveter on or a test pipe or a high flow cat?
as for weight reduction you can remove your jack, spare tire, passenger seat, rear seats the easiest and all can be put back in fairly easily.if you want to get a bit more involved you can remove interior panels, door panels, carpet. if you get absolutely desperate you can remove your air conditioning, you front and rear bumpers ( the real ones under all the plastic but without them a crash at your high 90 MPH trap speeds could kill the car and possible), all the plastic liners under the front of the car and inside the fenders. its all about finding parts that arent needed to get you down the track and i dont condone removing safety equipment like the bumpers but i know it can be done.
Also i would agree with gearbox ( i think he said it) that a pair of 15" lightweight rims something around 10lbs a piece (without tires) for at least the front rims will help along with light weight lug nuts.
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OH! almost forgot to add the obvious... when at the track deflate your tires to around 20ish psi. since the tire is flatter there is a bigger contact patch on the ground so your tires have a better chance to grip. also when you are at full throttle the tires tend to stretch while under hard acceleration. they stretch out and tend to get bigger which decreases the tire contact patch to the floor which gives you less grip. dont know if this would be that important in your automatic 95 whp d17 but every little bit helps.
and yeah. weight reduction is basically tearing everything out of your car that it doesnt need to make your car run down the track. since the car is lighter it will make the engine work more freely. just like you trying to pull 500lbs on the ground vs pulling 100 lbs. simple.
and yeah. weight reduction is basically tearing everything out of your car that it doesnt need to make your car run down the track. since the car is lighter it will make the engine work more freely. just like you trying to pull 500lbs on the ground vs pulling 100 lbs. simple.
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get lighter racing seats and forged wheels. i think that guy had ssr around 11lbs. but good budget rim is konig helium at 11.5lbs each. there are alot of things you can do to save weight, just go around the car and see. and some stuff is better left stock. my rsr exhaust weighs over 30 lbs and the stock weighs maybe 10 lbs. can keep washer fluid and gas low, that saves some more, get cf hood, racing battery, etc
Re: help me with me D17A2
angel alberto Re: help me with me D17A2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matteo
very good info thanks a lot. I am going to look into this and let you guys know if I decide to get this on my car. There were previous links for the converters but does anyone know of a good reliable brand for our civics?? or is it just more a universal thing
what time do you car in 1/4 mile? thanks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matteo
very good info thanks a lot. I am going to look into this and let you guys know if I decide to get this on my car. There were previous links for the converters but does anyone know of a good reliable brand for our civics?? or is it just more a universal thing
what time do you car in 1/4 mile? thanks
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from what i have heard the JMO is the top of the line but i believe its 600-700 dollars. i will hopefully getting the IPT one this summer if i decide to spend the money.
as far as an exhaust goes i read your first post and you have 2" piping which should be ok. do you still have the stock catalytic conveter on or a test pipe or a high flow cat?
as for weight reduction you can remove your jack, spare tire, passenger seat, rear seats the easiest and all can be put back in fairly easily.if you want to get a bit more involved you can remove interior panels, door panels, carpet. if you get absolutely desperate you can remove your air conditioning, you front and rear bumpers ( the real ones under all the plastic but without them a crash at your high 90 MPH trap speeds could kill the car and possible), all the plastic liners under the front of the car and inside the fenders. its all about finding parts that arent needed to get you down the track and i dont condone removing safety equipment like the bumpers but i know it can be done.
Also i would agree with gearbox ( i think he said it) that a pair of 15" lightweight rims something around 10lbs a piece (without tires) for at least the front rims will help along with light weight lug nuts.
as far as an exhaust goes i read your first post and you have 2" piping which should be ok. do you still have the stock catalytic conveter on or a test pipe or a high flow cat?
as for weight reduction you can remove your jack, spare tire, passenger seat, rear seats the easiest and all can be put back in fairly easily.if you want to get a bit more involved you can remove interior panels, door panels, carpet. if you get absolutely desperate you can remove your air conditioning, you front and rear bumpers ( the real ones under all the plastic but without them a crash at your high 90 MPH trap speeds could kill the car and possible), all the plastic liners under the front of the car and inside the fenders. its all about finding parts that arent needed to get you down the track and i dont condone removing safety equipment like the bumpers but i know it can be done.
Also i would agree with gearbox ( i think he said it) that a pair of 15" lightweight rims something around 10lbs a piece (without tires) for at least the front rims will help along with light weight lug nuts.
thanks men for you help , I dont have the catalitic stock , I put high flow , the problem is the muffler pipe is to big 3.5 , I need change for other 2.5 I think is better
and I take 4 rims 14" mitsubichi lancer for going the saturday for know is I can low me time , I wil remove the passanger seat , for get less weight , and fuel 109 octane , 4 month ago I have rims 15 MUGEN RNR , her the photo ,
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a..._328209841.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/HPIM1988.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/S5030973.jpg
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OH! almost forgot to add the obvious... when at the track deflate your tires to around 20ish psi. since the tire is flatter there is a bigger contact patch on the ground so your tires have a better chance to grip. also when you are at full throttle the tires tend to stretch while under hard acceleration. they stretch out and tend to get bigger which decreases the tire contact patch to the floor which gives you less grip. dont know if this would be that important in your automatic 95 whp d17 but every little bit helps.
and yeah. weight reduction is basically tearing everything out of your car that it doesnt need to make your car run down the track. since the car is lighter it will make the engine work more freely. just like you trying to pull 500lbs on the ground vs pulling 100 lbs. simple.
and yeah. weight reduction is basically tearing everything out of your car that it doesnt need to make your car run down the track. since the car is lighter it will make the engine work more freely. just like you trying to pull 500lbs on the ground vs pulling 100 lbs. simple.
mi car stock give 95 WHP , but know have 105WHP ,if I buy the stage 1 crowe can get 114WHP
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the stock exhaust is by far the lighest ive held, its basically cheap, thin, aluminum with some baffles. i could hold the muffler with one finger no problem. the rsr i had to carry with both hands!
