DIY: disc pad made simple
04-10-2004
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DIY: disc pad made simple This is an easy step by step DIY to brake pads.
*~*CAUTION: while working with brakes i reccomend you wear a respiratory mask and protective glasses as well as gloves.
here are step by step instructions:
1) set the parking/Emergency Brake and then set shifter to P (auto trans) or in gear (manual trans).
2) place wheel chocks snug against the BACK of the rear tires
3) LOOSEN front wheel's lug nuts. DO NOT remove lugs.
4) Jack up car using a proper jack point. consult manual.
5) open up the brake fluid resivoir
6) use a c-clamp to break free the pad facing you, away from the caliper and into the pad holder. EX. place the part of the clamp that spins against the brake pad, and the stationary opposite end of the c- clamp against the back of the caliper. make sure u do not pinch the brake line hose. also stop clamping when u see the pad separate from the caliper. not much clamping force is needed.
7) remove C-clamp
8) if you look at the back of the caliper there are 4 screws. the inner 2 screwes are bigger and they hold the caliper to the hub. the outer screws are smaller and they hold the 2 large pieces of the caliper together. you want to remove the very bottom small screw.
9) swing caliper upward and tie to strut spring, being careful as to not pinching the break line hose. CAUTION: caliper may swing down and cause injury so tie it securly.
10) remove pads on each side of the rotor. if it is difficult take your time, do not insert screw driver or metal object to pry the pads out.
11) *~*spray entire caliper with brake cleaner (do not get on painted surface ie. body, painted brake calipers or aftermarket coilovers, springs, or struts) DO NOT USE an airhose to clean the brakes!
12) wipe dry with cloth or paper towel
13) Now it is time to compress the piston. (1)place old brake pad against the piston(2)affix C-Clamp's stationary end to the back of the caliper (same place as step 6 and observe the same cautions).... (3) begin compressing the piston by turning the handle on the C-Clamp !SLOWLY! (4) once the C-Clamp can nolonger go any further remove C-Clamp. (5) make sure the rubber piston boot is not sticking out past the piston. if its sticking out CAREFULLY! use a CLEAN flat head screwdriver to push in the rubber boot, so that it is not sticking out.
14)if necessary, apply metal shims to back of new brake pads. or you can clean off your factory shims and use thoes as well.
15) apply anti- squeak compound to metal shim on the back of the pad, that comes into contact with the caliper and not the rotor.
16) insert new pads, accordingly, into the brake caliper holder.
17) carefully undue the tied caliper to the spring and lower it to the original position over the pads.
18) insert the screw back into the original hole (recall step 8)
19) do a visual inspection to the brake components.
20) continue to other side of car and follow steps to change the other pads.
21) when completed changing both front brake's pads, do a tool check making sure no tools are left behind and there is nothing left underneath the car, that will cause damage when lowered.
22) attatch wheels and lug nuts. (you will not be able to torque lug nuts while car is raised just tighten them for now)
23) close the brake resivoir.
24) lower down the car, torque the lug nuts, and most importantly remove the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels!
certain people will have to bleed their brakes. consult the manual to see if u need to bleed them. i do not know how to do this therefore i will have to take my car to a shop.
hope this helps and if i need to correct or modify anything let me know
*~*CAUTION: while working with brakes i reccomend you wear a respiratory mask and protective glasses as well as gloves.
here are step by step instructions:
1) set the parking/Emergency Brake and then set shifter to P (auto trans) or in gear (manual trans).
2) place wheel chocks snug against the BACK of the rear tires
3) LOOSEN front wheel's lug nuts. DO NOT remove lugs.
4) Jack up car using a proper jack point. consult manual.
5) open up the brake fluid resivoir
6) use a c-clamp to break free the pad facing you, away from the caliper and into the pad holder. EX. place the part of the clamp that spins against the brake pad, and the stationary opposite end of the c- clamp against the back of the caliper. make sure u do not pinch the brake line hose. also stop clamping when u see the pad separate from the caliper. not much clamping force is needed.
7) remove C-clamp
8) if you look at the back of the caliper there are 4 screws. the inner 2 screwes are bigger and they hold the caliper to the hub. the outer screws are smaller and they hold the 2 large pieces of the caliper together. you want to remove the very bottom small screw.
9) swing caliper upward and tie to strut spring, being careful as to not pinching the break line hose. CAUTION: caliper may swing down and cause injury so tie it securly.
10) remove pads on each side of the rotor. if it is difficult take your time, do not insert screw driver or metal object to pry the pads out.
11) *~*spray entire caliper with brake cleaner (do not get on painted surface ie. body, painted brake calipers or aftermarket coilovers, springs, or struts) DO NOT USE an airhose to clean the brakes!
12) wipe dry with cloth or paper towel
13) Now it is time to compress the piston. (1)place old brake pad against the piston(2)affix C-Clamp's stationary end to the back of the caliper (same place as step 6 and observe the same cautions).... (3) begin compressing the piston by turning the handle on the C-Clamp !SLOWLY! (4) once the C-Clamp can nolonger go any further remove C-Clamp. (5) make sure the rubber piston boot is not sticking out past the piston. if its sticking out CAREFULLY! use a CLEAN flat head screwdriver to push in the rubber boot, so that it is not sticking out.
14)if necessary, apply metal shims to back of new brake pads. or you can clean off your factory shims and use thoes as well.
15) apply anti- squeak compound to metal shim on the back of the pad, that comes into contact with the caliper and not the rotor.
16) insert new pads, accordingly, into the brake caliper holder.
17) carefully undue the tied caliper to the spring and lower it to the original position over the pads.
18) insert the screw back into the original hole (recall step 8)
19) do a visual inspection to the brake components.
20) continue to other side of car and follow steps to change the other pads.
21) when completed changing both front brake's pads, do a tool check making sure no tools are left behind and there is nothing left underneath the car, that will cause damage when lowered.
22) attatch wheels and lug nuts. (you will not be able to torque lug nuts while car is raised just tighten them for now)
23) close the brake resivoir.
24) lower down the car, torque the lug nuts, and most importantly remove the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels!
certain people will have to bleed their brakes. consult the manual to see if u need to bleed them. i do not know how to do this therefore i will have to take my car to a shop.
hope this helps and if i need to correct or modify anything let me know
04-10-2004
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Rep Power: 277 i used Friction Master Ceramic brake pads. they were $36.99 at advanced autoparts. the part number is #CMX465
when i put the pads on they were too thick for the caliper to fit over. im guessing by .5mm. so i took off the metal shims and in about a month or two, the pads should be worn to the point where i can put the metal shims back on.
the brake pad anti squeal compound can be bought at any auto parts store. it is usually located near the front and its about the same size as a condom wraper. theyre .99 cents and you only need one.
when i put the pads on they were too thick for the caliper to fit over. im guessing by .5mm. so i took off the metal shims and in about a month or two, the pads should be worn to the point where i can put the metal shims back on.
the brake pad anti squeal compound can be bought at any auto parts store. it is usually located near the front and its about the same size as a condom wraper. theyre .99 cents and you only need one.
Last edited by bluericeburna2k2; 04-10-2004 at 05:35 PM.
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