Tracecross30

Hey to my pro mechanic..I just worked on my 02 civic put in new rings,valve seals,head gasket and got the head recondition. I drove it work pretty fine Sunday, yesterday and I drove it to work this morning and I just got off work and got in,start it and drove off across the street and it just shut off ,start up one time and never start again...anyone can come up with any solid options? It will help me a lot.this car taking too much of of me now.

An update to the post above..I make a second attempt to start it again by push started it , it started but wont keep up ,it turn off when I drove it. When I tried starting it again ,I was hearing ticking sound coming from underneath my glove box every time I try start it..

Colin42

Lots of clicking or one click?
Battery connections tight? Forget to attach the ground wires on the engine?

Tracecross30

The connections are tight.the engine is grounded. Ones I turn the key it starts clicking and the clicking is coming from under the right hand side of the dash underneath the glove box. The ticking is not very loud but you can hear it clearly. There are two relays underneath there and a silver looking metal box about 1 inch thick.look at these two relays.the sounds is coming from in this area.

Slumpertcivic

Sooooo who cleaned and retightened the two main bolts on the alternator?

Since it’s such pain *** to get too, seems lots people just tighten the adjustment arm and leave the actual bracket bolts loose.

Then alternator starts using ECU to ground some of its current and the ECU starts popping because it was never meant to handle that.

Slumpertcivic

Also the two sets of engine harness ground connections at the thermostat can cause similar issue if they are grungy/loose

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

please start checking where to post before posting.
2nd time asking.
Moved one more of your threads to the correct section.

If you can't find the correct section, to post after posting several new threads, it means you did not do much effort to search for the solutions already posted.

Tracecross30

I have an 2002 civic ex and rebuild my engine. Mine was overheating on me so j did all of this listed below.
Rings
Valve seal
Head gasket
Intake manifold gasket
Timing belt, tensioner
And thermostat
Put it back together and it fires up the first time and it's my first time go that far on a Engine,to be honest .it works fine the Sunday and I drove it about 54 miles the fallowin Monday, the Tues I drove to work, it fired up and I as I drove off about 2 semi truck length, it shut off I tried to start it and it starts and shut off, I top the starter and it starts ,idle for a little then shut off again, I start it again by push start it and start but shut off again, I top the starter and it start but,when I drove it off it died so I leave at my job..I dont know if it's the timing or the crankshaft/timing sensor or whatever the name is but its giving me hell..I kinda noticed my engine get hot quick too..Also, I can hear a click click click under my glove box whenever I tried to start it..there are two relays underneath there so I dont know if it's one of them bad or something else.

NDNV

The Main Fuel Relays could be the issue as they would cut the delivery of fuel.

Tracecross30

Fluid is going to the throttle body. I moved it and fluid was spraying out of the line.

Tracecross30

Ok. NDNA, I just got some information from the mechanic, they said its ECM that causing the problem..the connected the OB2 scan tool to it and it starts but when they disconnect it, turns off.they said I need the ECM. How to remove it from behind the glove box?

Colin42

Remove glove box, remove electrical connections, undo a couple nuts/bolts and pull it out? Or something like that. Once you get started it should be pretty easy to figure out
Make sure your battery is disconnected

Slumpertcivic

One last suggestion, check ALL of your alternator mounting bolts or your going to blow the next ECU if that was the root issue.

More than one other forum user has found they can get the car to work with blown ECU when something is plugged into OBD port.

Tracecross30

Thanks collin42 and slumpertcivic but,
The the constitutions that you collin42 mentioned is connected right but,I will double check. The mechanic said it's the that wire that hold up my hood was touching my positive terminal connection and it caustic that. How far can I drive the car with the OBD2 scanner connect to it? I'm thinking of going to the junkyard Tomorrow to get a ECM from another car to put in because I cant buy a new one at the moment.

NDNV

Make sure the used PCM is a correct match to your 2002. e.g. model, trim, auto or manual trans VTEC or not... Use the part # off your PCM.

Tracecross30

Ok.my car is manual so if I get one from a automatic it wont work?

NDNV

No won't work.

Tracecross30

Ok..I just got back from the mechanic a d he told me that i cant pull an ECM from the junkyard, wont work. It has to come already programmed and flash..is that true? Please give me some full details about this because its going to cost me over a 1000 when done and I cant afford that much..I can get one from( rockauto) for $230.00.

BrotatoChip

If you can find a Civic in the junkyard that has the same part number as your PCM then yes it will work. But you will either have to have your keys programmed into the new PCM by Honda, take the immobilizer and keys from the same car as the PCM and install into yours, or bypass the immobilizer system altogether. If you only get the PCM and nothing else then no it will not work.

Tracecross30

Ok...so I dont need to flask the ECM after I install it in my car?
i understand you very well but this what i want to ask in addition, if i go pull one from the junkyard, i might be out of luck because most 1 out of 10 cars you might find a manual and also with keys in the car. i saw some on rockauto $200+ and i think its saying must be flash after installed . tell me what you think please.

BrotatoChip

If you get a PCM with the same part number and get the keys, ignition, and immobilizer from the same car then no you will not have to flash afterwards. You would install everything into your car and it would start right up. You would not have to go to Honda to get the keys flashed but you'd have two different keys, one for ignition and your original one for the doors. You could always grab those from the junkyard too.

For the one from RockAuto you would install the module and would have to tow the car to Honda to get the keys flashed. The car would not start until this happens (unless you bypass the immobilizer). With this option you would only have to swap the PCM and will get to reuse your original keys, but you have to go get the keys flashed once it's installed.

Tracecross30

Ok.i ordered the ECM with full key system. Thanks a lot for the information. Can I get the bolts/screws to install the immobilizer back on the steering column to buy anywhere?

BrotatoChip

Yes. The bolts are a standard metric size/pitch that I cannot remember off the top of my head but I found a set at my local hardware store.

So you ordered a PCM and matching key set from a junkyard or something?

Tracecross30

Ok.no, I got me a set on Ebay of the same match with full key system. I might buy a set of keys from Amazon because it only got one key.
2002 civic ex 1.7 Lt
Vetec Manual transmission
And same numbers thats on the ECM as well.
I might just buy me a set of keys after because the key I'm getting doesn't have any remote entry.

BrotatoChip

Remote entry can be reused if you already have it. Replacing the PCM will not affect that.

Tracecross30

Ok.. help me with this issue that I'm having mitch my manual transmission..before I took it apart I never have any problems with the gears ,but now I'm having issues with 1st and 2nd gears ,I'm having trouble sometimes when it goes into gears I heard a little grinding sound, just a little and when I put it in 1st gear it doesn't goes all the way in. When I thought it's in all the way until I'm moving i heard a little grinding and slip back into neutral. Before I put the transmission on the car, I shift through all the gears and all of them were shifting pretty fine. But now I'm having these issues..I replaced all the bearings on the main shaft and secondary shaft Also.

pjb3

Assuming you rebuilt the transmission correctly, I would check the clutch master and slave cylinders and bleed them. If there is air in the system it will not fully depress the pressure plate. You can usually tell if the clutch needs to be adjusted or bled by shifting into reverse. If there is any grinding when you shift into reverse then the clutch is not releasing all the way. The synchros in the forward gears will mask the problem and just make it seem harder to shift.

Tracecross30

I'm having issues with 1st and 2nd too..
How do I bleed the clutch by myself? I dont really have any help doing these things..

pjb3

The only way to bleed the clutch or brakes by yourself is to get one of the vacuum systems designed for that. The only help you need is someone to step on the pedal and let it back up as you tell them.

It's been a long time but I kind of remember the clutch being a little difficult to bleed. If you search you can probably find others discussing what they had to do.

Tracecross30

Ok. I bled my brakes myself without anyone n it was pretty easy without any specific tools. All I did was get a clear bottle, bore a hole in the cark, push I clear tube in the hole I bored with about 1" of fluid in it so it dont suck back air when I released the pedal, each time I made 3 press on the pedal I go close the bleeding nipple and move onto the other wheel, I did so for all of them ,but the clutch maybe different .

Slumpertcivic

After 15yrs, that “brake fluid” in your clutch system likely has absorbed moisture and rust and turned into something that looks like chocolate milkshake.

Highly suggest flushing at least a quart worth of clean fluid through the system. (About 100 presses or the appropriate tool)