2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
07-12-2012
#31
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Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
You mean you can't undo the "dammit pins"?
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=49488
This one is easy, a small screwdriver pops them apart
They also use pins without the 2 slots. These pliers make short work of them
Or, a small hook tool can dig under the center part and lift it
Or just break off the stuck pins (I break them all the time), then use zip ties to reattach or buy more pins.
HTH
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=49488
This one is easy, a small screwdriver pops them apart
They also use pins without the 2 slots. These pliers make short work of them
Or, a small hook tool can dig under the center part and lift it
Or just break off the stuck pins (I break them all the time), then use zip ties to reattach or buy more pins.
HTH
07-12-2012
#32
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
I tried prying one out with a screwdriver and broke it.
a clutch relay repair
You mean a clutch field coil, not a relay.
I don't do numbers. I just fix the cars.
Wildass guesses (MSRP on parts)
Coil $95
Pulley and clutch set $250 (if necessary)
Plus even higher markup on parts at some places.
Labor, anyones guess.....$200-500? Varies greatly.
Plus freon as needed.
You need to call your shop and ask them.
07-13-2012
#33
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This is good input, thanks. Are there any, quality, aftermarket compressors? Denso, maybe?
07-13-2012
#34
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
There are a lot of possible places for problems to happen if you go your way, especially with aftermarket. I have been burned far too many times in the past in this same scenario (low quality remans), like now annual compressor replacements for leaking. I want it fixed for good when I am done. I can't afford to keep working on it over and over.
Your way: you get dirt, seals, oil and freon to deal with. Plus dealing with quality issues that you probably won't discover until next years heatwave.
My way: I don't disturb the internals of the system, no chance of errors in that area at all. The system WILL work as good as it did before it quit.
I glanced at the ChinaZone site last night and wasn't impressed with their choices for reman compressors at all. (JMHO as a pro that has to stand behind my work.)
However, now that I spent a minute to look at this:
If you insist on a complete compressor replacement,
Honda sells your GX compressor (with the clutch set) as a reman unit, quite a bit cheaper than new, and if you go through Majestic it should be comparable to your aftermarket unit in price:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...2FC+COMPRESSOR
(I'd trust factory remans quite a bit more than I do most other aftermarket reman stuff.)
Where do you have access to a vacuum pump? A professional shop? They may be able to get you a price break from a local dealer too.
HTH
07-13-2012
#35
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(I'd trust factory remans quite a bit more than I do most other aftermarket reman stuff.)
Where do you have access to a vacuum pump? A professional shop? They may be able to get you a price break from a local dealer too.
HTH
) Never do we use anything from China, and prefer factory parts for almost everything we do.I am still considering just changing the just the coil, as my friend won't be available to help at the shop until Saturday after next. I have a puller and access to some special tools. Does the shaft nut take a special tool?
07-13-2012
#37
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07-13-2012
#38
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
No, normal metric. A new nut (usually) comes in the factory kit, along with new snap rings and shims.
Clue is if the fans run when the AC is turned on, and a check of a wiring diagram to see why...
Sorta. On the 07, the thermal protector interrupts the AC request wire to the MICU, so if it was open circuit-- the PCM wouldn't get the request and therefore wouldn't even attempt to turn on the cond. fans when you push the AC button.
(Applies to almost all systems since 2002, IIRC. On a 2001 Civic, the thermal protector is in series with only the clutch, so only the clutch would be affected if it was open circuit. Fans would still run. All depends on how the system is wired.)
Off the top of my head, did not research this answer....
HTH
Sorta. On the 07, the thermal protector interrupts the AC request wire to the MICU, so if it was open circuit-- the PCM wouldn't get the request and therefore wouldn't even attempt to turn on the cond. fans when you push the AC button.
(Applies to almost all systems since 2002, IIRC. On a 2001 Civic, the thermal protector is in series with only the clutch, so only the clutch would be affected if it was open circuit. Fans would still run. All depends on how the system is wired.)
Off the top of my head, did not research this answer....
HTH
Last edited by ezone; 07-13-2012 at 05:41 PM.
07-14-2012
#40
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07-15-2012
#41
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Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage Jacked the car up and placed jack stands appropriately, removed the right front tire.
I used the method from the earlier post to remove the "buttons" to remove the plastic covers, and, yes, I accessed it from below and mostly thru the wheel well.
Large slip joint pliers (460 Channellock) to hold the clutch by the large rivets, while loosening the shaft nut. (I could've used the method described below to loosen)
I removed the 4 mounting bolts and re-positioned the pump by the generous use of tie wraps, in order to aim the shaft back, towards the opening in the wheel well.
My snap ring pliers are a convertible, internal and external type from Snap On with changeable tips. I would recommend an external set with a small angle (10 deg.) to remove/install the snap rings. The deepest ring, holding the coil, was hard to reach with mine.
I did not need a puller, although it would have been easier when removing the pulley. I was able to do it with lube, wiping of the snout, and repeated in and out motion. (no other tools used)
Removed the coil, bench tested it just to be sure, then unboxed the new one and found it to have 3.4 ohms (vs. infinite for the old one)
When tightening the shaft nut, I had the unit remounted, and I used a square shaft screwdriver, across the rivets, to hold the clutch pulley.
The whole job took me less than 1.5 hours, and was not an unpleasant experience.
I used the method from the earlier post to remove the "buttons" to remove the plastic covers, and, yes, I accessed it from below and mostly thru the wheel well.
Large slip joint pliers (460 Channellock) to hold the clutch by the large rivets, while loosening the shaft nut. (I could've used the method described below to loosen)
I removed the 4 mounting bolts and re-positioned the pump by the generous use of tie wraps, in order to aim the shaft back, towards the opening in the wheel well.
My snap ring pliers are a convertible, internal and external type from Snap On with changeable tips. I would recommend an external set with a small angle (10 deg.) to remove/install the snap rings. The deepest ring, holding the coil, was hard to reach with mine.
I did not need a puller, although it would have been easier when removing the pulley. I was able to do it with lube, wiping of the snout, and repeated in and out motion. (no other tools used)
Removed the coil, bench tested it just to be sure, then unboxed the new one and found it to have 3.4 ohms (vs. infinite for the old one)
When tightening the shaft nut, I had the unit remounted, and I used a square shaft screwdriver, across the rivets, to hold the clutch pulley.
The whole job took me less than 1.5 hours, and was not an unpleasant experience.
07-16-2012
#42
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I just read through this thread (along with others) because I'm trying to help a friend with her A/C issues. Thanks for all of the detail and explanations!
I did have a major question however as it pertains to my friend's system. She has a 2007 Civic Si, so it has the K20 motor. Does this information still hold true for the diagnostics and part replacement?
Also, her problem is intermittent and seems to happen more when it's hot outside.
I know that the freon level is correct, but I'm needing to get into some electrical testing, so this thread (and others) has been very helpful. Thanks again!
I did have a major question however as it pertains to my friend's system. She has a 2007 Civic Si, so it has the K20 motor. Does this information still hold true for the diagnostics and part replacement?
Also, her problem is intermittent and seems to happen more when it's hot outside.
I know that the freon level is correct, but I'm needing to get into some electrical testing, so this thread (and others) has been very helpful. Thanks again!
07-16-2012
#43
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Jacked the car up and placed jack stands appropriately, removed the right front tire.
I used the method from the earlier post to remove the "buttons" to remove the plastic covers, and, yes, I accessed it from below and mostly thru the wheel well.
Large slip joint pliers (460 Channellock) to hold the clutch by the large rivets, while loosening the shaft nut. (I could've used the method described below to loosen)
I removed the 4 mounting bolts and re-positioned the pump by the generous use of tie wraps, in order to aim the shaft back, towards the opening in the wheel well.
My snap ring pliers are a convertible, internal and external type from Snap On with changeable tips. I would recommend an external set with a small angle (10 deg.) to remove/install the snap rings. The deepest ring, holding the coil, was hard to reach with mine.
I did not need a puller, although it would have been easier when removing the pulley. I was able to do it with lube, wiping of the snout, and repeated in and out motion. (no other tools used)
Removed the coil, bench tested it just to be sure, then unboxed the new one and found it to have 3.4 ohms (vs. infinite for the old one)
When tightening the shaft nut, I had the unit remounted, and I used a square shaft screwdriver, across the rivets, to hold the clutch pulley.
The whole job took me less than 1.5 hours, and was not an unpleasant experience.
I used the method from the earlier post to remove the "buttons" to remove the plastic covers, and, yes, I accessed it from below and mostly thru the wheel well.
Large slip joint pliers (460 Channellock) to hold the clutch by the large rivets, while loosening the shaft nut. (I could've used the method described below to loosen)
I removed the 4 mounting bolts and re-positioned the pump by the generous use of tie wraps, in order to aim the shaft back, towards the opening in the wheel well.
My snap ring pliers are a convertible, internal and external type from Snap On with changeable tips. I would recommend an external set with a small angle (10 deg.) to remove/install the snap rings. The deepest ring, holding the coil, was hard to reach with mine.
I did not need a puller, although it would have been easier when removing the pulley. I was able to do it with lube, wiping of the snout, and repeated in and out motion. (no other tools used)
Removed the coil, bench tested it just to be sure, then unboxed the new one and found it to have 3.4 ohms (vs. infinite for the old one)
When tightening the shaft nut, I had the unit remounted, and I used a square shaft screwdriver, across the rivets, to hold the clutch pulley.
The whole job took me less than 1.5 hours, and was not an unpleasant experience.
One thing I'm not clear about is the serp belt. Do I take it off before starting this repair? Or does it slide off when you pull the pully off? Also how do I tension it when I get everything put back together? I've never taken a compressor off before so I'm wondering how I regain the tension in the belt. Is there a tensioner screw?
I'll also need to get some snap ring pliers. Thats a tool I do not have. I'll try to find one with longer arms.
BTW, where did you order your clutch coil from? I found it for $75 at http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/200...civic-lx-2.htm. Admittedly I havne't purchased form them before. Is there a better place?
EDIT: I just called my local dealer and they sell the coil for $94. So I'll just get it there.
07-16-2012
#44
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Sorry, I didn't include the "Remove belt" step. That was done first. (actually, 2nd, after raising the hood.)
I had to check the manual to loosen the belt. The tensioner is hydraulic, and moves slower than simple spring loaded types. 18mm box wrench with a cheater pipe moving up (ccw) to loosen.
The proceedure is for the Thread's motor (R18A1) and will also work on the GX (mine). I will not comment on the other motor, as I don't have one.
I would have used RightHondaParts.com, but had time constraints. I called 6 dealers and prices were from the low $94 to high of $139. I had called 4 of them before asking, "well then, which dealers in the area stock one?" that's when I found mine for $110 (less %15 for an on-line coupon) and the high price.
I had to check the manual to loosen the belt. The tensioner is hydraulic, and moves slower than simple spring loaded types. 18mm box wrench with a cheater pipe moving up (ccw) to loosen.
The proceedure is for the Thread's motor (R18A1) and will also work on the GX (mine). I will not comment on the other motor, as I don't have one.
I would have used RightHondaParts.com, but had time constraints. I called 6 dealers and prices were from the low $94 to high of $139. I had called 4 of them before asking, "well then, which dealers in the area stock one?" that's when I found mine for $110 (less %15 for an on-line coupon) and the high price.
Last edited by darkstarchuck; 07-16-2012 at 12:18 PM. Reason: added diagrams
07-16-2012
#45
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Sorry, I didn't include the "Remove belt" step. That was done first. (actually, 2nd, after raising the hood.)
I had to check the manual to loosen the belt. The tensioner is hydraulic, and moves slower than simple spring loaded types. 18mm box wrench with a cheater pipe moving up (ccw) to loosen.
The proceedure is for the Thread's motor (R18A1) and will also work on the GX (mine). I will not comment on the other motor, as I don't have one.
I would have used RightHondaParts.com, but had time constraints. I called 6 dealers and prices were from the low $94 to high of $139. I had called 4 of them before asking, "well then, which dealers in the area stock one?" that's when I found mine for $110 (less %15 for an on-line coupon) and the high price.
I had to check the manual to loosen the belt. The tensioner is hydraulic, and moves slower than simple spring loaded types. 18mm box wrench with a cheater pipe moving up (ccw) to loosen.
The proceedure is for the Thread's motor (R18A1) and will also work on the GX (mine). I will not comment on the other motor, as I don't have one.
I would have used RightHondaParts.com, but had time constraints. I called 6 dealers and prices were from the low $94 to high of $139. I had called 4 of them before asking, "well then, which dealers in the area stock one?" that's when I found mine for $110 (less %15 for an on-line coupon) and the high price.
07-16-2012
#46
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
I just read through this thread (along with others) because I'm trying to help a friend with her A/C issues. Thanks for all of the detail and explanations!
I did have a major question however as it pertains to my friend's system. She has a 2007 Civic Si, so it has the K20 motor. Does this information still hold true for the diagnostics and part replacement?
Also, her problem is intermittent and seems to happen more when it's hot outside.
I know that the freon level is correct, but I'm needing to get into some electrical testing, so this thread (and others) has been very helpful. Thanks again!
I did have a major question however as it pertains to my friend's system. She has a 2007 Civic Si, so it has the K20 motor. Does this information still hold true for the diagnostics and part replacement?
Also, her problem is intermittent and seems to happen more when it's hot outside.
I know that the freon level is correct, but I'm needing to get into some electrical testing, so this thread (and others) has been very helpful. Thanks again!
The main difference is the engine it is bolted to.
HTH
07-16-2012
#48
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
I use an air impact gun, no problems.
Hold the clutch hub still with bigazz channellocks, then turn the nut.
(Note: Pics are not of Hondas)
The nut is probably Nyloc locking type, so it will be tight all the way to the last couple threads.
Once you get the nut loose, be careful when you take the hub off. The shims can fall out and run for the darkest corners of the garage.
Then all the snap rings and parts
Since you are having issues with this part, and figuring out if and how the belt comes off at the start: If the job is beyond your abilities, call for professional help before you make it more expensive on yourself unnecessarily.
Hold the clutch hub still with bigazz channellocks, then turn the nut.
(Note: Pics are not of Hondas)
The nut is probably Nyloc locking type, so it will be tight all the way to the last couple threads.
Once you get the nut loose, be careful when you take the hub off. The shims can fall out and run for the darkest corners of the garage.
Then all the snap rings and parts
Since you are having issues with this part, and figuring out if and how the belt comes off at the start: If the job is beyond your abilities, call for professional help before you make it more expensive on yourself unnecessarily.
07-16-2012
#50
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
LOL, Looks like there is a band-aid already on a finger in this pic:
See the 4 bolt holes in the compressor body, in that pic?
Yours will be "SIMILAR".
Bust out a great flashlight, start peeping at it.
That's all I can do from here.
Once you find and remove all 4 bolts, the compressor needs to be lifted about a half inch then moved away from the engine, to get it off of its perches.
Now, you are on your own.
And remember:
See the 4 bolt holes in the compressor body, in that pic?
Yours will be "SIMILAR".
Bust out a great flashlight, start peeping at it.
That's all I can do from here.
Once you find and remove all 4 bolts, the compressor needs to be lifted about a half inch then moved away from the engine, to get it off of its perches.
Now, you are on your own.
And remember:
Since you are having issues with this part, and figuring out if and how the belt comes off at the start: If the job is beyond your abilities, call for professional help before you make it more expensive on yourself unnecessarily.
07-16-2012
#52
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Jacked the car up and placed jack stands appropriately, removed the right front tire.
I used the method from the earlier post to remove the "buttons" to remove the plastic covers, and, yes, I accessed it from below and mostly thru the wheel well.
Large slip joint pliers (460 Channellock) to hold the clutch by the large rivets, while loosening the shaft nut. (I could've used the method described below to loosen)
I removed the 4 mounting bolts and re-positioned the pump by the generous use of tie wraps, in order to aim the shaft back, towards the opening in the wheel well.
My snap ring pliers are a convertible, internal and external type from Snap On with changeable tips. I would recommend an external set with a small angle (10 deg.) to remove/install the snap rings. The deepest ring, holding the coil, was hard to reach with mine.
I did not need a puller, although it would have been easier when removing the pulley. I was able to do it with lube, wiping of the snout, and repeated in and out motion. (no other tools used)
Removed the coil, bench tested it just to be sure, then unboxed the new one and found it to have 3.4 ohms (vs. infinite for the old one)
When tightening the shaft nut, I had the unit remounted, and I used a square shaft screwdriver, across the rivets, to hold the clutch pulley.
The whole job took me less than 1.5 hours, and was not an unpleasant experience.
I used the method from the earlier post to remove the "buttons" to remove the plastic covers, and, yes, I accessed it from below and mostly thru the wheel well.
Large slip joint pliers (460 Channellock) to hold the clutch by the large rivets, while loosening the shaft nut. (I could've used the method described below to loosen)
I removed the 4 mounting bolts and re-positioned the pump by the generous use of tie wraps, in order to aim the shaft back, towards the opening in the wheel well.
My snap ring pliers are a convertible, internal and external type from Snap On with changeable tips. I would recommend an external set with a small angle (10 deg.) to remove/install the snap rings. The deepest ring, holding the coil, was hard to reach with mine.
I did not need a puller, although it would have been easier when removing the pulley. I was able to do it with lube, wiping of the snout, and repeated in and out motion. (no other tools used)
Removed the coil, bench tested it just to be sure, then unboxed the new one and found it to have 3.4 ohms (vs. infinite for the old one)
When tightening the shaft nut, I had the unit remounted, and I used a square shaft screwdriver, across the rivets, to hold the clutch pulley.
The whole job took me less than 1.5 hours, and was not an unpleasant experience.
I put the car away for the night and will head out tomorrow morning in search of longer snap ring pliers. I tried advance auto and Lowe's. They both sell the convertible ones like I bought from vice grip. Maybe sears or Napa would have longer ones. I knew this would be challenging for me and I was almost there, but ill have to try again tomorrow.
07-16-2012
#53
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 2007 LX A/C clutch won't engage
No shims found?
Yours could be stuck up inside the hollow shaft of the hub. Stuck in there by magnetism.
I have yet to see one of these with zero shims installed.
Do you have feeler gauges or a dial indicator setup? You have to adjust the clearance of the clutch plate as it is assembled (although if you are reusing the original plate it might not need readjustment).
Yours could be stuck up inside the hollow shaft of the hub. Stuck in there by magnetism.
I have yet to see one of these with zero shims installed.
Do you have feeler gauges or a dial indicator setup? You have to adjust the clearance of the clutch plate as it is assembled (although if you are reusing the original plate it might not need readjustment).
07-17-2012
#54
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No shims found?
Yours could be stuck up inside the hollow shaft of the hub. Stuck in there by magnetism.
I have yet to see one of these with zero shims installed.
Do you have feeler gauges or a dial indicator setup? You have to adjust the clearance of the clutch plate as it is assembled (although if you are reusing the original plate it might not need readjustment).
Yours could be stuck up inside the hollow shaft of the hub. Stuck in there by magnetism.
I have yet to see one of these with zero shims installed.
Do you have feeler gauges or a dial indicator setup? You have to adjust the clearance of the clutch plate as it is assembled (although if you are reusing the original plate it might not need readjustment).
As for the snap ring pliers..... Does anyone recommend a plier that will work? Yesterday I bought the vice grip version shown and they were too short. Then I borrowed from by brother-in-law that have adjustable prongs and they still seemed short and also too fat to get into that narrow cavity. Most stores aren't open yet but I'm going to have to find something or else I'll have to put it all back together un-fixed which would be a total shame
I'm wondering if these craftsman pliers might work? they long long and skinny.
07-17-2012
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07-17-2012
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I went to Advance Auto, Autozone, Grainger, United Central, Sears, Lowes, Tractor supply, Garrett industrial, and Napa and I can't find snap ring plier that will fit into that small area. I bought what I thought would be the best version from Sears and they still couldn't reach. The problem being that the pivot pin was too thick to get in that narrow space.
Holy cow this is frustrating!
Holy cow this is frustrating!
07-17-2012
#57
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Call a Snap-on or other professional tool dealer, they have many different snap ring pliers. They may have to order, but....
07-17-2012
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That's for sure. I hate not having the right tools. Mine were thick, similar to the channellock brand in the link. I was able to get the ring open enough to get the lower side out of the grove, then worked with the adjustable prongs in different lengths, and the hook pick tool used to remove the plastic buttons on the plastic covers, to pull on the ring. After I got the ring off, I cleaned up any nicks on the snout with a machinists stone, so that the pulley would slip back on.
Call a Snap-on or other professional tool dealer, they have many different snap ring pliers. They may have to order, but....
Call a Snap-on or other professional tool dealer, they have many different snap ring pliers. They may have to order, but....
I wonder if these would work that I saw on the Mac Tool site. http://www.mactools.com/shoponline/p...snap-ring.aspx
07-17-2012
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Now I'm in big trouble. I went to reassemble everything and the top two bolts on the compressor won't grab. They came out easily but now won't go back in.......
07-18-2012
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Here is a diagram, maybe it will help? I removed the 4 bolts circled. If you removed the bracket bolts, I haven't yet found an answer as to why they won't thread back in.
