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I have a 2008 Honda Civic LX sedan with automatic transmission. I'm no expert but I try to watch youtube videos and read forums to learn how to fix things on my own if possible. I apologize in advance if I mistake anything in my explanation.

My car recently started blowing warmer (not super hot but not cold enough to cool the cabin) air from the air conditioning vents. When my AC is on, my 2 fans (ac fan and radiator fan) are both blowing, and the compressor clutch is spinning. What type of interval is the compressor clutch supposed to have for spinning/not spinning? I checked the 12 volt A/C clutch relay and the compressor relay 7.5 fuse and switched them out. No change. I thought I was maybe low on refrigerant so I added some A/C Pro to the low valve with AC on max and all windows open. Compressor clutch was continuous and the the gauge showed 40 and I read a chart that said at 85 degrees (which was the temperature) it should be 45-55psi. I shook the can and pressed the trigger and it jumped to about 42psi but then the needle on the gauge kept spiking to around 60 psi. The compressor clutch was clicking on and off and made me nervous ha. The compressor clutch would click on and off about 8 times, then continuous spin for 15 seconds, then start doing this again, clicking on and off every 2 seconds, then stay on for 15 seconds. Maybe I have too much refrigerant? Is there an ambient temp/psi chart for 2008 Honda Civics? The gauge shows about 42 but then it spikes to 60.

I left my car sitting off for about 10 mins then started it, blasted the AC, and put the refrigerant back on the low valve and without pressing the trigger, it stayed around 42. The clutch wasn't clicking on and off anymore. When I turn my car off, I can hear a hissing under the hood from the area where the compressor is located.

Things I have noticed: The ac seems to work decently (car gets cold and I'm not sweating) when it's cooler outside. If it's 85 or higher, then I fight the AC. I took my car out at 11am and it was fine, but then around 2pm the AC would go from cool to warmer. It never gets super hot, but it's no where near cold enough to cool the passengers in the car. I think I've noticed it working better (getting slightly colder) when I'm pressing the gas. When I'm at stop signs and stop lights it seems to get warmer than when I was accelerating. However, sometimes it seems colder when I'm just coasting, and warmer when I'm driving up hills. These might not be completely accurate, but I'm doing my best to note everything I notice.

Additionally, probably 5 times in the last 2 weeks, my car has made a hissing spurt noise in the cabin, that seems to be coming from the passenger side. It freaks me out so I turn off my air conditioning. I think it happens when I accelerate going up steep hills. When my car is stopped in idle at a stop sign or stop light, I can hear my compressor clicking on and off, probably every 3 seconds. It seems like it's turning on and off a lot, is this normal? When I drive with the AC on, I can sometimes feel something engage that gives my car more pep, then takes it away.

If the temperature stays below 85 and I don't drive aggressively, the AC seems to be working ok. Anything higher than 85 degrees and I'm lucky if it stays cold. I know it won't be cold in the 90s. There doesn't seem to be a difference in temperature from each of the dashboard ac vents.

I have NOT taken anything apart yet, have NOT taken off the plastic shield covering the radiator and condenser. I looked at what I could, and I did see some shininess (must be liquid) on a red wire on the compressor. The wire is attached to the compressor, between the radiator fan and compressor. It is definitely moist on that red wire. Otherwise I saw no other leaks, yet.

Unfortunately I haven't had an expert check the pressures in the high and low because I was hoping to avoid paying someone to take a look.

Hopefully I didn't forget any details. I appreciate the help!

 
Rep Power: 518

These small systems are extremely sensitive to incorrect charge amount. Most require just under a pound of refrigerant. A couple ounces too much or too little kills cooling efficiency. That's why a pro charges a system by weight and uses two pressure gauges.


It sounds to me like you probably started with a system that was just a little bit low. Now it's seriously overcharged.
The 3 second interval should be the system high side hitting the high pressure cutout (well north of 400 psi!)
You cannot tell squat with only a low side gauge.




Hiss noise after shutoff is normal. Might last longer than 10 minutes too.

 
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Maybe I can take it some place where they can remove refrigerant. I was also going to try to clean the condenser.

Someone else mentioned: air gap from the clutch plate to the pulley. Think I should look at this?

 
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Excess gap will cause the clutch to quit engaging after it gets hot. You didnt describe that in your post.
But yea chexk it because that's another issue they develop as it wears.

 
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My ac blows warmer the hotter it is outside.

 
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I'll try to check the compressor clutch when the engine is really hot, and it's really hot outside.

 
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But the clutch does not lose its ability to engage. It engages repeatedly without fail every time the high pressure cutout shuts it off and back on

 
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Gotcha.

 
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So what did you find out was making it cycle off and on quickly? Mine is doing the same thing when it is really hot out and you really need the ac to work.