brake upgrade
I need TP for my bunghole
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Originally Posted by wildstylegraff1
i have a 01 lx what kind of rotors/pads should i get i was thinking brembo but, not sure help someone
if your goona upgrade just get the slotted rotor.
big brake kits as well as crossed drilled don't do much unless you use the car for track racing.
i've got brembro blanks and axxis/pbr ultimates and the braking is incredible. Eventually i'm going to do a rear disk conversion. After that, i'm done with my brakes. Thats enough braking power for me!
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I have Power Slot slotted rotors on my fronts. There is no noticeable difference. The only time I will notice any difference is when I am autocrossin and the brakes start heating up. The slotted rotors will help shed heat and reduce brake fade. Within the next year or so, I will be doing a complete big brake upgrade. The only way to decrease your stopping distance is to increase the size of your rotors and get 4 or 6 pot calipers.
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Rep Power: 0 Pads alone will have NO effect on stopping distance. Also, slotted or cross-drilled rotors that are the same diameter as your stock rotors will have no effect on stopping distance. You have to increase your rotor size and upgrade to 4 or 6 pot calipers.
If you don't believe me do the research on the Internet.
If you don't believe me do the research on the Internet.
Originally Posted by Shlomo
your saying good pads will not decrease stopping distance????
Originally Posted by Quick Silver
Pads alone will have NO effect on stopping distance. Also, slotted or cross-drilled rotors that are the same diameter as your stock rotors will have no effect on stopping distance. You have to increase your rotor size and upgrade to 4 or 6 pot calipers.
If you don't believe me do the research on the Internet.
If you don't believe me do the research on the Internet.
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From: So Cal
Rep Power: 0 These items can help, but you are not going to get an noticeable (i.e., 10 or more feet shorter stopping distance). If you really want to increase your stopping distance:
1. Upgrade to slotted / cross-drilled rotors.
2. Upgrade to high performance pads.
3. Upgrade to steel braided brake lines.
4. Upgrade to DOT 4 brake fluid.
5. Upgrade to high performance tires.
6. Lighten up your load.
These upgrades (and the resultant performance gains) are based on factual information, not just word of mouth.
1. Upgrade to slotted / cross-drilled rotors.
2. Upgrade to high performance pads.
3. Upgrade to steel braided brake lines.
4. Upgrade to DOT 4 brake fluid.
5. Upgrade to high performance tires.
6. Lighten up your load.
These upgrades (and the resultant performance gains) are based on factual information, not just word of mouth.
Originally Posted by Shlomo
so good pads and tires do nothing for stopping power...give me a break man.
Autocross Junky
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If you want shorter stopping distances, get better tires. If you want to be able to use the brakes harder Longer, then change pads, and brake fluid and make shure you have a Blank Vented Rotor.
Dirilled rotors should be avoided in High performance/Track applications (unless you like Replacing rotors alot). Slotted rotors may be usefull as they help reduce the chances of glazing your pads, but they do Not Decreas stoping distances, Nor do they help cool the rotor... (Brakes work by converting Kenitc Engergy in to heat. And if you remove mass from the rotor, You increase the Opperating temps of that rotor.... Meaning Slotted rotors = less metal = More heat.)
If you want shorter stopping distances, get better tires. If you want to be able to use the brakes harder Longer, then change pads, and brake fluid and make shure you have a Blank Vented Rotor.
Dirilled rotors should be avoided in High performance/Track applications (unless you like Replacing rotors alot). Slotted rotors may be usefull as they help reduce the chances of glazing your pads, but they do Not Decreas stoping distances, Nor do they help cool the rotor... (Brakes work by converting Kenitc Engergy in to heat. And if you remove mass from the rotor, You increase the Opperating temps of that rotor.... Meaning Slotted rotors = less metal = More heat.)
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From: So Cal
Rep Power: 0 Agree with what you are saying with the exception of slotted rotors not decreasing heat and helping brake fade. I think you should read this article, along with others posted on the Internet as your understanding is completely wrong.
http://www.powerslot.com/platm.html
http://www.powerslot.com/platm.html
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
http://www.teamscr.com/grmbrakes.htm
If you want shorter stopping distances, get better tires. If you want to be able to use the brakes harder Longer, then change pads, and brake fluid and make shure you have a Blank Vented Rotor.
Dirilled rotors should be avoided in High performance/Track applications (unless you like Replacing rotors alot). Slotted rotors may be usefull as they help reduce the chances of glazing your pads, but they do Not Decreas stoping distances, Nor do they help cool the rotor... (Brakes work by converting Kenitc Engergy in to heat. And if you remove mass from the rotor, You increase the Opperating temps of that rotor.... Meaning Slotted rotors = less metal = More heat.)
If you want shorter stopping distances, get better tires. If you want to be able to use the brakes harder Longer, then change pads, and brake fluid and make shure you have a Blank Vented Rotor.
Dirilled rotors should be avoided in High performance/Track applications (unless you like Replacing rotors alot). Slotted rotors may be usefull as they help reduce the chances of glazing your pads, but they do Not Decreas stoping distances, Nor do they help cool the rotor... (Brakes work by converting Kenitc Engergy in to heat. And if you remove mass from the rotor, You increase the Opperating temps of that rotor.... Meaning Slotted rotors = less metal = More heat.)
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
If you want shorter stopping distances, get better tires. If you want to be able to use the brakes harder Longer, then change pads, and brake fluid and make shure you have a Blank Vented Rotor.
Well put.
Originally Posted by Quick Silver
Agree with what you are saying with the exception of slotted rotors not decreasing heat and helping brake fade. I think you should read this article, along with others posted on the Internet as your understanding is completely wrong.
http://www.powerslot.com/platm.html
http://www.powerslot.com/platm.html
Your talking to theMAN!And I posted this before I realized you were linking to an ad.
Last edited by pon55; Feb 5, 2005 at 07:39 PM.
According to the brake spec person i know, its all in the pad compound!
One pad can not do all so there are many comprises(sp) in each you buy.
Stock is worst,so ya gotta go up from there!
One pad can not do all so there are many comprises(sp) in each you buy.
Stock is worst,so ya gotta go up from there!
Autocross Junky
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Rep Power: 380 ^^ Changing Compounds can make a difference, and can make the brakes Feel like they stop the car faster... But The pads arnt whats stopping the car. The tires are.
What changing pads does is alter the brakes Torque Curve, Which in turn alters how much brake presure is needed to get the same amount of torque to the tires (As stock or other pads). The total amount of Torque the tires can apply to the ground hasn't changed, just how much pedal travel you use in order to reach that Terminal Point.
The other thing chaging pads does is alter the Opperating and Terminal Fade temp of the brakes.
Quick Silver; Are you going to listen to the marketing dept of a Brake Rotor Mfg, or to people who constitantly Push brake systems to the limit?
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.html
What changing pads does is alter the brakes Torque Curve, Which in turn alters how much brake presure is needed to get the same amount of torque to the tires (As stock or other pads). The total amount of Torque the tires can apply to the ground hasn't changed, just how much pedal travel you use in order to reach that Terminal Point.
The other thing chaging pads does is alter the Opperating and Terminal Fade temp of the brakes.
Quick Silver; Are you going to listen to the marketing dept of a Brake Rotor Mfg, or to people who constitantly Push brake systems to the limit?
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.html
Slotting
Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the ‘glazing’ often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)
Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the ‘glazing’ often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)
Last edited by Zzyzx; Feb 5, 2005 at 07:54 PM.
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From: So Cal
Rep Power: 0 I am not simply relying on what manufacturers say. Of course they are going to try to hype their products to help sales. I posted a link to that website as one reference. Would you like me to post more? Let's not turn this into a pissing conference. Opinions are going to vary. I respect what you have said. Let's just agree to disagree on this one. 
To show you there are no hard feelings, I gave ya a positive rep for your contribution to this thread.
To show you there are no hard feelings, I gave ya a positive rep for your contribution to this thread.
Originally Posted by Zzyzx
^^ Changing Compounds can make a difference, and can make the brakes Feel like they stop the car faster... But The pads arnt whats stopping the car. The tires are.
What changing pads does is alter the brakes Torque Curve, Which in turn alters how much brake presure is needed to get the same amount of torque to the tires (As stock or other pads). The total amount of Torque the tires can apply to the ground hasn't changed, just how much pedal travel you use in order to reach that Terminal Point.
The other thing chaging pads does is alter the Opperating and Terminal Fade temp of the brakes.
Quick Silver; Are you going to listen to the marketing dept of a Brake Rotor Mfg, or to people who constitantly Push brake systems to the limit?
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.html
What changing pads does is alter the brakes Torque Curve, Which in turn alters how much brake presure is needed to get the same amount of torque to the tires (As stock or other pads). The total amount of Torque the tires can apply to the ground hasn't changed, just how much pedal travel you use in order to reach that Terminal Point.
The other thing chaging pads does is alter the Opperating and Terminal Fade temp of the brakes.
Quick Silver; Are you going to listen to the marketing dept of a Brake Rotor Mfg, or to people who constitantly Push brake systems to the limit?
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.html
Last edited by quick silver; Feb 5, 2005 at 08:01 PM.
Why is my vagina bleeding?
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Rep Power: 304 Are stock rotors the best rotor to use with hawk brake pads?
What brake fluid do you reccomend? Does this fluid need to be changed more often than stock brake fluid?
What brake fluid do you reccomend? Does this fluid need to be changed more often than stock brake fluid?
Autocross Junky
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Rep Power: 380 Stock will do fine, though you may want to find a better quality rotor, such as Brembo.
For fluid... you really should have your fluid flushed about every other year... More often if you run track days. I recomend ATE Super Blue or ATE Type 200 (its the same fluid just two different colors to allow you to easier see when you've flushed one out) its the Stock Fluid used in BMW's, it has a High Dry and Wet boiling point, and it doesnt absorb water all that fast. should run between $10 and $15 a Liter. (you'll need a little less then 1L, but get 2 just in case.)
For fluid... you really should have your fluid flushed about every other year... More often if you run track days. I recomend ATE Super Blue or ATE Type 200 (its the same fluid just two different colors to allow you to easier see when you've flushed one out) its the Stock Fluid used in BMW's, it has a High Dry and Wet boiling point, and it doesnt absorb water all that fast. should run between $10 and $15 a Liter. (you'll need a little less then 1L, but get 2 just in case.)
Registered!!
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Rep Power: 0 Only Zzyzx knows what he is talking about. Most people are just repeating common brake myths. Ultimately, your tires is what provide adhersion to the road - whether braking or accelerating. A good brake system will be able to fully utilize the capabilities of tires.
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