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Thump... Thuuuump, Thump, THUMP, thuuuuump (brakes?) lol..

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Old Jun 22, 2004
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Thump... Thuuuump, Thump, THUMP, thuuuuump (brakes?) lol..

so yea... I think my brakes or rotors are ****ed up?

Whenever i try to stop my car like tries to stop but, feels like im braking, letting off, braking, letting off, braking, letting off, while im really just braking...

Someone said my rotors are warped? Well, if thats the case, what should i get?

I have 30k miles, and i changed my brakes around 15k
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Old Jun 22, 2004
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Just get the Rotors machined/turned. that should take care of the problem
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Old Jun 22, 2004
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Did you change your brake fluid yet? If you didn't you should.
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Old Jun 22, 2004
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zzyzx is right it sounds like the rotors are warped from excessive hard braking
bring them to a mechanic and have them (cut the rotors) they might say its too bad to do it but if you know how to change them you can get new rotors for a good price but never go with the cheapest ones you find they will be ****... my dads a mechanic trust me cus autozone apparently has some for like 30 bucks and they will warp crack do drugs... all the bad stuff
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Old Jun 23, 2004
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get some brembo blanks
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Old Jun 23, 2004
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cross drilled brembos with some bendix pads.. cant beat it
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Old Jun 26, 2004
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Originally Posted by streetglower
get some brembo blanks

dont we all wish we can afford them....
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Old Jun 26, 2004
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Blanks run about $40 each, so they are not that bad.

For any High performance applications I highly recomend avoiding Drilled rotors. This is coming from every thing I've read or been told about High performance braking. And to back that up, heres a quote from this months Sports Car magazine (The official magizine of the SCCA)

In the days of asbestos pads, says Dong, there was a gas boundary layer that appeared at the interface area of hte pad and rotor. Although that gas boundary still occurs, it is much less of a problem with modern friction materials. Slots are more then adequate to carry that gass away.

Years ago, that gas boundary , allong with reducing weight, led to the popularity of drilled rotors. However, in the intervening period, the myth has persisted that cooling is the main reason for drilling rotors. Any one that tells you thad drilling makes the disc run cooler, says Dong, "is smoking crack." Although there is a belief among some that drilling can have a slight effect on cooling by drawing addinional air in to the vanes, even those that subscribe to that theory say drilled rotors are more of a liability than a benifit.

"Drilled holdes tend to be stress risers and they tend to be a stress concentrator," says Ruiz. "therfore a driled rotor will tend to have a shorter life then an undrilled rotor. The contribution a drilled rotor makde to the system, reducing gas and debris, can be accomplished with a slot." Not only will rotor life be shorter, but also an on-track failure is likely to be more catastophic than with a non-drilled disc.

Last edited by Zzyzx; Jun 26, 2004 at 08:50 AM.
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Old Jun 26, 2004
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Dont forget , just cause someone CAN machine them dont mean that you will fix the problem in the long run. Typically if there is enough material so that the rotor can be machined and not go below its machine to thickness you will take care of the imediate problem of the pulsation. But what happens is you remove MASS from the rotor by machining it this in turn will make it MUCH easier for the rotor to get runout, or become unparrallell(sp) in other words WARP. Many times you are better off to just replace the rotors and not pay to have them machined Also make sure that if you do the work yourself to clean and lubricate the caliper slides. This is the best product that ive found for lubricating the caliper slides "DOW CORNING® 111 VALVE LUBRICANT & SEALANT" here is a picture of the product

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