fuledya

Boilmaker1, for some reason all your pics are red "x".
Is anyone else having problems?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Yeah. I know. The site moved and they dissapeared. Eventually when I get a while to relink everything I will.

shroomster

well? heh

jeffsta17

iTrader: (9)

arent you supposed to also take out like .030 mm in order to meet D.O.T. Specs? so instead of it being 201 mm it would be 200.070 mm or whatever

And out of my experience Ive found it a heck of a lot easier just to do one side at a time so you can compare and see how it all goes back together.

Just my thoughts but very good DIY

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

You need to check your units there.
0.030 mm is about 1/1000 of an inch. So either you mean .030" which is about 1/32 of an inch or a little less than 1mm, or you've got a garage with a built in metrology lab.
Either way, the replacement spec is 201mm. If you want to do it before that, then do it. But if there's 1/32" left before the min, you don't have long to go before you hit it, so I think for all intents and purposes, 201mm +/- common sense is an acceptable minimum.

R1Style

iTrader: (20)

Good DIY... i took shop class in highschool and doing drums was a bitch.
The hardest part was putting the springs back on... you can use a screw driver to put it back on but they make specific tools to do it now which makes it 1000x easier.

+1 rep for you.

EDIT: I can't rep you anymore till I spread more rep

edicivic2k1

iTrader: (5)

yea, repped you. good diy. damn good diy <<

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

ok, I just did my rear brakes today and all I can say is *** that ****. I will never do my rear brakes again. I started at about 9 this morning and just finished about an hour ago. the hardsest part was getting everything re installed. the manaul was no help because it says to reassemble everything and then install it onto the backing plate. yea that doesnt work for ****. it took me a better part of 5 hours figuring out how to get the first side done. you cant reasemble everything at once then install it because the adjuster piece doesnt fit between the hub and wheel cylinder. I ended up putting the assembly together, removing the wheel cylinder which I replaced anyway, and putting it onto the backing plate, adjusted the shoes all the way out, then installed the wheel cylinder. after that, the other side took about an hour. this is the first time doing rear brakes, but its a bitch. especially getting the upper return spring in.

Next time I will be taking it to a shop. there are certain things I wont touch, and rear brakes is one of them. Unless I learn an easier way of doing it. Also I have brake tools, but none worked with these tiny *** brakes.

edicivic2k1

iTrader: (5)

Yea I hear you. hehe, they arent too much fun. but me, I swear, if i can do it i wont take it to a shop. For some reason I always think I will do a better job. Great opinion stglower... its so true.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

what iritates the hell out of me is how some of these guys can do this job in about 30 minutes. I dont see how. But then again, I guess if you have been doing it for 20 years, it is easy.

CincyBlck2k1

I am getting ready to do mine... I bought the parts from a local auto parts store like a year ago... cause I figured they needed replaced... well, after I changed the front back then, I checked the back, and they were fine... so, I didn't replace them... but the ones I bought didn't come with a replacement u-clip... and the only way I see to get one is to buy the shoes from the dealership?? Is this right?? Is it possible to change them and re-use that U-clip if you are careful?? I have learned since then that most parts are easier to buy from hondapartsdeals.com just so you get more of the little things like that...

Thanks in Advance

Brad

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

you can purchase the u clips from honda. If I remember correctly, the new shoes only came with new shoe retainer clips and retainer pins, or however you call them. usually shops do reuse the u-clips, but I also think that most shops have replacement ones in the back incase they break the old ones. I tried getting them off of the old shoes and was unsuccessful. once they are on there, they are hard to get off. I would just buy new ones just in case.

stock

Will removing the rear hub first make it easier to replace the shoes?

edicivic2k1

iTrader: (5)

i dont think so. you dont want a hub flopping around, you will need it attached to the car so that you dont have to worry about suspending it, or other, while reconnecting brake parts. just clean everything up real good, and jack the car up enough, and use blocks for safety, and you will be good to work.

.02

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

YES. taking the hub off would make life easier because you'd be able to slip the shoe assembly with the self adjuster installed back on, rather than installing it around the hub. If you have the ability to pop the hub plate off and get it back on straight, then it would make life easier. Just be mindful of the wheel bearings

stock

Just checked my rear brakes and they're still good. What do you guys use to clean the brake dust off?

My Honda dealership is recomending that they "Service front and rear brakes". What is there to service since the front pads/discs and rear shoes/drum are good?

Are they trying to charge me money just to clean the brake dust off?

boxcarracer

iTrader: (13)

Great Diy Just What I Needed. I Frucked Them Up And Needed A Diy Savedme Like 10 Min<33


"STEALERSHIP...." ANSWER.....YES SIR THEY ARE

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Use a vaccum cleaner or other suction device that captures the dust. DO NOT blow it away with compressed air. You don't want the dust airborne, its quite harmful to your lungs despite it being asbestos free.

highwayman

here's a link to an easier way to put the shoes/springs/clevis back on.

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...chback_brakes/

putting them back on only took me 25 minutes per side with this method on my '93 civic.

reddawnman

Jesus Fscking christ, this is a PITA.

I'm done with one wheel, going to bed and will do the second tomorrow.

FYI, for those of you doing wheel cylinders too, to get the 2nd screw that holds the cylinder located (conveniently) right in front of the shock tower where you have no working clearance, you need to loosen the 4 14mm bolts holding the wheel backing plate. Use wd-40. The **** broke a 14mm wrench from harbor freight when i forgot the wd-40. Cheap chinese crap, yes, but i want all to learn from my mistakes :-)

As far as the springs go, I did it by hooking the long top spring up FIRST. I then opened the bleeder screw on my wheel cylinder and pushed the pistons in, letting excess fluid drip out to a container. Installed the shoes on either side, with the adjusting rod broken into two parts... the first part i had hooked into the parking brake / bitch-to-get-off U-clop shoe when I installed it. The "short" part that goes with the self adjuster I installed after getting everything "hanging" in place. The next to last thing I did was to spring up the self-adjuster and get that in place. Last was the short bottom clip on the shoe.

I also did my valve clearance today, but one of the bolts broke off into the head when i was putting the valve cover back on (friggin wrench was set at 6lbs, spec is 7.2, CRACK!). Nobody stocks the part, so screw it for a couple weeks. Anybody have that happen to them before? I'm assuming I need to get an ez-out from sears or something and drill the center of the stuck part out so I can loosen it.

ancientpimp

Thank you, thank you, for all the info here lord, i was gonna ask how to bleed the brakes cuz i just changed the !gnikcuF shoes (my next car would all be disc brakes dangit!) and my brakes are spongy but that link also answered my question,lol.

linas58

So when you go to pound the old drum off doesn't it get hung up on the brake shoes? Don't you need to release the self adjuster so that the drum slides over and off of the brake shoes? I'm thinking that as the shoes wear a trough into the drum and wont slide off. Is that a problem?

aliefjoker

iTrader: (1)

^Depending on your drums, sometimes you can just grab them and twist them side to side and they'll pop off. If you have to bang them, hit on the outer part of the drum in between two studs about 2-4 times and rotate to the next pair of studs. There's no getting hanged on the shoes. Disassembly is easy, reassembly is the PITA

Matt300

Damn...spent about 3 hours on this. I'm seriously gonna consider just taking it in next time. But my '05 is at 47k, so I'm thinking the next time it gets done I'm just opting for the disc conversion.

Thanks for the DIY though - clear enough that a newbie like me was able to give it a go!

timmygregory

Are these instructions the same for a 2001 Civic EX Automatic?
thanks
Tim

naughton

These clips hold the shoes in place. With the needle nose pilers and a screwdriver, depress the spring and turn the pin that holds the shoes in place. There's one per shoe.
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naughton
asciisol

stuartdenley

wheels are probably the hardest part of your car. Break dust is a mixture of carbon fibres, metal filings and adhesive residues I suggest you to use low dust break pads and fit dust shields these sit between the rim and the hub.
__________________________________________________ _____

Compra pc portatili Gender Reassignment Surgery

schreibers

Great tutorial for a first timer like myself.

I'll be honest it took me three hours to do this today. 2.5 for one and thirty minutes for the other. What a freaking pain in the *** getting that top spring on/off. Unfortunately on the first one I did I punctured a small hole in the boot of the cyclinder while getting that top spring off so I think I need a new cylinder as well as to bleed my brakes.

Thanks again for the DIY!

seeley

Nice tutoiral. I just did mine yesterday. I'm a bit sore today in the fingers. The top springs and clip holding the ebrake lever can be tough.
On the ground, I first assembled both shoes with e-brake lever, adjuster lever, clevis adjuster rod, and top spring and then put that onto the hub. Then added the adustment spring and bottom spring. First time I ever did drums. I know I need to bleed at least one side because I hit the piston and it came out too far and boot popped off and leaked a bit. But hey, first time for everything. I also used the Honda Repair manual which was a big help. I was suprised to notice that all four brake shoes are identical.
OP: I don't know if anyone noticed, but one of your photos shows the ebrake lever on backwards.

pheaton

iTrader: (6)

I did it. . I can see how once you've done it once you can do it quickly the 2nd time. The first side is going to be a learning experience, but the other side is smooth. .

Those clips can be a pain and the top spring is a pain, but other than that. . It's not bad.

Definately bleed the system, especially if you pop the piston out like I did repeatedely on the 1st side.

All in all it was a PITA, but not the worst thing to do. . They were definately due for changing, but they weren't as bad as I thought for having 105k on the car and never changed.

Since I'm a glutton for punishment, I'm doing the timing belt next weekend!